Author Archives: David Dugdale

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About David Dugdale

Business Transformation Consultant

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Well, after all the time spent cogitating it is time to go back towards Corporate life, but this time under my own steam looking at the business things that really interest me and I believe others will value.  My Consulting company is now launched under the simple title of Dugdale Consulting and my business website is at dugdaleconsulting.com

I can’t wait for the next travelling adventure, but for now I need to appease my Bank Manager.

 

 

Reflection

Well, 100 days of travel, 39,700 miles in the air, 27 Hotels, 2 Deserts and a 38 hour day, with temperatures from 43 to 107 degrees F. It really has come to that point. I am looking out of the window at the UK rain and it’s time to reflect on what I feel has just happened. Despite doing stuff that I wanted to do I perversely didn’t feel at any time that I was on holiday. I travelled, check…I definitely chilled, check…Did I work out what I want to do when I grow up?…Hmmm, a bit.

Looking back to my first Country, the thought of fulfilling on travelling for three and half months after the ups and downs of India was in question, but by the time I got to the USA, the days were just flying by so quickly. I have had so many well wishes from strangers and from friends and family alike that it just pushed me on.

I have flicked through my photo’s to pick out some of the ones where I remember an emotion and are placed in my gallery selection. To be very honest, I have chosen them as memory joggers to where I was, what I was doing and how I was feeling. I promise to bore you all over the next few months with more and more detail, as your questions will open up my memory even further. I am open for dinner invites!!!

Each place had its own attraction, a bit of history, an event or a scenery moment, but in the main it was the people who I had fleeting or in some cases long conversations which gave me the long lasting memories. There were quiet times, but I met some really interesting people from a number of walks of life who were getting on with their lives and I was that person just travelling through. I had some lovely chats with folks about values, culture and behaviours, which you all know from my tweets is close to my heart. What was comforting was that these same people were striving to answer the same questions too.

So let me do a whistle stop through the places and in some cases people moments that left me with a picture for each Country. Hindsight is always clearer with more time to think about stuff.

Well, it all kicked off in Kerala in India. I think I managed to see a little of Indian country life which is a million miles away from the way we live in the West. The food was excellent in the South and the North, except for fresh water which they do not have. Last night I watched a Rick Stein programme about Southern Indian cooking and the tastes came back to me in seconds. The frenetic pace of the Indian people on the streets was only closely rivalled in a couple of other places on my entire trip. Not sure they know how to run their infrastructure without high levels of bureaucracy, but I guess that’s India. It would have been great to have a companion in India, so one could look for the evacuation signs and the other to read the map. And let’s just leave driving as mystical as the Indian Rope trick!

Hong Kong defeated me on two counts. I should have arrived on any other day of the year except Good Friday and the weather could have been more favourable. I didn’t quite get the Hong Kong Island skyline photo that I wanted to, but there was enough to convince me that they have one and I would need to come back again to see it properly. The pleasing thing was that despite the volumes of Chinese people flooding into Hong Kong, it still had that British Colony feel.

Oh Japan!, definitely my highlight of Asia. These people are beautiful. During the week I think I spoke to one Japanese person as they do not generally speak English. However, the way they act and behave and the way they live their lives, what I saw in Kyoto, is an example. They serve well and they have a deep culture of values…hmm where have I heard something about that? For food, the sushi was outstanding and the only downside was my ignorance for formal meals that I tried but for which I could not identify what I was eating. However trying new tastes was one of the things that was going to excite me while away from the UK.

Then there was China. I think you all got a feel that while Beijing had some amazing attractions, its people act in a behaviour which was 180 degrees away from what I advocate in my twitters. I may be a bit jaundiced by them leaving me at the Great Wall of China, or allowing Prostitutes to approach me morning ’til night (Beijing Zoo was a classic) and they have no concept of pedestrian crossings or what to do with saliva. I would like to see this place 20 years from now to see if they change or whether they convince the rest of the world to spit.

Singapore was a step up from China and a haven for me just when I needed it. My memory will be based on a couple of things, the Singapore Chilli Crab and the Buddhist Monk with the Blackberry. The Crab was one of the most delicious things that I tasted on my whole trip, at least until I get to another place and remember another dish, and the Monk?…it was just so funny. Oh, and, and, and Singapore Airlines………..

When I turned the corner into Australia and the ability to converse with locals this was a real high. It was comical that every place that I went to had different views on the other Cities and Towns. It was a bit like hearing nominee pitches for the 2013 City of Culture. I was guided to spend less days in one place and more in another and the best location changed from opinion to opinion. Lots of people said avoid Sydney, but I loved the place and hope to return there soon, plus the Great Ocean Road and Rottnest…and the Red Centre. Australia was definitely a place to ‘stand and stare’. Each stop off point afforded me friendships that I will treasure as being part of the trip and my purpose for travelling.

And on to Rarotonga in the Cook Islands. This place was so laid back. My location next to the beach was so quiet and relaxing that I did have a lot of time to do some thinking, but the crashing of the waves on the reef often sent me to sleep while I was lying back, so it wasn’t as productive as I had hoped. I have 3 memories from Paradise, the Wedding on the beach, the Snorkelling and the Polynesian dancing.

And finally a month in the USA, which I was pleased I got the chance to see some awesome things and a little culture. America, a bit like Australia, was also a place to chat with people. Meeting a fellow traveller in San Francisco or just bumping into someone at a Bar in Boston and chewing the fat over the sport on the TV or the depth of the Snow in winter. Each conversation meant something to me and I will remember these people as being a real part of my sabbatical. As for other highlights, understanding how we lost the Colony was really interesting and the Cannoli in Boston put icing on the cake. Texas showed lots of heart and everyone wanted to hug me (it’s good when someone wants to hug you!) they are really friendly and “pruddy” people. And Nashville, Boot Dancing Hat Lifting Nashville, which exceeded my expectations for music and has left so many lyrics in my head. And I can’t miss out the Grand Canyon as a true wonder of this world. Oh, the cultural bits, Fort Worth’s Kimbell Art Museum and of course New York’s MoMA. I think I am a bit more sophisticated than when I left our shores, although someone will have to explain some of the arty pieces, especially the Pink Plank against the wall.

So how am I feeling about stuff and where do I go next with life? For a couple of weeks now I have been trying to gather my thoughts and define on the ‘what next’, but I did have a bit of an epiphany moment a couple of days ago. All of the things that I have been doing and observing, standing and staring, conversations with strangers and friends and the travel experiences have all been contributing to the answer. It’s just that I didn’t know they were contributing.

There is a big blue world out there and lots to see and do. My shallow skimming of what’s out there has given me a perspective of things that I hadn’t had before. Yes, I have done lots of travelling in my life, but I think I’ve been a bit blindfolded. The sabbatical has set a direction to finish my working life based on something that I want to do, with the values and culture that match what is Me. I now know that it is really important to be the person that I want to be.

So that’s it for my Blog, except for my spell checks in my archives, the Book, the Film and the Musical. I hope you have enjoyed the ride. You know, the world ain’t slowin’ down!

I need to do this again one day.

The Big Apple

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To be honest with you all, I have re-written the start of this post a few times as I lost the flow of events about New York, my final destination, but with the boys being around, it whizzed by and they have to be my excuse. So, this is how I remember it…

As we made our way up to New York on Wednesday…no, it was Tuesday…(another delayed flight unfortunately), you could see the weather changing and the touch down at New York’s JFK was in heavy rain. Such a contrast to my Southern States venture as I had been getting used to being bathed in Sunshine not Water.

Having Tom and Jon as travelling companions was an added bonus as the thinking was being shared and decisions much easier.

After a quick train ride into the city, we were down into the City on a Friday evening, in rush hour and in a thunderstorm. The ‘decision’ was made to walk the ‘few’ blocks as the traffic was all static anyway. Working against the crowds wanting to go to the station and also avoiding all the tourists using every bit of shelter to avoid the rain, was a pain, but we were led by our lead Guide…Tonto…well Tom who kept the pace and run the lines between each of the pedestrian crossings at the end of each of the blocks. The few blocks was actually 13 blocks which in American terms is a bit more than a stroll. However, with his lead we were soon there and wringing ourselves off in the Lobby of the Paramount Hotel, just off Times Square.

The Paramount is another one of the up and coming boutique hotels that does things funky. What that means is that they turn the lighting down to dim, spray the hotel with ‘atmosphere’ which is the sort of thing you get in the Abercrombie and Fitch stores (think of a choking dust, the sort of thing you would get in the loft of an old house mixed with a vanilla room freshener), then add some music played directly from a live DJ, looking down from a first floor window to the reception below, a bit like a modern-day court musician.

All checked-in, we felt our way to the lifts and then used the braille buttons inside to select our floors. This was a New York Hotel in a prime spot just off Times Square, so I wasn’t expecting greatness from our rooms. I was in a small room by myself, which was more akin to a Japanese Capsule Hotel, but funky, so I guess that was good for me? the Boys shared a larger room with a view, so made no time in holding back their laughter at my suite. But then again Funkiness would override our stay and I had dunmoanin for the day. I worked out where I could place my Bag to be the most efficient for walking to and from the Bathroom and I was done. And the view?… X…”I’m sorry Dave, that is not one of our top 5 answers…” Thank god I like arty stuff and funky is like art?? (to be questioned in a few days).

This is the City that never sleeps so it was important for us to have a walk out to get a bite of dinner and to do some people and light watching. Yes, Light watching. If you haven’t seen Times Square before, most people look up rather than at their feet as the massive adverts on the buildings are quite amazing. You can’t help but feel excited about New York when you see Times Square.

You will also never starve in New York. Quite the opposite…so we didn’t, and a nice little Italian meal finished off the night. I managed a single glass of Merlot, Jon managed nothing as we were still a bit sluggish from the night before. As for Times Square other than the Lights and the Yellow Taxi’s, anything goes! Not sure why nipples have to be hidden by band-aid plasters when the rest of your body is naked and spray in silver paint, but fairly liberal all the same. Everyone is trying to hack a living out here and they try so hard. An old guy approached us and asked if we knew how to tell the difference between a Male and Female M&M..”one has nuts!”. Not sure what he was selling though.

So evening one over and back to the Hotel for a comfy nights sleep, in the dark, in my capsule…I wonder if the book would have sold as many copies and become an Oscar-winning film if it was titled ‘The room without a view’.

Wednesday’s weather was a complete change and it would get hotter and hotter through the week. The sky was a clear blue and the whole place looked different. It was also quite fresh as the rain had dampened down a bit of the haze that New York gets. Times Square changes through the day, just as the Red Rocks in Uluru or the Grand Canyon change their colours in the sunshine. In bright sunlight the buildings make you feel like you are in the great outdoors surrounded by huge mountains and at night it is as if you are in a huge room with all the lights turned on and the TV blaring.

I guess we headed out by 10am for some Pancakes at a Restaurant that Tom (don’t forget he is Tonto) had sniffed out on a previous trip to New York. They were absolutely yummy. As a Pancake connoisseur I really can taste the subtle changes in milk, eggs and flour, honestly. Out onto the streets everywhere is crammed with thousands of people and taxi’s are whizzing or beeping their horns up and down the avenues. It is funny, the first time you hear a car horn or a siren you look around to find it, after 10 minutes you just ignore it…This is New York, it’s loud and it’s in your face. We were milling around the shops and just taking in everything New Yorker style. Tonto guided us up to Central Park after various detours looking for shops. Enjoying New York means, Hot Dogs from street vendors, drinks when you are thirsty and simply just taking it all in. A trip to the Zoo, again!, was a nice attraction and good fun just because it was there. Central Park was heaving with Bikini clad girls taking good opportunity of the great conditions. Everyone’s relaxed…this is a really cool place. I’m saying ‘cool’ too often in my diction and something I must work on. The conversations with the boys just bounced back and forth, an enormous amount of making fun out of one another which is par for our course and the odd bit of philosophy, which then got debated. Tonto would love to live out here, I would love to visit him.

Our evening was probably the highlight of our stay. We went off to see the New York Yankees baseball team who were playing the Los Angeles Dodgers. It was really quite exciting. We got there early to take in the Ground to snap a few pictures and have a Hotdog and a Beer. A mortgage later (even the regulars moan at the prices they get charged) we were sitting in the gods with some of the locals watching the Yankees get slaughtered, much to the abuse of their loyal fans. I am not too sure of the rules, but it is a bit like a man’s version of Rounders with better uniforms. The passion shown by the whole crowd at the start of the game to national anthem was special and standing looking at the flag you feel part of it, if for a Brit, 250 years too late. A great night.

