Well, it starts as a really wet one today. I have made my way back to the Airport, where the Express Trains are in the basement of the complex. The wind is up and the rain is horizontal. All the airport police are wearing heavy sou’westers. A policeman enters the bus we are on and checks IDs and Passports. All highly civilised. He turns at the front of the bus, thanks everyone and then salutes. Japanese culture is really growing on me. The airport is empty as I make my way down to the basement to catch the train. Surprising as this is the main airport for Tokyo. The Ticket Office help me to get the right tickets to get to Kyoto, which will mean a change at Shinugawa. It is an easier station than Tokyo to find your platform which I gladly accept. I’ve chosen First Class for the way out to Kyoto, to top up my ‘comfort blanket’ and it is easier to get your baggage on board and the seat is reserved
All of the required details of train number and time are clearly printed on the reservation ticket. I will be on the Shinkansen (bullet train) heading towards Hiroshima. It says what time it departs and what time it arrives. When I think back to the best of what we have to offer in the UK, we pale into their shadows. I chuckled to myself watching a number of men standing in the smoking zone of the platform, topping up before going on the train. Some had pollution masks which they lowered to have a cigarette!, ???
Onboard, my seat was a really comfortable armchair, a sort of upper class airline seat. Welcomed with a face towel we are quickly and speedily on our way.
Any staff who head through the carriage bow on entry and exit. They must think I am David Cameron or maybe it’s for the guy behind me?
I had just over 2 hours on the train, which was enjoyable as you would a disney ride. The outer suburbs of Tokyo pass by and you do know you are in Japan just by looking at the roof tiles of even the most basic of houses. I have always thought of them being Green or Red ridged tiles and my perception hasn’t been let down yet. There is a lot of industry en route and the train intermittently hugs the coast line on my left hand side. And of course Mountains, lots of them. Godzilla has to live somewhere. After about 45 minutes I catch my first glimpse of blue sky, the first I have seen in 4 days. For me, blue sky is a motivator and a real pick me up. My boys know that I take lots of photos of clouds and blue skies. Maybe the weather will pick up? We enter a tunnel and then as we come out the band of blue has got bigger. The hills in the forefront are lush green and rippled. A bit like the fur on those weird looking dogs that everyone wants to own, Shitsu I think ? Not sure if that is spelt right or if I have just offended any Japanese readers. Blue skies last until we are 15 minutes from Kyoto and then it turns deep grey again, but the rain stays off.
I remember one of the tripadvisor comments that my hotel is easy to find as you just take the West exit from the station. But its all in Japanese. I resorted to finding my hotel address and asking a policemen. I am standing by the right exit as it happens, which also happens to be the left exit if you know what I mean.
As I turn, I look through the window on the first floor of the station and my Hotel is right across the street. First thing to enter into my head was, not another Kings Cross hotel as I had found in India? However, you don’t get that with Kyoto, it has a really friendly feel to the place and everything has order. People are waiting to cross the road only when the Walking sign appears, taxis queue in order, no hawkers, no cattle, no home made carts.
I settle into the hotel which is a tiny room, but to be expected, with a bathroom which is like an airline toilet with a dinky bath and shower and typically a Japanese jacuzzi toilet. We will see how that plays out in the next couple of days.
I venture back over to the Railway station for some very late lunch. The Railway building is a massive complex. I see a queue of locals waiting to get into a small Sushi bar, so I join and only have to wait a couple of minutes before I am seated. They help me with an English menu, but it is quite simple. Roughly £1 a plate for any plate, whether it be a weird fishy things or tempura.
This was the best Sushi that I have ever tasted. I managed 8 plates before I had reached my limit. Let me see if I can remember them and see if any of these appeal to you. Mostly Sushi which means they rest on a bed of sticky rice…
Cuttlefish and Cod’s Roe with seaweed
Raw Squid
Raw Shrimp
Lobster in a seafood sauce
Pressed Smoked Eel
Dried Eel
Cook Shrimp
Octopus
Crab
Oh that’s 9 isn’t!
A nice mug of Sapporo beer. Absolutely awesome.
As I had over done it a little, I went back to my room for a little siesta, which worked wonders.
