Delhi in a day

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The hotel bed was very comfortable after my week of battling mosquitos. Today was a day to do the highlights of Delhi. I knew there was a lot more, but in the heat I was going to try for 3 or 4 main things. I made up a a list of the Red Fort, the Lotus Temple, the National Museum, India Gate and Qutab Minar.

It was a leisurely start as I knew up to 8 hours with a a driver would be quite tiring.

I arrange a car through the hotel and within 5 minutes he had promptly turned up outside the hotel next door. I had a tourist map supplied by the Hotel with the main sights printed on it and was something I could just point at. My driver today was Mohan, who spoke very little english, but if I said the place name 3 times and said “next” he did get it. We resorted to the map a few times as I was mispronouncing the sites anyway. My translation application on the iPad has thus far proved to be a waste of time as it only works in the hotel. I will know in the next couple of weeks if the 69 pence application has been value for money.

The first sight was the Red Fort. All of these areas have semi ‘official’ parking, which costs somewhere between 20 and 50 rupees. We finally got through the local traffic and pulled onto a bit of waste ground encircled by wooden beds. The area was a main tourist area so also attracts everyone else. It is amazing what they will sell on the streets. In one there was a pile of Flip Flops that could have come straight from the beach in Kochi. Every trader maximises the space to show their wares. Very colourful, if not a bit chaotic. It was good to have Mohan with me as we had another 400 yards to walk to the entrance of the Fort and via the smelliest of underpasses. Hawkers, Sellers and wanna-be Guides were shouting at me as soon as I got in sight. They never really give up. When I write my last blog on India, please someone remind me to pick out the top 10 ‘pitches’. The final words are often ‘my name is…remember me!’

Mohan told me where to meet as he wouldn’t be going inside with me.

The Red Fort was very impressive. Although now abandoned by the Indian Army, and like all of the tourist sights, there was a big armed Army presence at the gates and inside the attraction. As for the Fort, built in the 17th Century by a Shah, this was more like a walled city. I had imagined a place like Warwick Castle but this was a massive compound. The buildings and opulence was still here and although it has been through many hands over the years and despite the plundering the key buildings remain. Looking at the inside you do get a sense of the colonial British Army as well as some very beautiful Indian decor.

I saw an Indian man taking a photo of his wife and son and I did the right thing to offer my help so that he could be in the picture too. Click, I then pointed to my camera, he smiled. I was then very surprised that his family lined up by the side of me. Click. He showed his gratitude by attempting to touch my feet, well that’s what I though he was doing. He may have just dropped his lens cap.

As you entered the fort there was a bazaar type mall of jewellery shops. Fairly laid back being that there must have been 30 to 40 shop keepers vying for the same business. I continued to amble through the complex and one museum caught my eye. It was the Museum of India’s struggle against the British. If I ignored it then it would have been disrespectful. The museum displays were a series of paintings depicting mostly the retaliation by the united India forces against the British and East India Trading Company over our time of roving in India. It really made me feel that I had done something bad and that everyone was looking at me. I think if they had asked me if I was English, I would have said ‘no, I am Dutch’ (but you never now what suffering the Dutch imposed on India as well). You do have a lot of people with Orange hair out here.

We made our way back to the Car but by this time the traffic was at gridlock. At times like this, self delegated traffic policeman guide cars down pavements or any space for that matter. I could not see a Brit driving in Delhi. It is an art. How a car of the size of a Ford Fiesta can stop an oncoming rtruck-like Indian Bus made in the 50’s is just amazing to watch. We eventually get out and then make a hasty U turn and we are up to speed for at least 150 yards. We pass the Cricket Ground where the India-Australian Test was being played and make our way over to ‘India Gate’. The Gate is a bit like the Arc de Triomphe, but not French. Dedicated to those who died during WW1 and 2.

The sun was blazing down and I had a walk around for photo opportunities. Very impressive and clean and highly secured by armed military and police. The avenue of land to both sides of the Gate is a nice open thoroughfare, in stark contrast with the rest of central Delhi. On the one side, from the President’s Residence and the Government buildings looking towards India Gate, it is quite spectacular. A bit like the Queen’s view down The Mall, but longer.

We then headed off to a Sweet Centre for a snack. Yes, fresh Ras Malai! My family know how much I like it and a Donut-type ball filled with a Pistachio centre. There must have been 100 people eating there, so very popular. I wonder what ‘popular’ really means in Delhi with a population of 12.6 Million?

Next the National Museum. You will recall that I called into the Natural History Museum in London a few weeks back. Having time on my hands I wanted to see a bit of India’s heritage. Very interesting. I wish I had a better appreciation of the Gods and their stories. Krishna seemed to be a very popular fellow who was always adorned by women.

Getting close to the final circuit although they were spaced out across the city, ‘Next’, The Lotus Temple, run by a faith which accepts all other faiths and the building is open to visitors for quiet prayer for a long as you like. The building is designed as a Lotus Flower and arches a bit like Sydney Opera House for some parts. It is at the centre of a vast manicured garden. Everyone is barefoot through the temple and it did give me a good feeling and time to reflect on a few things and attempt a prayer. On exiting, and at my meeting point, there were lots of people and lots of cars. After 10 minutes a hand appeared out the crowd. I’m also getting better at crossing the road now!

Finally, the Qutub Minar. I hope I have spelt that right, a Muslim Temple and a victory monument remains with a huge tower. I was told that the tower is now listing so they have stopped tourist from going up. With the lowering sun it lit up bright Red. There were lots of remains in courtyards dating back many centuries.

I was getting really tired and all I wanted now was to stop. On the final way back, Mohan showed me the President’s Residence, the Government Buildings and Parliament and the view down to the India Gate in the distance. Like in all other Countries the cream of governors have the finest of places to work and sleep.

Back to the hotel for a shower, not forgetting to close the curtains before entering my goldfish bowl. I then headed up to the roof top Restaurant. A group of about a dozen Australians were celebrating that they were on the verge of their first Test win in 15 games. They are always so passionate about their cricket.

With the restaurant filling up a Swiss-Italian couple Lucia and Andreas joined my table and we struck up the usual conversation around ‘what are you eating’. Lucia’s philosophy is quite sound. If you don’t know what to eat and can’t read the menu, just look at what everyone else is having and point. Lucia is German Italian (Sicilian) and Andreas is Swiss Italian. They had been travelling for 17 days around India and were going home in the morning. It was an eye opener for them too. They had looked at trying to get a flight home after 7 days but Lufthansa wasn’t playing ball. We shared stories of the litter, begging, entrepreneurs, the driving etc etc as well as their experience of having Malaria tests during the holiday. I think that Lucia was looking forward to a plate of Pasta. Lovely couple and I wish them well. Lucia is also trying out for a Master Chef programme in Italy, but I would doubt that garam masala will be in any of her recipes.

2 thoughts on “Delhi in a day

  1. Maxine's avatarMaxine

    Technology restored…..photo’s look fantastic, and the Lotus Temple does look similar to the Opera House, glad to see you in some of the photo’s, at least you are getting a sun tan, freezing temperatures in the Midlands!!

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  2. Lucia Spinella's avatarLucia Spinella

    Hello Dave, thanks for the mentioning in your blog…and just to update you…YES!! Arrived at Munich Airport I had my plate of Pasta :-). Not one of the best if we talk in technical cooking language..but after 17 days of chicken tikka, Mutton curry and lassi..it was the best plate of Pasta I’ve ever had in my life :-). Wish you a wonderful continue of your travel and we will follow you in reading your interesting-funny blog… And if once your trip will bring you to Switzerland…come and visit us on the lago maggiore 🙂 Cheers

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