Taking in New York challenges all the senses. First there are the sweet smells from the cart vendors and the vile smells that come out the ground or are distributed by the few police or carraige horses that trot up and down the streets (not exactly like Delhi) and the din out on the streets whether they be people calling out, the odd musician or just people shouting. New Yorker’s do have loud voices and aren’t shy at using them. And there is just what the eyes see. In The centre of Times Square if you just stop and stare for a while, you will notice that everyone is doing the same, stopping and staring. Big screens of adverts flashing 24 hours a day are as fascinating as a Broadway Play, Colourful characters roam the streets as Super Hero’s or just some weird or risque costume. You don’t need depth of thinking in New York you just have to accept it for what it is and let the senses do their job. I sometimes feel that I shouldn’t be a fan of this type of City, but as you look and listen it just draws you in.

Our journey downtown to the Financial District and the obligatory passing of the rebuilding of Ground Zero, gives you a sense that things are back to normal. The streets are full of tourists and business people alike, especially at lunch time, but the tall buildings are as beautiful as a range of mountains in their own way. We caught the short ferry across to New Jersey where you get a full appreciation of the NY sky line from Upper to Lower Manhattan. I was a bit irritated that Jon’s iPhone produced a panoramic photograph in seconds which my Olympus (or my ability) couldn’t deliver. While we were out there I have to mention Deli’s. New York does Deli’s exceedingly well. I am not sure how they make money on their sandwiches that bulge with content and flavour at pretty low prices. The New Jersey sandwich of Italian Meatballs with Tomatoes and Peppers was just wonderful. Which was marginally better than the massive Pastrami and Mustard sandwich of the day before. All you need is the confidence to order something sensible before the server works out that you are a novice to ordering and shouts to the next in line.

So what are the other fillers that we have been doing? Well the Finals of the NBA basketball reached the pinnacle this week. Tied 3 games all, Miami Heat and San Antonio Spurs had a nail-biting finish which we shared on TV with Americans cheering for both sides at an Irish Bar, where else? It lasted almost 3 hours, seems like Americans like the number 3, and we survived on Beer and a shared plate of Irish Stew and Mash…what a sufferance. This was a late night so the next days breakfast went back even further. As a City which never sleeps, it doesn’t really matter when you drift in and out of its fun and bright lights.

I can’t quite remember the full details of Friday and Saturday. What I can remember is the Heat and Humidity. We have had some great weather. Oh I remember how we finished the Friday. We headed up to New York’s Dave and Busters and played games until Tom had enough points to win a basketball. Good fun and although not strictly a cultural event, was really enjoyable.

Central Park on Saturday was great. We took the sweaty subway up to about midway through the Park. It is a very big Park. Everyone was out. On bikes, skates, skateboards, playing Basketball, playing American football, playing guitars, frisbees were flying around and the grassy hills were coated with prostrate sun bathers. It was a really cool, albeit hot, place to be. But our day was coming to an end for the Boys had to head off to the Airport.

My consolation for Saturday night and now that I was once again the Lone Ranger, with Tonto and Silver (Jon had to be one of the 3!) on their way back to the UK, was to go back to the Irish Pub for another bowl of Irish Stew, all to myself and to chat with anyone who wanted to chat.

On Sunday the heat and humidity went sky-high, but I was determined to get out to snap some photo’s and to do something a bit ‘cultural’. For photo’s I found the streets of New York with the groups of darting Yellow Cabs fascinating. It is a bit like the Red Bus thing in London and maybe the few artists who have painted scenes like these before. For real culture, I then headed off to the Museum of Modern Art or MOMA for short. The MOMA was loaded with the works of some of the 20th Centuries big name in art. I was amazed down in Fort Worth and here I was similarly aghast with both familiar names and the volume. Andy Warhol’s ‘Marilyn Munroe’ and his Cans of Campbell’s Soup paintings were some of the ones which I had seen for years on TV, but the volume and quality of the Monet’s, Picasso’s and Cezanne…wow…plus a biggy..another Van Gogh oh and, and, and…it was just like that at every turn.

Now I see these artists as poets with paintbrushes, but what I don’t get are the artists that produce things like, the Pink Plank leaning up a wall, a bicycle wheel attached to a wooden stool or the minimalist paintings of a single colour or no colour on canvas…hmm, I believe I am missing something here. I think if Michelangelo had seen such pieces he might have been inspired to white washed the Sistine Chapel ceiling, finish early and pop off for a vino.

So, amazed at both ends of the spectrum (those that respected the spectrum and those that worked off the Dulux paint fobs) I had had my cultural moment and my time in New York was complete.

And my trip out to the Airport was one of mixed feelings. The last port of call, but the thought of sleeping in my own bed. I’ll leave the balance of thought to my final Post.

Nashville, Cowboy Hats and Cowgirl Boots!

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It had got to that part of the trip where I was to meet up with the boys, so my flight up from Austin was a pleasant one. Transfer from the Airport was simple and fast, but my hotel wasn’t ready. There had been a major flood on the 15th Floor so there were huge pipes dangling down the outside when I arrived. No real problem so they shipped me to a Hotel 100 yards away for the night.

So I’m in Nashville and it doesn’t disappoint, live music in the bar of even this modest hotel. The only thing I couldn’t do was unpack as I was moving again in the morning.

So after a little bitching session with the Hotel over the Boys room I was set up for their arrival which would be in the evening, Tom thinks I am moanin’ too much (I think that I’m just a bit tired from the travelling), and ready for a venture down to Broadway, the place to be for music in Nashville.

It must have been about 11am when I hit my first bar. Two guys blasting out Country on a stage and as I looked at my watch my principle of no alcohol before 12pm had to be broken. It was real foot tapping stuff! I was conscious of time and alcohol consumption but to be honest I could have stayed in there all day, but with the need to be in a good condition for the Boys arrival I called a halt at 3pm. Walking up and down Broadway which is the main street in Nashville, the music just rang out into the street and the cowgirl boots were everywhere! This is the home of Country.

I arranged the Airport shuttle bus to pick me up and he apologised that he would need to call at a few Hotels in a loop before we could get underway. I was the only one on the bus so we had a good chat from hotel to hotel, but no one got on. At each he would dart into reception do his check for passengers and run back and get off. As we got to the final one he parked behind a sister bus, ran into the hotel, ran back and then we were off. Not exactly, he had got back into the wrong bus and drove it off a 100 yards up the road until he realised that I wasnt answering his conversation. I was watching and howling with laughter at this, but so was he when he got back to me.

I was still 3 hours early for the flight as the boys were on a delayed flight from New York.

Sitting at the arrivals lounge, plane after plane was delvering those ‘home coming’ moments where Mom or Dad was being met by the kids. Great to watch. When you see this it reminds you of the opening scene from Love Actually and these great words…

“Whenever I get gloomy with the state of the world, I think about the arrivals gate at Heathrow Airport. General opinion’s starting to make out that we live in a world of hatred and greed, but I don’t see that. It seems to me that love is everywhere. Often, it’s not particularly dignified or newsworthy, but it’s always there – fathers and sons, mothers and daughters, husbands and wives, boyfriends, girlfriends, old friends. When the planes hit the Twin Towers, as far as I know, none of the phone calls from the people on board were messages of hate or revenge – they were all messages of love. If you look for it, I’ve got a sneaky feeling you’ll find that love actually is all around.”

Then my turn, I hadn’t seen Jon and Tom for 3 months and it was excellent!

It was Friday night and the Boys were frazzled from the flights and the delay, so a quick meal, a bit more Music in our own Hotel and bed.

Saturday, Tom was pinging me at 7am. Those Brits who travel to the USA are always up so early and we were out in search of breakfast almost straightaway. My plan for Nashville was to be that we would be listening to lots of country music and having a few beers. Now here are some statistics, in our party 66% like Country Music, but 100% of us tipped the musicians for the next three days. Luckily for Tom, my Country agnostic, most bars had sport on huge TV’s or he had his iPhone playing games and the US Golf Open was being played.

We wandered slowly up the bars and managed to get to about 9pm with a short break. Saturday music was excellent. The volume and quality goes up a notch. The Cowgirl boots increased and the girls got “pruddier”. Jon and I were in our sweet spot, but novices to Country compared to many of those around us. Finishing off Saturday with some good Tennessee food and a fairly early night.

Sunday was much the same but we did walk around the main highlights of downtown and toured the Country Music Hall of Fame Museum. Awesome, even for novices and very interesting. Back into the bars and a few more bands and singers that were just of excellent quality. It surprises me that TV talent shows produce average quality compared to this. Another BBQ dinner and sunday was done.

I was expecting Monday to be quiet and it was at first! The lunchtime sessions in our favourite bars, the Honky Tonk Central and Tootsie’s gave some really professional music and to think they survive on tipping is quite something. A lesser experience was the Crazy Horse, which Tom likened to a UK holiday camp, especially as lots of boot clad children learned their ‘4 step’ in the interlude. Meal done, we were off. We should have slowed down there but with Music comes liquid and more Music. Our last day was to finish with some of the finest music at Tootsie’s with a Concert style atmosphere in one of the City’s smallest but well known bars.

This was one big friendly fest with endless Country Music and most people in a similar mindset.

So that was our Nashville bit. I would definitely head back this way, especially after 66% of us invested in Cowboy Hats!

And for Tuesday, we were off to New York to take a bite out of the Big Apple. To be a slightly more sedate day as my head and definitely Jon’s were heavy with our partying of Monday.

Welcome to Texas, how ya’ll doin’ ?

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Well as I landed in Austin, I got a feeling of being in a different State. Girls with boots and Guys with hats. Welcome to Texas, how ya’ll doin? (How are you). My bag was quickly off the luggage belt and I was soon in the Hotel bus being accompanied by a lively Harvard Student, Taryn, who had just graduated and was moving to Austin for her first real job. She was good entertainment over a beer in the evening, as she was a mix of Chicago, Los Angeles and Boston, a keen footballer and a bright Harvard student, excellent.

Before I got into the bus I saw a vending machine in the Airport that I had never seen before, a Bouquet Machine. I had heard that Texan’s were gentlemen and knew how to treat their women just right, and they had everything at their disposal to satisfy their ladies after a flight, Yeehaw!

So the plan was that I would have a day in Austin, drive over to Dallas for a few days to meet up with some BT colleagues and to get a feel for the Texas landscape as I have done with some of the other States and then back to continue my journey from Austin Airport. For Austin, there were two things that I had on my very simple afternoon and evening agenda; 1. Music and a Beer and 2. a Steakhouse with some Texan food. Nice an easy for a scorching hot Saturday. I had done a little research on some of the popular locations, and a lot of activity happened on a main road ‘6th Street’, so I got dropped off by the Cab driver at the end of the Street and I was going to go struttin’ and listen out for the music. Well before I got struttin, I was on my knees recovering my sunglasses that I knocked off my head getting out the cab and they bounced under the car.

My first stop off was to one of the most well know Hotels in Austin, The Driskill Hotel. It is a grand old Hotel, but reputed for its music. As I entered there was a lot of activity going on in the foyer, with a huge floral decoration being constructed. I made eye contact with a Manager to make sure I was in the right place for some music. Unfortunately, not on this day. A major wedding was to take place and the party had booked out the whole hotel, but he pointed to the bar and said it was open for drinks. This was fortuitous as I meet up with a couple of delightful people, Mike who was from New Orleans and a friend of his who was showing him around town, Becky who had great Cowgirl boots and a very friendly Texan welcome. We started talking travel as usual and had a really pleasant conversion, which added another item to my agenda, “You must see the Bats, they come out every night”, yes I would. On the way out I couldn’t resist a photograph with the Boots, and Becky and of course Mike, with the flora tribute in the background. One thing I will always remember is that New Orleans has a drive-thru Margarita service. Some States just know how to party! I would catch up with them again on the Austin bridge after the Bats had flown and share a few more moments, also joined by Mike’s daughter. To me they epitomised the Southern States and something that I would experience time and time again in the next few days. They treated me like one of their friends immediately and I appreciated it too, so if they are reading, thanks guys and I hope we meet up again one day.

With one beer inside me to get the limbs moving I did a quick tour of the bars and the sounds coming out onto the streets. Sometimes you can’t work out whether a bar has live music or just that they are playing good music. So, being polite, as I walked in on the first bar and the band was not yet on, I just took in another bottle and chewed the fat with others around the bar. But as you sit and sip, you then see movement and hear sounds that pin point the live music in other bars as most have large open windows and doors. So, my next 3 bars were spot on and the changing musicians were good too, playing a range of things from Country, Honky Tonk, Blues and Rock. Simple surrounds, a few choice of beers and everyone listening to the band. Perfect. And with a few odd characters that have probably been roadies in their times, where the afternoons drinking probably started the night before. This was exactly what I was looking for. No. 1, tick.

Now before I had too much beer, I had to eat and with some guidance I was pointed to a restaurant a few blocks away called ‘Moonshine’, a steakhouse. When in Rome?

After choosing a nice steak, the order came and with the normal sides of Sweet Potatoes and a number of tasty but unhealthy fried things etc, but I was asked if I needed anything else. Yes, can I have some English Mustard. Sorry we don’t carry that. Do you have Horseradish? Yes! and off the girl trots to the kitchen to return with a small bowl of shredded dry horse radish, just like you would with grated carrot. A bit odd, but as I had asked for it I mixed some mayo in with it and ate it. The Steak was as soft as warm toffee and full of flavour.