I wanted to get my bearings but do something not too challenging, so I aimed for the Gion District, famous for its traditional Japanese houses and their Geisha. I was going to say Geisha girls, but that is a different thing and a slightly different more personal art form. I needed the subway. I headed into the station and looked for an information point. I followed the signs which took me back out of the station and I stood in a queue. Unfortunately it was for Bus transportation, so I went back inside and retraced my steps and signs. I could see the ticket machines and there was a button on them that said English, but it didn’t say how much to pay etc. I looked for guidance from the ticket man at the barriers, who kindly guided that it would be 210 Yen to go to the first station, but unlike the London underground, not all the lines link, so I would have to buy another ticket when I got to the next station. He looked where I was going as I had circled it in a map and he said “10 minute walk”. I took his advice and thought I would go just one leg by Subway Train and then on foot. But I was still in front of what looked like Slot Machines. Resort to logic Dave! So there are 4 colours of machines, maybe each represent a Line ? No white line, but there is a white machine…hmm. I put 300 Yen into one and then pressed the help button. He basically told me that it was for a Pass of some kind, but guided me to press the cancel button. I was thinking, how far would it be to do it all on foot ?? I move to the Slot Machine number 2, a blue one. My line was green. I entered the money, then pressed all the buttons that flashed. I won a ticket and some money in return, although it could have been my change. For an extra bit of confidence I went back to my ticket man with my winnings and said “Is this right for Shijo?” he smiled and nodded and then showed me where to put the ticket into the barrier. He had more confidence of my small ticket of about 3 x 2 centimetres going into a slot the size of a credit card and working. A light came on and I was in and the ticket appeared 2 metres away at the end of the gate. It is an interesting navigation for something so simple as getting and using a ticket, but looking at every sign and poster for direction and all you can liken it to are Mahjong pieces and you will see my challenge. Confidence for the next one, I thought. Subway train came, orderly queues to get on and we are off. I walked up the stairs to the main road and needed to ask for direction in which way to walk. The two girls thought my pronunciation of Gion was funny, but they both pointed in the same way. As I crossed a river I knew I was there, the map said the river would be there. Instantly a number of large Chinese Lanterns lined the road and off the main road dimly lit side roads held traditional houses and restaurants. I thought I must come back in the day light as well as it had some nice old wooden buildings with traditional bamboo blinds.
I walked without purpose, but keeping my route based on the main road. I weaved in an out. I spotted two Geisha up one alley, but it was too dark to get a photo. Eventually I got to the end of the main street at an intersection.
In front there was a large curvy house across the road and people were streaming in and out. I followed and it led into more traditional buildings with street stalls selling all sorts of convenience foods. It was a real party atmosphere. I continued and it seemed to move into a park, with lots of people having picnics in the dark or under temporary lighting under the boughs of Cherry Trees in Blossom. Apparently the Cherry Blossom came 2 weeks early this year which caught a lot of people out, so although I am expecting to see pink everywhere, it is probably the last week before it starts to fall. There are girls and ladies in traditional Kimono’s and they look very elegant. I continue to walk back down the opposite side of the road and into the back streets. Less traditional on this side and more with an entertainment purpose. Japanese business men were arriving in their taxis, so I guess there is a drinking house or two close-by. A Geisha with Clients strolls passed. She was carrying the main man’s briefcase and he look extremely ‘happy’ and drunk.
I made my way back to the Station and fancied a final bite to eat. Everywhere seemed to be closing up at 10pm so I ended up in a fast food eatery a couple of hundred yards from my hotel. It served Noodle and Rice dishes. Pictures looked good, but I then saw how they ordered. They went to a vending machine, selected a meal and then entered the money straight into the machine for a ticket. I was puzzled in what to order as the pictures on the vending machine were not that helpful. “Do you have an English Menu?” And one appeared. Sorted ? No. I went back to the server and said I would like this, pointing to Beef Udon Noodles. She nodded then pointed back at the Vending machine. A girl came to my rescue. I pointed to the English Version of the Noodles and the picture and then to all the buttons on the vending machine and said which one? She had trouble finding it too, but I ordered something. It is at this stage that I would like to say that a Subway ticket appeared…But I had a receipt for something, which arrived as a Misu broth, a plate of cold noodles and finely sliced spring onions. I slowly mixed then and did my best not to slop the juices over my Khaki trousers. A drink accompanied this, which looked like a light green cordial. I have no idea what the taste was, but everyone had one. One for the internet I think. Tea??
I think I can crack it next time or at least just copy the guy in front. Well, first night in Kyoto and very content.
Dave's Sabbatical 