As I got outside the sun was beating down, so there was only one thing to do and that was to find another bar and another band. In the next one, I had a chat with a girl who was playing beer pong with her friend and we struck up a conversation over Texas, travel and why here?. The usual Texan warm greeting, but as she went off she gave me a hug (all Texan’s have been hugging me, I could get use to that) and said “can I just ask one more thing hanging on the English accent, “can you say F***, S*** and A*** ?” Not being one to be unfriendly I did, she laughed out loud and left. Bizarre but another friendly Texan repaid in kind.

By 7.30pm I noticed the sun dropping so headed to the Bridge a short walk away to see the Bats. The viewers started to mount and after an hour it was dark. Boats had been congregating under the bridge too with lots of twitchers (I assume like bird watchers, although they could have been Bat Men and Women). I couldn’t see anything for a few minutes until a lad by the side of me pointed to an area where they were passing by a little light and there were thousands, tiny, but in masses. So number 3 completed, I walked back up with my new New Orlean friends of earlier and then back onto 6th Street. Wow, how it had transformed. There must have been 10 times the people and 5 times the volume and choice booming out onto the Street. I lasted for about an hour and called it a night. Austin is a cool City and maybe a taste for what we might get in Nashville.

Sunday I arranged a car and headed for Dallas. First mistake, I should have flown. I think it was a Chris Rea song that said that Texas had ‘roads went on forever’ and how right he was. Dallas, and I would find Fort Worth, is one big road works and an amazing complex of Freeways that travel up into the skies at any opportunity (not sure if they always come down). I would love to be the man who supplies the concrete. However, my 3 hour trip took 5 and a half hours and the views from the main route the I35 gave away nothing of Texas as it is so flat and a simple tree line hid everything. Funny though, when I got to Dallas and the inner city Freeways took over I had a perverse excitement of being on some of the overpasses, as it was ‘America’ and their love of Cars is clearly shown here. I think that a small economy engine would serve to run the air conditioning in some of the Texan Gas guzzler trucks that bullied the roads.

I forgot to add that I had Sat Nav, which was as useful as a Pork Chop at a Bar Mitzfah. It wasn’t until late on the second day that I saw the settings were wrong and it was not taking me the quickest route, but even with that corrected it could not cope with the roadworks.

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Monday I headed in a round about way to the centre of Dallas to see the JFK Museum which superbly articulated the events of his death in 1963. I have to say that this is one that I find hard to use any humour, as is my usual style. Sue and I used to talk about JFK, as it was the first thing that emotionally moved her when she was 5 years old. I didn’t have the perspective of the build up to being president and what happened that day, but the museum did that. To see the video footage and then walk out into the road where it happened and see the building and maybe the grassy knoll where he was assassinated is quite something. And his history as a sponsoring president to real improvements in and outside of the America was remarkable and probably sealed his fate.

After a short interlude for a Mexican lunch, I headed to the Information Centre for some advice of what to look at in Dallas. It was 97F outside so I only wanted a couple of ideas, but a studious Information Assistant flattened out a map and started circling things. Just for context, Texas is the land of Republicans (JFK was a Democrat) but they have had a couple of notable Presidents from the Bush Family. So the Texan assistant rings a circle around a building and says “this is the New President George Bush Library, it is new so we haven’t got any leaflets yet, but (writing down the address for me) if you want to go on the internet for details, type in Dubya, Dubya, Dubya dot…”. I said that that was quite ironic and started laughing, but she didn’t quite understand my humour, so I bit my lip and sunk my head in shame.

I did whiz around the Old Courthouse Museum to get a sense of the Dallas and Texas origins and its famous and infamous people, just see the photos. Norah Jones who has been one of my travelling companions in my earphones grew up in Texas and is the daughter of Ravi Shankar. All very interesting and giving me a bit of context of this amazing State and the people.

That evening I caught up with a work colleague Kathy and her husband Jim as we shared a very lovely evening of travel stories and food and a Steak which took me twice as long to eat than them as I was in talking mode. As we left the restaurant Kathy handed me an Apple Pie that she had promised me 6 months ago which was to serve as my breakfast the next day…delicious. America, Texas, Apple Pie? what more…

Next day, at the advice of Kathy and Jim I headed for the more cultural bit of Texas, Fort Worth and a couple of few museums.

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The second museum was the Kimbell Art Museum and wow. When I entered it was just like many other galleries, but as I went up to one of the first pieces on the wall I did a double take of the artist. It was by Michelangelo. He only painted 4 pieces and this Museum owned the only one in the USA. But as I started walking around, the names just rolled off one after the other. Monet, Cezanne, Rembrandt and one in particular Eduard Munch! But the gallery was very laid back with Curators giving guidance, not just securing the paintings and sculptures. Oh and I missed the Picasso’s and the Caneletto. This was really an amazing gallery.

From this to a quick hop across town to the Stockyards. Fort Worth is a Cattle settlement and this is an area of preservation to the cowboy and cow town. Sitting on a saddle seat in a saloon takes you back, for me back to a holiday two years ago in Jackson, Wyoming, where Jon and I drank amongst the Bikers.

With all of the Cities in Texas I have really just skimmed the surface. Next time I am here I will spend a lot more time to get to see and know the place.

I raced back to my Hotel and then back to the BT Office in Irving to meet up with another colleague, Vance. The roadworks were horrendous and the Sat Nav was just playing with me. At one point by the Dallas-Forth Worth Airport, I found myself on the edge of the airfield watching the planes landing and my Sat Nav showed a Car in a Green Field. I high tailed out of there before the homeland security people joined me.

Vance took me out to a Texas BBQ restaurant, Lockhart’s, in the burbs somewhere, where the beef brisket was just awesome. Sadly I couldn’t finish the brisket that was recommended or the Smokey Beans and Pickles so took a doggy bag for breakfast. That was to be one of the nicest breakfasts (The smokey beans with pulled meat and chillies was incredible) I have had in years and finished off with the last mouthful of Home Made Apple Pie…God Bless America…In Calories We Trust.

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So, that was me done for my time in Texas, but I had one last stop off on the way back to Austin. In the Man versus Food TV programmes, Adam Rickman visited a Donut shop in Texas and tried some fresh, melt-in-your-mouth, donuts. Enter, the ‘Round Rock Donut House’. The staff were amazed that I had heard about the place in the UK, but Jon and Tom will know it from the repeats that we see. And the Donuts…Two Round Rock Caramelised, one Baverian Eclair with Chocolate and the same without Chocolate. They were fresh and warm and did exactly what Adam said, they melted in my mouth as I ate all 4 before hitting the road again.

So how can I sum up Texas? The Hospitality was as warm as the Sun and the Girls were as sweet as the Donuts. I would like a superlative for the Cow Girl boots, but they will just have to stay in my head. I will be back again to excess in some of this again!!!

Boston Cream

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Let me start my introduction to Boston with the Ladies of Mike’s Pastry on Hanover St in the ‘little Italy, North End’ district of Boston who summed up the City for me inside 20 minutes, Welcoming, Friendly, Sweet Product and beyond my expectation, and the Cannoli just like their hospitality was excellent, thanks Girls! And thanks for the education that a ‘Flat White’ is a Can of Paint in Boston!!

Well Boston is where our American colonial demise kicked off, so I had to make my way to see what we did and do a bit of history digging. I would imagine that any 7 year old american would out-do my incredible depth and knowledge of the events, so in case I ever meet a child in a head to head quiz I was adamant that I should be a bit more learned.

The flight up from Phoenix was delayed by an hour but generally uneventful. My successful use of airmiles has saved me an absolute bundle of money in the USA but I wasn’t feeling guilty being in First Class and letting the Patriots (the name for those that didn’t want British Rule) sit at the back of the plane. There is a lot of legal stuff surrounding the independence of the USA, but one point that I had remembered from business school was Cavaet Emptor (buyer beware) but as I like to think of it, ‘nothing comes without a little bit of pain’. Where was I, oh yes, reclining in my big seat in First Class!

On booking this leg of the trip I had left it really late and as there were lots of events going on in Boston, I couldn’t get a room in the City itself so had to go for one that was about 15 minutes by subway and a 10 minute walk.

My idea of education was going to come from a Tour, but this time on foot rather than on a bus. I slept in a bit as I was suffering with a little jet lag (poor thing you say?) and I had stuffed myself on a really thick Lobster Bisque in the Hotel with some Sweet Potato chips the night before. Boston is all about lobster, so I am going have to sample dishes a few times while I am here.

I like directions when they work and the one to the Subway to get into Boston given by the hotel was spot on and the ticket machine was quite simple to navigate, a good job as there were no staff there to help me anyway. The bit I didn’t know was where I actual was. I was staying at a Hotel called ‘Adams’ in Quincy and the Subway Map had 3 Stations, Quincy, North Quincy and Quincy Adams, but the platform didn’t have a name plate that I could see. This would be important information for getting home, so I wouldn’t leave it too late. Turns out that I was in North Quincy through a bit of luck after spotting a restaurant I’d past on my walk to the station.

Anyway…to my tour. The subway dropped me right in the Centre of Boston and next to a large tourist office. A large Afro-American guy was outside bellowing out about a tour in full period costume, who was to be my Guide and an excellent one at that. He positioned his ethnic roots in perfect detail and his character as a part of the real story of Boston and his age of some 250 years old. He led a group of about 25 of us through the streets with lots of humour and reference to my representing the problem side of the equation (there were 3 Brits). We stopped off at points to fuel the story of the British settling and governance of the colony and the events that produced the split and the signing of the declaration of independence. This is the whole reason why the Americans celebrate Independence Day on the 4th of July each year and the British celebrate Good Riddence Day (only kidding, these people were all British and some of the things that they were disputing then are still issues today).

The main characters from Boston that coordinated the freedom bid, were John Hancock (wealthy businessman), Samuel Adams (I have always associated with beer), Paul Revere (whose picture is on the bottles of Samuel Adams beer), John Adams (a lawyer and second cousin of Samuel), James Otis (a lawyer), Thomas Jefferson (another ‘lawyer’, getting to spot the trouble makers?) and Benjamin Franklin (who dropped out of school and then illegally dropped out of his contract as an apprentice and buggered off to Philadelphia (the place not the cheese). At this stage of the story I don’t think Franklin is going to do much with his life. So are you all with me so far?, we had the British governing the Colonies out here, Massachusetts (where Boston sits) being one and you had the Patriots, the ones above who didn’t like being governed or taxed.

Now let’s see what the rub is. The British Empire is at war (French again) and provides protection for its Colonies. So at this stage everyone in the Colonies was founded on the settlers and is therefore also British, or predominantly British. What the government wants is tax to pay for its empire protection duties and the Colonies aren’t paying any. The antagonists are wealthy and don’t want to pay tax. Now a clever dude, James Otis, comes out with a rallying speech “no taxation without representation is tyranny!” and this speech rallied a ‘bugger off’ message to the British Government. Not sure that 7 year olds are taught this version at school but I think us adults need to have it in an easy language to understand. It also coincided with a few skermishes initiated by Patriots against the British Soldiers looking after the Colony in which 5 of them came second in a fight with a musket ball. So, the British are the bad guys and the Patriots are the good guys. Funny that the Patriots version of the skermish events is slightly different.

Now as with any afray, the rich people stay at arms length and keep their names well away from trouble, but sponsor a group of villains to bully their message to the British, the ‘Sons of Liberty’. In pressing of a tax on a shipment of tea, the British boats are attacked by the Sons’ and the cargo poured into the Boston Harbour (the Boston Tea Party). Although I personally think that all tea should be dropped into the sea, the British Government sent troops to Boston to settle the issue and to give them a bit of a leathering.

So, there is no golden ark full of Mason treasure, Tom Hanks has yet to be signed for the Movie and Mel Gibson is taking language classes to sound like a Patriot Brit rather than a Patriot Scot. What they did have though was a cunning plan! Paul Revere had arranged riders to be sent when the British were coming on the signal of the hanging of one or two lanterns on a Church Steeple. The story goes ‘One if by land and Two if by sea’, seems that everything was put to poetry at the time and Paul Revere was really well known after a verse of a poem of the events ‘The Ride’. This is probably also why Revere is the picture on the bottle of Sam Adams Beer (see it rhymes, Revere…Beer).

Well, the short of it was that the British took a bit of a beating, then realised that this is a long term plan that the Patriots have and backed off. Thomas Jefferson drafted the Declaration of Independence and 52 leading figures signed it….yes, History set. The American Colonies become the United States of America, they shoot lots of their own presidents, we become good buddies oh and as of today they have a tax shortfall of 640 Billion dollars. The tax on the tea that brought this to a head was 33 Thousand dollars. History lesson over.

The walking tour was great and I have to say that Boston is a cool city, that unusually does not have a Ferris Wheel.

So from this deep history to a shallower bit of tourism and the second most important fact about Boston, the Cheers Bar. There are two. I visited the Replica at Quincy Market to get rehydrated after the tour walk. At this stage I was joined at the bar by the two other Brits who had walked the city and heard how bad we were. Enter Sarah and Rhys from Yorkshire. A really enjoyable night and great company. My one drink stretched to 5 pints of Samuel Adams, which surprisingly didn’t leave a bitter taste in my mouth. The walk to the Original Building bar would have to wait.

What a day and a nice introduction to Boston. I was expecting something quite different, more working city than tourist spot. Plus I had another bowl of Lobster Bisque in there famous food court in Quincy Market, what could be better?

In the next days I strolled around to take in central Boston and retraced the route that our Guide had given to get some photo’s of the City. A trip around the harbour to get the water bit of the British demise also added a perspective.

So how was my History? I am sure I got some things slightly out of context, but I hope that my British followers are now a little more educated than they were before. Oh and why are there lots of Irish and Italians here? Potato Famine in Ireland and Poverty in Southern Italy and they all jumped on a boat to Boston. However with this comes good food and great people and my search for a good Cannoli was found at Mike’s Pastry. A Cannoli is a curl of sweet pastry that is filled with sweet ricotta cheese and sometimes dipped in other great things to produce a lovely morning dessert…or afternoon…or evening.

I haven’t observed many Irish people other than loads of Bars carrying a shamrock, but going through Little Italy in the North End today, I could have been on the set of The Soprano’s.

So I have skimmed the cream on the top of Boston and found that it is a place of note and somewhere to come back. Thanks Boston.

I leave behind me the history of USA governance and tomorrow head for Texas and trips to Austin and Dallas (oh that one has a bit of history too, I forgot), catch you’ll soon!

Arizona

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Stepping off the plane at Phoenix and you have an absolute baptism of fire (well heat). It’s dry and hot in this part of the world but even though I have experienced Phoenix before it doesn’t prepare you for the blast as you leave the airport building.

I headed over to the Car Hire company in the air conditioned bus, but everyone was talking about the heat. Surprising really, being that they get over 320 days of sunshine a year and it always gets hot around June 1. After picking up the wrong car up in the garage (it was the same model and colour, rather than a me moment) I was on the road and heading out of Phoenix on the freeway. The local radio was on and they were talking about the next 4 days of heat. Today is wednesday and it is 98F outside. On Saturday and Sunday they are expecting 111F. Listening to the local TV channels, they are as pathetic as our own channels when it gets to practicalities. Friday night, “Phoenix is going to be hitting 110F this weekend and we have got a couple of ideas for you to take the family, the Phoenix Water Park”. Saturday night, “We may get to the record 111F on Sunday, so our advice is, if you don’t need to go out, don’t!”. If anyone is reading in Arizona, invite your reporters to send in their resumes to the BBC. No, I am not moanin’ it’s just that TV people are shallow.

I have 140 miles to drive to get to my Hotel in Flagstaff, but the first 10 is still grinding its way out of Phoenix and the afternoon traffic. After that you get a sense of where you are. You’re in the Desert and there are traditional looking cactus everywhere, like unattached fenceposts dotted everywhere you can see. The drive is great though as the land goes up and down and there are mountains and valleys to keep you occupied and to focus you driving on the wrong side of the road. I’m sure driving wasn’t like this when we let go of the colony 200 some years ago. The other amazing thing was the change in landscape inside the 2 hour drive. You pass through Desert, to green scrub land and then to dense green forest as you get close to Flagstaff, which faces the Mountains. The land also rises to 7000 feet above sea level, so the temperature shaves a bit to a cool 75F. It’s still hot though as today there isn’t a major cloud in the sky.

Next day was a lazy day, which I caught up on blogging and laundry and looked out at the heat from the bar rather than venturing out. I did do an amble of 2 miles around the local forest as I felt guilty, saw more nature, Prairie Dogs, Red Squirrels, Some Blue birds and a Girl on a Bike!

Next day, off for a tour around Sedona. Sedona is a beautiful desert town with some rugged mountains of red and light brown rock. A bit like Uluru’s rock in the Red Centre, but shaped by passing water over the billions of years and the lines in the rock (the sedimentary layers I believe) go horizonal, where the Aussie one’s go vertical. The interesting thing is that Sedona is a thriving town in the middle of the rocks. You will see from the pictures that they must get water from somewhere as there is still a lot of green around. The entrance to Sedona is through a winding mountain road through the forests and you repeatedly get glimpses of high peaks and lows creeks that are impossible to photograph by myself in the car. I am trying my hardest to stay on the right hand side of the road.

The town is a low level (building height, land is at 7000 feet) high street which has side roads that go up to the feet of the mountains. It is as if they had designed the town and then put the rocks in to compliment it. This is ‘cowboy country’ to me, the sort where the pioneeering wranglers goes across the desert in search of steer, they run out of water, shoot the donkey and then get an arrow in the back. A bit like corporate life really!

I toured around taking photo’s and just staring. I did stop off at one church, the chapel of the Holy Cross, which is built into the mountain and lit a candle for Sue, as I thought she would have liked this one. But in places like Sedona where the temperature must have been 95F today, the flowers are still blooming and the trees are in leaf. I’m getting a bit like David Attenborough.

I’m staying in Flagstaff which is a small town off Route 66 at a motel-like hotel, ‘The Little America’. It occupies a big plot of land, but instead of going upwards, its goes along. The feel I got for the hotel was when I walked into their reception, was one of a 1950’s hollywood set for a Bing Crosby movie. Soft furnishings, bold rock brickwork and lots of wood. It really was a cozy place to stay and the people were friendly. Now some were friendlier than others. As part of their complex they also had a Truckers park and the characters came into the Hotel bar each evening. Some where definitely quick talkers with the local ladies (although there were very few unattached women). The stories they struck up were funny though, recounting particular routes, home states, estranged wives, and lots of tall stories. Somehow, it seemed the clientele suited the place. Seeing the efforts of one driver on a local being wasted was hilarious to watch, as he bullshitted his way into a nose spin. Good fun.

So back to the sight seeing. My aim for this part of the trip was to see the Grand Canyon, so I headed out on the indirect of the two routes available which took me though mile after mile of grass land, forest and desert. You wouldn’t think you could get this all at once but you do. All I could think over was Cowboys and Indians as the openings between the trees (long and wide) were a fitting scene for a horse chase. It was a pleasant drive and with my Country albums banging out for 2 hours each way it was a very relaxing transit. So what of the Grand Canyon?…Really Awesome!

I don’t know what I was expecting as TV and photo’s never really give you the depth and the feeling of being there. I got out at the Visitor Centre and made a few hundred yards walk to the first observation point. You are going up a slight incline so don’t see a thing but blue sky until you get to the last 20 feet and then !!!!! wow! This is really massive and the cuts in the ground go on for as far as the eye can see. It is so big that you don’t know where to point your camera. And the colours! When we talk about wonders of the world the natural ones take some beating. The Colorado River has cut lines in the rocks for 2 Billion Years. When you see the slither of River now against the deep groves and hundreds of miles of canyon ??..now that’s a wonder! I walked for about 2 kilometres across the south rim, but it was hot, just short of 95F and I could feel my arms sizzling. My head was fine as I had my Aussie Jackaroo hat to give a little shade, but I was heating up.

For the right side views of the Canyon, I got back into the car and the air conditioning and drove the 25 miles to various scenic points, each different to the last, but I think it will be a hard one to explain to the folks back home. All I will say is, come out to this one and see it for yourselves (and Sedona).

I have about 200 photos of various angles, but I think my favourite is a young couple that I spotted that had walked out on one of the ledges and sat down with their feet dangling over the edge. This gives you the real perspective. I was thinking of setting up my tripod and walking out there myself, but once one person has done it I don’t think it would have been fair to mimic their adventure.

So that was about it for Arizona, other than to drive back through the immense scenery once more to Phoenix Airport. And I can tell you that Country music sounds even sweeter when you are looking out at this stuff. Try a bit of Luke Bryan to these photo’s, believe me, honest!

And for Phoenix, as I waited for a shuttle bus back at the Airport it was 106F in the shade!

“If you’re going to San Francisco”

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“…be sure to wear some flowers in your hair”

Well that is the most famous song about San Francisco and a global anthem for the Hippy trail in the 60’s. Peace man, ban the bomb, free love, legalise drugs and wear what you feel. History right?..yeh right, it’s all still living right here in this amazing City

The flight up from Los Angeles wasn’t too late, so I caught the train into the centre of the City. I once again had low intelligence for the best place to stay so I went for a brand that I had used in Tokyo and the services description seemed right. I saw it was 2 blocks one way and 2 blocks in another from the central station called ‘Powell Street’, so easy to find. The only problem with that is that when you come out of a Station, you don’t know what side of the road you are on and you can’t see Street signs because there are so many signs. As I came out the Station, I was hit with Buskers and Beggars which is part of the scene in downtown San Francisco. I headed up a main thoroughfare for 2 minutes before spotting someone who looked like a tourist information guide. Actually he looked like Shaggy off Scooby Doo, but he was helpful to give me a very direct line in the opposite direction to where I was walking. I’ve always been pretty good at math. If you walk 2 blocks in the wrong direction and 2 more then in a square, if you are totally wrong, you then have to walk 4 blocks in the opposite direction and 4 in a square to get you to the destination. That means that you might walk 12 blocks, when you wanted to do 4… Still with me? Direction, as in life, is everything!

As directed I found the Hotel on the corner of a block, which was as I had expected and the right quality. I wasn’t into venturing out this evening as I had no real bearings and I was approached by about 10 beggars on the way to the hotel. Not only that, I was to find out that the area is full of Wacky people (probably political incorrect, but accurate I assure you). My safe haven for the evening was the Hotel’s cocktail bar and a leisurely chat with the bar staff of what ‘Frisco had to offer.

One thing I noticed was how long daylight time there was here. It didn’t go dark until 8.30pm, which is the lightest evening I have seen since August last year. What that means is that you have more tourist hours that you can use if you want to.

So next morning, I caught up with the Rarotonga blog and posted some pictures of the fish etc over a USA tradition of a cup of Starbuck’s coffee. I caught up with a couple of brothers who were travelling after doing their studies and we had a really pleasant discussion of travelling and direction. I am finding that young and old share this same conversation point.

As a quick venture out I ‘retraced’ my steps of yesterday evening (left out of the Hotel Door and a couple of blocks back) back to the Tram turning point. Hmm, that corner looks a bit different and I can’t see any trams, but there are lots of people lying out on the ground or hanging out in groups. It seems I was a bit different for the area. People were walking by talking to themselves. Halt, 180 degree turn and back into the hotel.

The weather wasn’t that good, cold, rain in the air and it was grey with odd break of light sky, but I decide to have a Tourist Bus ride to see the whole city and in the right direction. My Concierge helped me, so I asked a final question. “are there areas I should avoid?” He started shading in a number of blocks on the map to make a rectangle. “Yes, if you turn left out of the hotel and cross the road…you don’t want to be there”. Turning right was fine! Got it!!

With that bearing I was now on the game and I would have caught a Cable Car to my next destination up the hill (San Francisco is amazingly hilly) but at that time the Cable broke down and the Cars started queuing up at the terminus, however a little walk was good. It’s a Public Holiday today and there are lots of people about, so it feels like a Saturday. At every corner there are beggars or musicians, some claiming to be war veterans, some just wanting money. One sign of a lady just said ‘Pregnant, Stressed Out, need money’. The tour guide later would point to a fact of why these people head to San Francisco. First the weather here is a temperate climate all year around and if you can show an address in SF you get free healthcare. Buskers also earn between 30 and 60 thousand dollars a year. Plus there is a constant smell of ‘grass’ in the air, so I guess they have a lot of ‘gardeners’, dig what I mean dude?

As you move away from Downtown it gets a bit saner. On the tour bus, we made our way around a circle of the City including a good viewing point for the Golden Gate Bridge, a ride across the Bridge and a second viewing point for those memorable photo’s. The City has an amazing contrast of weather. Temperature, moisture, wind etc Well the Bridge was whited out by fog, even very close up. As you moved into the bay, you could see clearly across the water. It was as though there was a big net catching all the sea mist and holding it around the bridge.

So, tour done and a little lunch (a juicy steak that the Guide had recommended), I continued to walk higher up the hills to get a few photo’s of the wavy slopes and at the top of one high point, I dodged the low level traffic to get a shot down hill, just as a fellow traveller was also contemplating the same shot. We struck up the usual ‘job break-travel’ chat and it seemed we had some common travel stories. The traveller was ‘Olivia’ from London who was a welcome smiling face on a greyish afternoon. Olivia was traveling through and only in SF for the day and flew back to the UK the next day. We walked and talked as we headed back towards downtown and I gave her my warnings of ‘no go zones’, but as it felt like a Saturday afternoon I thought that a glass or two of wine might be in order. Well, Olivia was aiming to get to China Town, which we did in theory as we got to a French restaurant and bar right across the road from its Welcome Gate. We chatted our available tourist time away on a myriad of topics, some where we both at times lost the plot of the conversations. We chatted through the afternoon and stayed on for Dinner as well, until all the other guests had gone and the waitress said that she needed to leave too. It was a lovely day and I really thought her company was charming. I can apologise to her now for using up her day in the Restaurant and missing her tour of China Town and the rest of San Francisco. (Olivia, I have put a shot of the Hill and the China Town gate on the page in case you wanted it!)

So, on to my second and final day I headed up to the Cable Car to have the ride over to the Wharf. It is a really cool City, with quaint pastel colour buildings. I jumped off at the intersection with the ‘Crookiedest Street’ (Lombard St) for photo’s and then into Fisherman’s Wharf for a well earned Crab Bisque in a Loaf which I tucked in before thinking of the photo.

My prime objective for the afternoon was to take a shot of the Bridge from a suitable harbour point, as it is the icon of the City (apart from Weirdo’s, wacky backy and flip flops). As I ambled around Aquatic Park, a harbour ring-fenced by a circular quay, I spotted in the distance one of the large America’s Cup sailing boats out in the Bay. They quickly go out of sight as they tack across from side to side. I was standing next to a couple of people as this was happening and the lady pointed out towards the bridge and said she thought it was coming. You could see a feint twig on the horizon and then as it turned, you could see how big and fast this thing was. There were two boats about 10 minutes apart and they were flying. They have aqua-foils on the hulls that lift the boat out of the water. Absolutely incredible! Further on I caught up with a couple of sailing fans who had their camera’s at the ready for another sail-by. It wasn’t to happen, but we chatted and laughed for about an hour and a half about anything and nothing. What I hadn’t realised was that I was pointing straight at the sun. I would later find out that my biggest tan of the trip was happening, or reddening to be exact.

Before I headed back to the return cable car, I returned to the wharf for some more seafood. This time a plate of a dozen oysters, 10 of which were good, and a basket of fried prawns which were really juicy. This was again a nice day and I had been distracted differently today by the sight of a beautiful boat in the right setting.

So I have enjoyed my stay although I still think that they have some wacky people.

Onwards to Phoenix and Arizona, where the temperature will change again by at least 40 degrees fahrenheit.

In Paradise…

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I flew out of Rarotonga last night to head for Los Angeles. Jake serenaded the leavers from paradise island from his elevated stage, strumming away on his Ukelele. It was funny earlier in the day to see a sign at the side of the road “Ukelele For Sale” (had someone given up on the dream?)

In the last couple of days I have experienced what really happens when you bring together the right natural ingredients and got a sense of what Show the Island can put on.

Let’s start with a wedding at the property. I think that there were only 9 guests in total staying at the Magic Reef Bungalows. In the bright morning sunshine there was an early bustle going on by the staff to prepare the beach, the decking and the walkways to the beach. Grace who manages the place pointed to the Bungalow facing mine, which was hidden by large tropical flowers and fruit trees, shouted to me that ‘Glen and Chelsea’ were getting married today at 5pm. They are a young quiet couple from Canada. They were alone for their big occasion, so there wasn’t the usual parental and sibling guidance that you usually get. The Staff draped the furniture in white and there was a wedding arch constructed on the beach of Palm Leaves, coloured with tropical flowers. A coral rock edged path led to the arch and there were multicolour tropical flowers scattered on the short path from their bundalow to the beach. The Minister arrived in his Island flowered shirt with a smile that had been practiced many hundred times before. “I have the best job on the Island” he said.

On cue the couple arrive to some music and were soon face to face with the background of the lowering sun on the water. The rest of the ‘guests’ watched, clapped then joined them in a toast. What a way to do it, she was stunning and even though it was a beach, the white dress blended in perfectly with the sand and the sea.

So where do we go now…Tradition! This Island is all about history, culture and tradition, which they are actively trying to keep alive. I could not have left without visiting one of their sacred villages for a ‘Polynesian Evening’. A small bus picked me up just after the allotted time (they all work on Coconut Time) and we did a short roll around the Island Road to pick up other guests. We didn’t have far to travel because quite frankly the Island is so small anyway, but we did head inland for a mile up a steep road. There are 3 tribes on the Island that have historically beaten each other to death and eaten each other since 500AD. Very much linked to Fiji, Tonga and New Zealand culture with the way they talk and guesture.

The talk started in the dimming light for the 40 of so guests who were separated into two groups, Vaka’s, representing the boats of their forefathers who left the land in search of other Islands. A food offering was made to the ancestors and then we were led to a bamboo gate to start the evening, all with a lot of chanting and spear pointing. We were walked into the Large bamboo hut, which had open views of the coast from its high point to two sides and there was a stage in front of a third Vaka, which was made up of locals celebrating a birthday. But it was a special birthday. One of the decendants of the original King, made a push in 1980 to open up the area to visitors and to keep the Rarotongan culture alive. Although passed on now, his wife was celebrating her 80th birthday, a real privilege for us and quite unusual. After the celebration to ‘Mama’, we got on with the show.

They told the story of the Islands with Song, hoola dancing and of course drums. The drums set the tempo for the whole evening and I had the beat in my head even when getting on the plane 24 hours later. The drums from slow banging bass with a big wooden pestle, to the fast high pitched wooden clicking and lots of range in between bashed away a beat for the chanting and singing. The dancing by the boys and girls was hypnotic. I know it’s not PC to be watching the rear ends of young girls swinging and shaking it for all their worth, but the hip movement to the beat was amazing. The show in the evening light was colourful, full of movement and with meaning, but I was pleased when the Missionaries came and got the girls to wear longer grass skirts…Praise the lord! A very memorable evening!

So the final show that this Island has to offer is the Sea. I thought I might have a chance with a higher tide on the Saturday that I was to leave, but the heavens opened up, mist shrouded the mountains and a grey blanket came over the Island…for a while. It did break long enough to get about 2 hours of snorkelling and to try harder at getting the fish into the frame of my camera. With the rain and wind and a high tide, I was being pushed back and forth, but the fish were out in their numbers. The moment that I explained in the last post happened again. You stop, you hang in the water and then you are surrounded by hundreds of fish.

As you will see from the photo’s I did manage to hit the button at the right time a few times.

So that’s about it for Rarotonga, I am in the hands of a better air crew and plane to go with Air New Zealand off to the USA and my Watch gains 3 more hours. It didn’t go off without a final hitch. The ground crew at Rarotonga loaded the Business Class food containers to the back of the plane and the Economy to the front, then managed to break the hoist, so for 15 minutes there was a relay of trollies up and down the plane. Added weigh to one of their local sayings …”Who Cares!”.

So next time I open my eyes, I will be going to touch down in the last of the former colonies, the USA. I believe another cultural shift is coming and jet lag, so bring it on!

Things to do…

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…while lying on your back or your front in Rarotonga.

It’s 10 o’clock in the morning and I am laid back on a sun lounger peering out to sea. The tide is going out and the lagoon is a shimmering shallow of clear water. The sands to the water are etched with last nights trade routes of the hermit crabs like perfectly ploughed lanes. To watch them drag their homes across the sand is like a young child dragging their responsibility of luggage at an airport. It’s awkward but the crab is unlikely to abandon its duty.

The ocean appears mild and then as I go to write a huge wave crashes into the reef. The palms are bowing to the sands and wafting the shade across my face. Sometimes doing nothing can be so simple, but so complex to achieve that simplicity.

My bit of the beach is really crowded today. The crowd including myself has reached 7 people. Everyone has their own palm privacy and we are spread across the manicured frontage of the property. And everyone has a different perspective both physically and theoretical. I don’t know what they are thinking, but as I peer, the loungers are pointed in different directions and some people are reading, some have their eyes closed and surprisingly I haven’t heard anyone speak. Salutations are waves and those in couples appear to act like some kind of Torville and Dean display by getting into their positions without any fuss or correction. As I tilt my head back, I interweave the backs of fingers with each other and press them up against my face to block out everything around me other than the Palms and the Blue sky above my head. It gives you the feeling of a castaway, but with a motivation to stay not to be rescued.

I do miss not having someone to share these moments. A picture and a few words will help convey what this is like, but there is so much raw beauty that the best way to appreciate its depth would be to just be here. It’s a bit like a kaleidascope, as you twist and turn the picture changes and your emotions turn again and your thoughts change again.

So to my Rarotongan challenge…on my list of things to do on your back…

1. observe nature and the elements just passing by!

When you have this context, the next few come naturally…

2. Thought. What do I want do when I grow up? This is becoming a more regular thought as I turn the corner of the world trip. I had this discussion with a friend in Sydney over a bowl of sloppy long thick noodles. We set out in life to do something and without time to stand and stare you start diluting what you value. It can be your job or your pastimes, but things, often good things, come up to change your direction. Before you know it your aspiration buoy is out of sight, your boat is drifting to a new line and eventual you forget what and who you wanted to be. Living in a fast world you are continually driven into new ports and your compass is replaced by Guides who tell you which direction to head.

So here I am lying in paradise, the only distraction is a bit of Country Music in my ears, so my chance to get out the compass and set a new course for a new destination. Without distraction you can also cogitate too, so assessing what would it need to make it happen, assess the chance of you completing the journey and balancing this with serandipity, because if you find something you want, events will also happen to assist you. Louis Pasteur once wrote “chance favours the prepared mind” and I believe in fate as long as you honestly believe the event is really on your path to fulfilment and not just another nice thing to distract you.

No. 3 Solving life’s problems. As you know I tweet on Behaviours, Values and Culture (although I have been pretty delinquent over the last month!), I try to avoid ‘right’ and ‘wrong’ as it’s a complex subject and gets you into areas of pre-defined thought and prejudices etc. I would like to see a common set of beliefs that this precious old world could share. So here I am in conference, on my back, with myself, and I am putting up observations, ideas and then seeing why the world doesn’t stand together on some stuff. It’s a bit like having a large piece of paper and putting down a problem in the centre then arguing with yourself. The hardest bit is tracking your thought as it is very easy to drift in the warm breeze into …

No. 4 Sleep…

When you are on the next overnight flight, observe the following things that the airline will do for you…a bit of stodgey food, a glass of alcohol, the cabin warms up, they give you a blanket and they put some entertainment on a screen that is hard to focus. Your sleep senses are thinking Hibernate, the airline is thinking Anaesthetise. So, you are on your back with a warm tropical breeze blanket, your eyes are being mesmerised by slow moving natural events and you have probably just eaten a little breakfast/lunch. I also find that reading or writing my blog sends me off too. I guess you have the same dozing sense when reading them too!

But good sleep is great for the body.

See there are loads of things to do on your back…

Let’s flip over… to things to do here lying on your front. My mind is focussed on…

Yes, you have it!…Snorkelling

Yesterday I had my introduction to a larger lagoon a few miles away down the coast road and used my Snorkelling equipment for the first time. Tides are important for what you see but the lagoon pool I would be doing it in is like a bowl circled by a reef that is about 400 to 500 metres in circumference. I dropped my bags off at a Dive Centre and headed out with the basics. Not having a waterproof watch is a bit of a disadvantage as you really can’t work out how long you are in the water. I managed to guage an hour by luck than judgement, but I could have stayed all afternoon. My only fear was that being baked in the UV potent light could be painful. The centre closes at 5pm and they advise you not to leave things on the beach as the local dogs have a tendency to trot off with items. But let me get straight into the Snorkelling…Wow!

From knee deep you start to see fish. Small and golden like the colour of the sand, with their eyes focussed on you. I start to click my camera and then stand up for a replay. My aim isn’t quite right yet, so I am getting 12 megapixels of nothing but a sandy bottom. The camera has got a screen and has the usual zoom lens but the optics are so different between what you see through the goggles and what gets captured. Within 5 minutes of leg flippering (I can’t think of the right verb), I am at a nice 6 to 7 foot depth which seems to be the deepest in the lagoon. This is were the aquarium really starts and your eyes are taken by one fish after another, within 1 to 2 feet in front of you (and behind). Sorry I have gone back to Imperial measures as it is quicker to say. At one point My bouyancy was balanced so my head was just underwater and I was vertical. I stayed still and the fish came to me. It really was one of those moments. I tried my hardest to capture it, but it is going to take a few photo attempts I think.

The colours and the varieties just kept coming. A few large silver ones and some black and white ones like the ‘Nemo’ fish that would swim into the shelter of coral as I got to within a few feet (a metre). Yellow, Blue, Tiger, Black ….Thin, fat, ugly, pretty, it’s all here.

The dive centre had said to watch out for Moray Eels, which are rather large and have big teeth so I tried not to get too close to any holes or lower shelves without having a reccy first. When the final selection of pictures comes I hope I can do it some justice. I do have some video footage but so far it looks like it has been taken by a 3 year old on a bouncy castle.

The tide times are working against me a bit this week. I would need to be out very early to catch high tide or it is coming in later afternoon as the light is fading. Each day it steps a bit later, so shallow water it may have to be. The challenge with shallow water is just that as the swirls of the current push you back and forth the opportunity to nudge into a ball of coral is that much greater. Today’s snorkel did just that. As I paddled slowly between two rocks I was swept into some coral and caught my shin and toe. Some great white shark off the horn of South Africa has probably smelled the blood in the water and is on its way. Coral is as brittle as glass and sharp and you will usually come off second best.

I will put a few sample pictures up now to tease, but more will come when I get to the USA.

So, lots of alternative things to do on your back and front that you may not have been think of in your primary thought. And as you can deduce standing up in Rarotonga is a secondary effort and one left for the important task of walking to or from a place where you need to lie down!

Rarotonga…The Cook Islands

Sorry folks, but Photo’s will have to be added in about a weeks time as I am WiFi disabled again.

Here’s a challenging puzzle to kick us off. How long was my flight? I took off at 21.15pm out of Sydney on 18th May and landed at Rarotonga at 7.00am on 18th May. Sydney is 9 hours ahead of the UK and Rarotonga is 11 hours behind the UK. For completeness, it was an Air New Zealand flight, my main bag was 22.9 kilo’s and I was in seat 19B. I’ve been away for 65 days which is similar to the position Phileas Fogg was in.

The flight was a bit uneventful as it was night time and a number of hours of sleep was on the agenda. As I waited at the gate for the Air New Zealand flight I heard the announcement that all seasoned travellers want to hear, “can Mr David Dugdale please make himself known to the gate staff!”…Sure can, I thought, upgrade coming! I didn’t hesitate and as I approached the airline girl she had a boarding card in her hand. “Mr Dugdale, we need to accommodate a family that want to sit together (yes, I am thinking). At check-in I always try to get an emergency aisle if possible and they aren’t charging for the privilege so had already secured this spot for the flight for the extra room and a bulk head seat. “So we have moved you back a seat”. No! A downgrade!, the seat right behind the one I had secured. Like a gent’ I smiled and accepted the exchange of boarding cards.

As we got onboard I thought ‘what a cruddy plane’. It was small, old and dirty, with staff to match. Actually the staff were not dirty, but let’s put it like this, they were not from Singapore. My seat was still an emergency exit seat so one saving grace and no real hardship other than setting yourself a false expectation and poking yourself in the eye with a premature victory salute. The old guy taking my seat was one of the traveller types that I have come to hate. Up, Down, “can I have an extra Cushion? , Can I have a glass of water?” and definitely taking too much luggage on board. I could also sense he would be an ‘early recliner’, so was waiting for this.

Take-off and ‘Ping’, “You can now switch on your electronic devices and on the plane’s entertainment channel you will find…He starts. My seat buddy had a problem, his TV wouldn’t come out of his seat. The Stewardess eventually came back with a spanner and on her ageing bended knees unscrewed something by my feet. “The pictures not coming through”. She played with the spanners and it came on, but was not fully functional. Next, his seat wouldn’t recline properly, so out came with the spanners again, although I think his bouncing got it back rather than anything that the Stewardess really did. I had a little laugh to myself, then whacked up the volume on the headphones with a little Luke Bryan to settle me into the flight.

A few hours of sleep and we are ready for the short landing into Rarotonga. The pilot warns that it will be short and there will be a lot of engine noise and braking. You see the runway starting at the beach line and he doesn’t waste much time in touching down. Nice job. A very small airport, with a mountain backdrop, and we are taxi’d right to the Arrivals door. There are so few flights that the Hotel staff know the times of arrivals and departures for all the locations. It’s got that South Pacific feeling as soon as you see the staff, full of welcome smiles even though they have to do their immigration and customs bits. It was 7am and they were all alert for the one plane that was going through. We sped through Immigration and Customs, while a man called ‘Jake’ played a Ukelale and sang Rarotongan songs to welcome everyone to the Island. I was to read later that he does 17 welcomes a week and has been doing it for 30 years. As I get to the edge of the arrivals hall an official asks for my Hotel name and then bellows directly at a taxi driver standing just 15 feet away with a big smile. As I hand him my bag, he places a garland of white and yellow flowers around my neck. “Kia Orana!”

It is early on Saturday (funny that by the end of the day I will have had 38 hours of Saturday 18th May plus some time on the flight) and my Hotel isn’t open yet, which had gone through my mind with the usual 2pm check-in times that you normally get. But no problem, he points to the reception and tells me it will be open for the morning and also points to my name on a whiteboard that simply says, ‘Bungalow 4, Dave, UK’, alongside all the other existing guest names. A very intimate welcome even though no-one was there. A welcome fruit breakfast is in my room and a more welcoming 4 poster bed.

I was out cold inside minutes and woke at around 1.30pm. By this stage the reception was closed for the day and it will also be closed all day on sunday. Rarotonga is very laid back. I read a notice on the reception wall, ‘if we are closed you can use the phone in the Bike Shed (10 feet away) and call this number’. I did but an announcement said that I couldn’t use the phone. So it needs to be a possible make-do scenario. The room has a good directory of the local area so I have a first heading of a Bar 50 yards away up the beach, by now it was 2.30pm and I needed a bit of light sustenance.

You will see the pictures in about a week as the Island hasn’t got particularly good WiFi, so just words for a while, but let me paint a picture of Rarotonga and where I am staying. The Island is 32 Kilometres around and has a road that skirts the coast in one big loop. A bus operates ‘roughly’ to an hourly timetable, Clockwise and Anti-clockwise on this road. In the middle are high Mountains (A Volcano) that is covered in deep green rainforest. Every one lives close to the beach. My Bungalow made of Bamboo with an al fresco bathroom to the back and a veranda to the front is 25 feet from the beach and the line of the beach is 25 feet from the water. A reef lies about 100 metres off shore and the massive Ocean waves crash against this, but the water in the Lagoon up to the beach just ripples. After the reef the water then drops to 4500 feet. Basically we are on a high base station of a big mountain that starts at the Ocean’s floor. As I look up and down the beach, there is no one to be seen. The waves roll into the reef every 10 seconds and about 1 in 6 are much bigger than the others, the colours are breathtaking.

As directed I find the Bar which steps right off the beach, The Waterline, a weathered timber building with platforms for Dining and a small Bar. A Waitress is keeping it open as there are no customers, but I am welcomed and manage to order some food 10 minutes before the end of the afternoons allotted time. Something I will need to account for in my timings, some places won’t be open for long periods. As I sit and sip I am eventually joined by the owner, a resident now, but originally from Lymington in Hampshire, but travelled out in the 70’s and we are then joined by a young couple from Cairns in Australia (his Mother was a Londoner and his Partner was from Yorkshire). A pleasant afternoon, but I could feel that jet lag was still in me which is the first time I had had that feeling since leaving the UK. I did need it as I slept through until 10.30am the next morning. Breathing in fresh air is really good for you.

Being Sunday nothing much was going to happen around so I had a late breakfast then wandered down to the Beach to lie out for a while. Every time you look, you see something more in detail, Coral on the beach, Hermit Crabs salsa dancing with the wash of the ocean, Palm trees bowing across my vision. Truly idyllic. I made it until late afternoon before I ventured to the watering hole for refreshment. A few more people in the bar, but I struck up conversation with 3 people about the sunset. I haven’t mentioned the sunsets yet, they are amazing and I only have to walk 25 feet to see them. The people turn out to be from the Foreign Office of the Singapore government on an official trip to Rarotonga. I shared my lovely experience of Singapore with them as well as some of the poorer comparisons, which they were delighted to hear. Remember my comment about driving from Changhi Airport and saying it was like one big garden. That is how they had designed and wanted it to be perceived by visitors.

The Singaporean’s were waiting for the Rarotongan cabinet to arrive, yes, the Prime Minister and his Ministers. They scuttled off as the first of their hosts arrived. To my surprise the head Singaporean, Matthew, introduces the first Rarotongan arrival directly to me. “Tom, this is Dave he is travelling around the world and he is writing a blog about it”. Tom a broad chested Rarotongan with a floral shirt and a single fresh white flow over his right ear, welcomed me. “I’m the Deputy Prime Minister, I hope you are enjoying your stay with us?” He asked when I got in and when I was leaving. We talked briefly about the sunset, which he took as much pride in it as if it were his own creation. They then went off for Dinner to one side with their delegation including the Prime Minister and I decided that with the sun down that this was a time to get a freshen up and a late siesta. Duly freshened, I returned down the shoreline to the light of the crescent moon, which lit up my sand path. A bite to eat and a couple of drinks later it was soon closing time. The Deputy Prime Minister came over again, patted me on the back and shook my hand with a nice salutation. What a country I thought. You try to get a nodding elected Councillor back home interested in something ??

I was one of the last few out of the bar, not that it was a long drinking session, but it seemed to wrap up around 10.30pm and I talked with Chris the owner and two Australians, about Australia.

Heading back down the beach to the bungalow, although the moon was partly out, I stopped to look at the stars. It was a clear night and the longer you looked the more appeared. A couple of weeks ago when I went to Phillip Island to see the little Penguins in Victoria, the stars on show that night were amazing but I forget whether I wrote about it in my blog. That night I saw clouds of stars, so my hope is for seeing the same here.

So that’s my introduction to Rarotonga. This is going to be a place that I hopefully get chance to get my new Camera into action, but time to chill’ and I do need to think a bit about the future and what I would like it to hold for me.

Somewhere over the rainbow…

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Well, Saturday night I headed out of Sydney and Australia to The Cook Islands. I will come back to my overall feelings of Oz at the end of the post.

The past few days have been leisurely as well as practical as I have tried to see a little of Sydney and its people. A couple of ventures up to Manly Beach, the competitor to Bondi and regarded by locals as the best that Sydney has to offer, which was lovely. The Ferry takes you to the back door of the peninsular and an avenue of shops leads you to the beach front. Bleached blonde sand goes well with the naturally blonde locals (as well as lots of stunning brunettes). Earlier in the week it was quite empty, but you still got a feel that the locals know what they have on their doorstep. A large group of Mum’s and Toddlers are gathered on the grass by the side of the promenade looking out to sea with their flasks of coffee for elevenses. The autumn breeze chills the air sufficently to make the sun really comfortable. Surfers are carrying their boards down to the water, while others sit astride their boards just offshore waiting for that special moment.

After a stop-start walk back and forth across the front, I end up in a bar for my twelveses (wine and a salad). Great way to spend a few hours before returning to the Ferry for the slow trip back.

Todays trip to Manly was almost identical. Walk, beach, surfers, eat. On the way back something really amazing happened. As I past a street musician, a young girl of about 20 I guess, started to sing ‘Somewhere over the rainbow’. It stopped me in my tracks and I had to listen to the whole rendition. It was excellent and fitting of my tour to Oz. In Sydney I had not expected to find what I had found. I emptied my change into her Guitar case.

The harbour was buzzing with weekend sailors with their bright white kites full with wind, tacking from side to side and dancing with the many ferries that cut routes in the deep blue water.

Earlier in the week, I took the ferry around to Darling Harbour, which is a really popular part of Sydney for tourists and locals alike. Lots of things to do and lots of restaurants and bars. In the daytime it is a really pleasant stroll down the boardwalks and in the evening the Restaurants come to life. Friday night I met up with neighbours Marie, Steve and Jemma and chewed over my sabbatical as well as Jemma’s time out in Sydney. We all agreed with separate reasons why returning to Sydney had so many positive attractions.

So what else have I been doing. Preparation for Rarotonga… On Wednesday, I bought a Camera that I could use underwater for snorkelling. On Thursday night I trapped it behind the door of my Hotel Room safe and shattered the screen. Back out again on Friday to buy another identical model (much to the amusement of the salesman at the department store where I bought them).

My hotel was in the Rocks area of Sydney which is the oldest settlement and the side streets still show signs of the old days, with a modern twist. It did remind in places of Dickensian London, with small alleyways fitting of the back streets of St Paul’s.

So it’s the end of Sydney and Australia (for now at least) and I have a feeling of regret that I am moving on. Although I have had moments of lull along the way and at times it has been a little lonely being a sole traveller, it has ended with a real positive feeling for Australia, its people and its way of life. It maybe helps that in the last month, we have had sunshine and nice blue sky on most days, which picks you up and then having a low expectation of the final leg which really came through with the goods? Would I come back?…absolutely! Do I need a Yellow Brick Road to guide me?…well, I know my way from Perth. It sort of went…

Into Perth a quiet, civilised and laid back commercial hamlet with due mention to Fremantle and especially Rottnest which gave me a pick up…

Then heading to the Red Centre which in 3 days gave me a feel for how remote you can be on this Island. My colleague campers were good fun and helped to pass the many kilometres away…

Then out to Brisbane, the place to work and live with a River, a Wheel and a South Bank…

A bit of a zig zag back to Melbourne which had all those things Australian, beer and weather as cold as the UK, recovered through the beautiful Great Ocean Road drive and the Koala’s and the Roo’s of the Grampians…

And finally there was Sydney. Everyone will have an opinion, but my experience of Sydney is that the wizard of Oz is alive and kicking right here. I wanted more time to ‘Stand and stare’ here, but I will return if, full of care.

Gems in Sydney

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I had a lesser expectation in my mind of Sydney from the comments from other travellers and Australians. I was going to stay a couple of days and then do a number of days elsewhere but my mind was quickly changed and my feelings for the city heightened with an early taste of local things.

Flying into Sydney you get a feeling straightaway that it is the biggest City in Australia. For the British contingent, it was the first Penal Colony based around the the landings at Botany Bay.

My early assessment of ‘big city’ is based on the fact that I didn’t arrive in a cow shed for a terminal and there was an Airport Train right to my Hotel. There is a ferris wheel at a Fair under the Bridge but that doesn’t count as a ‘South Bank Wheel’, but I will forgive this omission.

It was getting late when I got into the Hotel, so refuelled myself in the Bar and watched Aston Villa v Chelsea live on the TV.

My room was quite spacious which I wasn’t expecting for Sydney. A corner suite with a very large outside window at bath brim level in the bathroom (memories of Delhi) and two large Windows in my Bedroom on either side of the corner, one roughly towards The Sydney Opera House and the other, which looked out onto the City, with a prominent BT logo on one of the large building in the distance. It was Sunday tomorrow so no need for an alarm, the Sunshine can wake me up.

Well the room got lighter in the morning but there was a pea-soup fog over Sydney which made the headline news. Ferries were suspended and you couldn’t see 20 yards. I was located in a series of tall buildings but you wouldn’t have known it. But nothing is forever and by 11.30am the fog was rising and thinning and the brilliant sunshine shone through a beautiful blue sky. As if on cue, the weather had been turned on for the 12th May which was Australia’s Mother’s Day!

I made my way down to the closest harbour which as you approached saw the Sydney Bridge to the left and the Opera House to the right. Ferries were sprinting from the Quayside and the place was buzzing. Aboriginal musicians were panting away on their digeridoo’s to attract the public and a variety of other acts were set up as side shows. I could see this was to be a day of strolling, sipping and watching. And so I did. Venturing first with a walk to the left and under the Bridge. From this side the pictures of the Opera House are only interrupted by the boats coming in and out of the Quay. It is a world icon and seeing it for the first time does give you a feeing of fulfilment. A large International Passenger Terminal was on this side too where all the very large Cruise Ships, like the Queen Mary 2, dock. Some like the Queen Mary are so big that they can’t get under the Sydney Bridge (basically floating villages of 4000 passengers). You do get a feeling of the Titanic, the scene where they are setting off from the dockside. Sadly, there wasn’t a ship in port on sunday.

The picture of the Opera House also attracted lots of photo poses for people who were informally or formally using the back drop. By formally, I mean specifically, Weddings! By coincidence they were all I think Chinese. It was funny to see them queuing up for a specific spot which each photographer thought would be a unique snap. But what a memory at the same time.

As I ambled back towards the other side of the Quay (to get the photo of the Bridge), the tables and chairs were filling along the long quayside with Happy Mothers with their Happy Sons and Daughters. To be honest, I really wanted to be part of it. It was hot, sunny and everyone was well…Happy! So as a stalking intruder, I parked myself at a Bar Stool and sipped a few glasses of Sauvignon Blanc with a bite to eat and just sat and watched. The layers of the backdrop were like painted scenes from a theatre, The Bridge, the Quay and Water, The Boats, the passing public, the Happy Families at the tables and the darting waitresses.

I had stayed around for a couple of hours before making my way up to the Opera House. The white arches looking like a gaggle of nuns in their white habits, very impressive. The view across the water to the Bridge complimented the one in the other direction.

Carrying a ruck sack around with me was getting a bit of a bind, so I quickly headed back to the hotel to stash it and return for another session of watching. On my return to the same restaurant, we British are creatures of habit, surprisingly someone was sitting at ‘my stool’ so I chose another. As I sat two things started simultaneously, on a big TV the Villa v Chelsea game kicked off, without any sound, behind a Singer with an accompanying guitarist who was going to serenade the Mothers. The football was going to be just as agonising the second time around, so I took more notice in the singer. Pretty good, so I was one of a couple that clapped for the first few songs, including an Old Boy about 6 inches away from me. I passed comment about the football and I had to admit I was a Villa fan. He then told me his story. Moving to Australia in 1970 with his two son’s from his home in Fulham he now lives in Sydney. He pointed to one man in front of the singer, “he’s a Chelsea fan” and his second son joined him and said that he was a Man United fan. “Oh and it’s my Grand-daughter who is singing”. The whole family were there to support her, uncles, aunties and cousins. A very pleasant afternoon completed with comical banter about UK and Australia.

Back in the Hotel, the scenic room wasn’t going to work as I realised that 20 feet away was an office block that would also see me waking up to the sunshine, so I had to close the heavy sun blinds for the duration. What a shame but saved me being indicted for exposure.

What a nice opener. My next event that I had arranged was the Sydney Bridge Walk. Although I am not afraid of heights, I do have the occasional dream about falling off buildings (no psycho-analysis please family!!), so was both looking forward to the climb and apprehensive.

I had passed a sign at the base of the Bridge yesterday that said “Unauthorised climbing on the bridge is an offence – Maximum Fine $2200”. For an ‘authorised’ climb you get charged $218, so more economical I thought.

The ‘Climb’ meeting building was in the last bit of brick building of the bridge before the steel work started. I was directed to a waiting area where I was one of 4 people doing the climb. Usually there are 14 people in a guided group and there can be multiple groups following each other. At the time I had chosen we were the only one’s on the bridge which gave the guide, Richard, plenty of time to talk individually with us and lots of stories of the landscape and the celebrities he had guided in his 5000 walks since the ‘walk’ opened in 1998.

There was no scope for error. First we were guided to strip down to the basics (My jeans came off and I just had a shirt on, yes…and underwear), we were then given a lightweight all in one suit. We were each given a breathalyser test (any alcohol means no walk) and told to walk through a metal detector. So nothing in pockets and no watches or bracelets. The locker key was placed around my neck inside the boiler suit. We were then led to an area to tackle up. First there was a safety belt around the waist and tightened. I was thinking, does my bum look small in this? It would be advantageous for the belt to have a large rear. Each item that was then added was double clipped to the clothing so there was no chance of anything dropping off; A handkerchief, A baseball cap (or to be pedantic a Bridge Cap), a Headset and Walkie Talkie receiver, A rain coat (which look suspiciously like a reserve parachute) and finally Sunglass ties.

We were given a test rig to attach our safety clasp to and then asked to climb up and down it, before we were led out to the real thing. Richard the guide was great and gave us perfect tuition and checked understanding. Basically from the next corridor we were attached to a steel wire from start to finish. The most dangerous thing was the climbing and descent of the metal ladders which there were quite a few, to get us to the walkways that led through the structure of the bridge. In a few places you had ‘duck or grouse’ steel works which you quickly learned from.

On the arch of the bridge the metal steps seemed easier to navigator than at Kings Canyon a couple of weeks ago and we had plenty of stop points to take in air and the views. Richard’s narration into our ears of the Bridge, the facts and figures, who built it, who makes the steel etc etc was booming through the headsets, until we got to a few vantage points towards the top. It was a still afternoon and despite the 8 lanes of freeway and 2 train lines below us, we could hear him really well without the headsets and then it seemed more like a conversation. That’s when he told us stories of celebrities like Usain Bolt and Robert de Niro. He also gave us the skyline commentary going 360 degrees to the main points of Sydney. One he pointed to was the blocks of apartments that face the Opera House on the side of the water. He said that when plans for the opera house were being approved a lady in one of the small apartments opposed it on the basis that it would reduce the price of her house. The tiny apartments are now worth $1.4M each.

So after the photo’s at the top, it was down the opposite side of the bridge and back into the main building. A great afternoon and something which will be a lasting memory amongst others in Sydney.

On the morning of the next day, I checked out of my hotel as my original plan was to move out of the city for the last 4 days before flying to Rarotonga, but I changed my plans and intend to now stay in Sydney. I have an Aparthotel, a few hundred yards away, from the afternoon but placed my bags in concierge and headed out for breakfast.

On the first main road I was waiting one side of a pedestrian crossing and spotted on the other side Steve and Marie Turner and daughter Jemma, some friends of mine and the boys went to school with their kids. They live 100 yards from my house. As they looked over I waved and I could see that they were looking away. The lights changed to Green, so they were getting closer, I waved, they looked elsewhere (probably thinking I was one of those pain-in-the-butt street sellers) and they even walked passed me despite me saying hello, until I shouted out, “Marie, it’s Dave!!”. Seeing people out of context is hard and you’re the other side of the world. But this is Sydney and you should be thinking ‘Neighbours’ right? We normally catch up when they are usually walking their dog past my front door. They had flown in that morning for a 2 and half week stay and to catch up with Jemma who has been working in Sydney for 6 months. What a very small world.

And the ApartHotel view is even better, a full view of the Bridge to one side and the Harbour and to the other a full city skyline, which at around 6pm is awesome.

Sydney and its residents are luring me in, rapidly.

Roo’s in the Grampians

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After the morning ‘flap’ with the petrol I loaded up on my latest travel soda favourite and a well deserved Ice Cream (it was already up to 26C outside the car), plugged in the iPad to the car and kicked off the country music. When I had asked for directions to the Grampians the tourist office gave me just one direction. “After the petrol station, just take that road”. Yes?…”for 2 hours”. That’s about 200 Kilometres I was thinking and my maps in the car were very sketchy. Oh well, I am on the road now and if I don’t hit civilisation by then, I will turn around and come straight back.

The outskirts of town although showing the ‘Beware of Kangaroo’s’ signs quickly turned to farm land. Huge fields with thousands of Sheep and Cattle. I stopped counting the sheep until I fell to sleep…not really. But I was a little disappointed at first, not for the landscape and the trees, which I think demonstrated all of the scenic qualities of the UK Counties I have ever seen, but for the fact of my logic. Cattle need to be penned in by fences, Cattle can’t get out, therefore Kangaroo’s can’t get in. So was it likely that I would see Kangaroo’s in the wild? …hmm. Small Townships passed by every 40 to 50 kilometre all named after great leaders of the past, but one thing stayed common was the farming. It just kept going and going. The ground was scorched away from the coast as they were still having a drought out here, but something must be working as things however parched kept growing. Each town must also have a development council that was trying hard to get the tourist to stop off. One that I passed through had a ‘Cheese World’…sadly I didn’t stop. I plodded on at a steady pace and when there was someone behind me I pulled over and when I was thirsty I had a drink, but it was nice to see the landscape and just to be driving out here, mainly by myself.

As I hit the Grampians, I passed through the first large town and headed for what I was hoping to be my restplace for the night, Hall’s Gap. I knew that I was getting closer to something when the speed limit dropped from 100 to 80 to 60 to 40. On the edge of town I caught out the corner of my eye a Roo. It looked different to the Wallabies I had seen before, but I turned around for a photo. In fact I had been looping back for the previous 30 Kms as the trees were playing tricks with my eyes thinking there was wildlife there that I was missing. The Roo’s were definitely Kangaroos and wild ones, munching on the grass lawns of a Motel. There were two of them. Due to the absence of Roo’s on my visit I would call this a ‘flock’, seeing two.

Off to the Tourist Office, again, they gave me the low down on 3 Motels. It wasn’t a large town and I went with my gut feel for the ones with the Kangaroo’s on show. By this time it was 4.30pm and I was in need of a cold beer so headed up the drive of the ‘Grampian Motel’. It had wide long lawns on both sides of the drive and the Rooms had their backs to the one side of the Rocks and looked out on others where the shadow and the setting sun was racing quickly uphill as daylight was coming to an end. The Reception was right in the middle with a small terrace with tables just in front . In my head I was already thinking through my introduction and request. ‘Nice place you have here, I spotted the two Roo’s from the Roadside, do you have a room for the night’. Very Biblical if Jesus had opened his Eye’s to a Roo. Ironically, the receptionist’s name was Christine. I digress. Words going through my head as I walked up the 5 steps to door and I wasn’t focussing on anything but the location of the door handle, when…boing…a 5 foot Kangaroo raised up by the side of me and just stared. I let out an expletive that should not be repeated and took a step back. “G’day, I see you’ve met Lemon Tree” cheerily Christine greeted. Kangaroo’s are not small. They have tiny Heads and short Arms (guess that why you never hear of them buying a drink) but from the neck down they are big, propped up by massive feet and a menacing tail. Lemon Tree’s claws were about 2-3 inches long, you wouldn’t want to pick a fight with one.

I checked in and ordered a beer. Lemon Tree moved back a table and lay down on the grass, staring at me. The reason for his naming was that his first encounter with the owner was as he was picking Lemon’s from a tree at the motel and the Roo scared the life out of him.

The view was quite amazing. The temperature in the shade was falling quickly and everything at that moment was perfect. My table photo really caught the moment as I remembered it. My eyes started spotting more and more Roo’s on the lawn, but keeping in mind where the big one was at 18 feet to my left. At that point his mate, known locally as ‘Mother’ sat down just behind me, which looked to me as though she was sitting in conversation on a small wall. She was looking at me, like I was looking at her. ‘You’re a Kangaroo’, ‘You’re a human, aren’t your feet small?’ They both hung around for a while before bouncing off.

The Motel was a draw for wildlife, White Cockatoo’s squawked their way up and down the valley, Emu’s came out in the dusky evening and bright coloured birds flitted from tree to tree.

In the evening I stayed for dinner in the restaurant and despite my David Attenborough tributes, Kangeroo meat was on the menu so I tried another portion. This time it was done like medallions of fillet steak, in a jus of Garlic and Red Wine. As I finished off my meal, which was delightful, I looked over my shoulder to see Lemon Tree staring directly at me. He might have known what I was eating or it could have been that I was directly in line with the Bread Basket. Christine slid one of the large Dining Room windows open and he pop his head in. She fed him a few slices of bread, but I still think that he was staring at me.

I bashed on my iPad for a while before leaving the restaurant, keeping my eye on Lemon Tree, or the lack of him as he had bounced off. I said my goodnights to Christine and walked straight out the door into Mother. Mother was a timid looking thing. I guess a number of people have said that just before getting a kicking. Christine came outside and coaxed Mother back up to the terrace and to give her a treat. I was clearly going to have to watch my step or move to something else on the menu.

So enthused by the Motel, I booked immediately for a second night. Roo’s on your back lawn? what more could I want.

I caught up on my blogs in the morning of the next day before heading out into the Grampians to get some views and some more fresh air. These are low level hills/rocks, but give some excellent views. And the area was really quiet. I must have past 5-6 people in 4 hours of leisurely driving. Heading up into the hills and then back down and out until it went flat again. This was a quite relaxing couple of days.

The Roo’s kept coming. The name for a group of Kangaroo’s is a ‘Mob’ which for me sits nicely with Lemon Tree and Mother from my short experience.

As I leave early on my way back to Melbourne the Roo’s were everywhere. I must have spotted 200 Kangaroo’s before leaving Hall’s Gap alone. It was a beautiful sunrise and with the hazy dust over the road, I had to have my eyes peeled for the bouncing bollards, as my car was quite small and they were quite big. I remember Newton’s laws of physics. It goes something like “…and the little object gets creamed!”.

So my check list of things Australian was getting smaller. I wasn’t in a rush to see a Crocodile and the only encounter with a spider was in Port Fairy as I quickly arranged its demise. Now for some different wildlife, I am off to Sydney.

Away with the Fairies…

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I’ve hired a car for a few days to head out of Melbourne as I was getting a bit stale and I haven’t been using my grey matter to either plan or panic. Melbourne was fine, but I had slipped into it being a cosy stay rather than seeing too much, so I thought, head out and see a bit more of Victoria. No, Victoria isn’t a woman, well she was, but I don’t want to get people back in the UK thinking that a Sheila was on the way home with me. Well not yet. Funny though, when I went out to Phillip Island a waitress served me in the Penguin Centre by the name of Sheelagh, which I thought was stereotypically hilarious and fitting of my infantile humour.

The Hotel arranged a small car for me, which was just a block away to walk. All good apart from me overlooking the size of my ‘long haul’ bag. As I would be out on the road and hopping in and out the car, I wanted to keep it out of sight. Luckily I corrected this en route by loading the boot from inside the car which surprised me when it worked. Anyway, where was I going ? My first challenge was getting out of Central Melbourne without hitting anything. No problem with the side of driving as it is just as the UK and I can read speed signs in ‘Kilometres’. A few signs would test me and a few different wildlife signs to amuse. The hardest thing was Melbourne’s Trams, which you have to accommodate them being in the centre of the roads. So, if you want to turn Right, you wait on the Left even if there is no traffic in either direction and when your lights go to Red, you can then turn sharply into the lane you need. I could see that even local drivers got out of position. I shouldn’t have panicked, everything worked well and I got out on to the freeway…where to…The Great Ocean Road! This is a scenic drive west across Victoria’s coastline as it hugs the rocks along the coast. In some sections you go inland and enter rainforest before getting back to the blue ocean.

You will see hopefully from the photos that the coast line is gorgeous. A bit like rugged Cornwall, but with an Italian Riviera mountain road. There are lots of European’s out here so I have been so pleased to see a mass of signs that say ‘drive on the left’.

The other part of the drive is the distance. Australia is a very big country and I think when they talk about driving distance they take the ‘country mile’ reckoning method. My plan was to get to a place called Lorne before I made any sort of comfort stop. I headed out for about 2 hours before I hit the Coast and when you see it, you need to stop anyway. The clouds had moved on and the blazing sun turned the sea a beautiful azure with lots of white froth from the waves crashing into the shores. It was really uplifting even though I did plug the iPhone into the car and bash out the Anthem followed by some heel kickin’ country.

So Lorne, you see lots of familiar English, Irish, Welsh and Scottish town names out here. Nothing like their counterparts, but I guess when the settlers came, they made their little corner of Australia sound just like home.

My plan was to get to the Lorne Tourist Information Office and find ideas for lodgings for the night. I didn’t know how far I would get, but thought, I need to be in a Motel or something similiar by 5pm, as it gets dark just after 6pm and its illegal to sleep in your car on the Great Ocean Road. This does get a bit hit and miss, but it’s only for one night at a time I kept thinking. Lorne provided me with lots of leaflets, although I couldn’t really trust the one assistant who enthusiastically put lodging papers together, as he was the spitting image of ‘Joe 90’. If you are too young or not from the UK, google it for a picture. He also told me of one he had recently been to with his school. I was expecting him to add..and Miss allowed us to take our shoes off and paddle in the sea!

Back in the car for a couple more hours and I arrived at Apollo Bay. What I had noticed is the laid back nature of the towns on the route. Buildings of wooden slatted weatherboards, but in pastel colours that make each place look quaint and like a holiday village. Decision!, I would stay here. The Info Office again helped me with a choice of 4 Motels. It was at this point that they explained that ‘Hotel’ didn’t mean Hotel. Hotel meant Restaurant or Pub. Got it. My Motel selection was completed by a 2 minute drive by and shooting for one that had a cute unique name, ‘The Coastal’.

It was right across the road from the Information Centre, as most things were in this small village. I parked up and went to a small reception to see if there was any room at the Inn? In luck! I filled out the registration card and then the little old lady behind the counter asked me a question which stunned me. “Would you like a glass of milk?” Maybe they had had a lot of Joe 90’s ?, or had a second job as an oesteo practitioner and could see that I needed it. So stunned I thought, had I misheard but she repeated it with a straight face. I refused with a smile, but then thought is this a customary thing?

The Motel was very quiet but had the basics that I needed.

Not leaving it too late, I headed to a Fish and Chip shop that the receptionist guided me to which which was in the harbour. On entering the shop, I was met with a fresh fish stand with a range of ‘todays catch’. It was still a takeaway, but you could have your choice Cooked in Batter or Fresh. Although there were some obvious ones like Salmon, Lobster and Prawns, I was guided to a Blue Grenadier. 20 minutes later a huge portion appeared. The fish was a bit like Haddock which is one of my favourites and the Chips were good, just there was lots of it. This meal finished me off for the day.

A quick check out in the morning and reception didn’t offer me a cookie to go with the milk, and a fairly early start, I loaded up the car and drove the 50 yards to a restaurant for breakfast. Trying to get filled up before heading out as a plan to change my eating habits which are all over the place at the moment. A simple Scrabbled Eggs and Bacon on sour dough toast. Service was with a smile, so I found it a real ache to sink the rubbery pile of egg just to be polite. Loaded up with more Lemon Soda, I am off.

This next bit of Coast Line and Drive also went into dense rainforest. I stopped first at Maits Rest for a boardwalk through the rainforest. The Ferns and Old Eucalyptus trees were massive. Victoria is supposed to be in a drought, but this was a moist environment with dark green leaves which blocked out the sunlight. I was also given a big nip by a mosquito which was as prominent as any of the ones in India. But in all this greenery, I couldn’t get Cornwall out of my head and one other which was the Brecon Beacons with their tall ferns.

I could see the journey was to be one of stop start to get a real feel for the landscape.

Next was Cape Otway which is a piece of cliff which holds Australia’s oldest Lighthouse. As I pulled off the main road down the narrower lanes, the thick bushy trees were mostly Eucalyptus. I wanted to take a photo of the dense trees just to remember the silver colours and green tops, so pulled over. Now one thing I remembered from our trip in 2011 to Teton National Park in Wyoming was that when one car stops, everyone stops because they think you have found wildlife. I had just got out the car and the next car stopped and a Japanese Girl ran back up the road shouting, “What is it? What can you see?” Like a lot of other people they were in search of Koala’s in the wild. Seeing them on Phillip Island was nice, but that was a park, so I would share in her euphoria if anything is found. After disappointing her with an explanation, she was off. With my photo done, I was 2 minutes behind them.

As the trees started thinning out I spotted a large brown blob over the roadway, so pulled over. Yes! A Koala in the wild! Not moving very much but there all the same. And another, and another… I was starting to get a knack for spotting them. More cars stopped and joined in the photo frenzy. In the end I thought that I must get on as I wouldn’t have time for anything else. Then a small one decided to climb down a tree right by the side of the road. Unlike Kangaroo’s, Koala’s don’t do anything quickly. A quick pose for the camera, snap!

Eventually on to Cape Otway and the Lighthouse and Telegraph Point. A burly guy at the Lighthouse was a mine of facts. Dates, distances, names etc etc. At one point I was the only visitor at the top so he asked where I came from and quickly pointed to the Glass which was made in Smethwick. I told him that I thought the Cable was probably made about a mile from where I grew up. When I gave him a reference point for Smethwick being the home of West Bromwich Albion, he shrugged his shoulders and said he had never heard of them. I should have said it was 5 miles from Aston Villa.

Onwards and westwards, the coast got more spectacular and a great photo opportunity at Princetown for the 12 Apostles. Huge chunks of Rock that have been separated after years of erosion and find themselves away from the main cliff line. After going through the visitor centre, the first warning sign was for Snakes. That focussed my mind quickly. Only an hour before I was going past some wetlands and one squirmed it’s way across the road infront of me. I slowed and made a detour to help it out. At the Apostles, everyone stopped and took a photo of the warning sign.

The Coastline was spectacular and in the dipping afternoon sun the Apostles shone a bright bronze colour with the mixed blue seas annointing their feet. With the wind up, the waves were crashing into the rocks and producing clouds of white spray.

Along the coast to my next stopping place and resting place, Port Fairy.

As I arrived at their Tourist Office the sun was quickly going down so I needed to make a rapid decision on a Motel. 4 options given, I plumbed for one that was fairly central. In the dusky light the town looked like something from a wild west movie and just missed people, horses and cattle. The tour leaflet announced it as ‘voted World’s most liveable town 2012’. I immediately thought of the ‘world’s best cup of coffee’. Over to my choice of Hotel, where the reception was a Bar. Yes, they did have a room, did I want to see it before making a decision? Odd thing??, No it’s only for one night. I drove around to the stable type room and parked outside. I got a feeling of seeing something like this on an old Australian Cattle film, but I think the cattle stayed inside on that occasion. This was very basic, but clean. It was akin to a cell at Melbourne Gaol but with curtains and complimentary soap.

The Motel, was supposed to be the oldest Inn in town, so I just accepted that I was taking part in something bigger. I ventured over the courtyard to their restaurant which was very busy, then very empty. Some kind of local pub crawl was in progress, which left 4 blokes in the Public Bar talking about the same things like a scratched record. The food was fine and I headed off to my room to catch up on some TV.

I was up and out of my room by 9.30am. The sun was already blazing. I tried to check out (I had already paid) but there was no one in the Pub. I left my key in the door and drove off. Drove off, 25 yards to the next corner for some breakfast. In the full sunlight this town looked really different, yes the buildings looked like Saloons and Horses would not have been out of place. Very English with small roundabouts at the ends of the High Street.

After breakfast I ventured down to the Coast which was less than a mile. I could see where the Best Town attributes came from. Tall lush green trees lined the walkways, the slatted timbers were beautifully painted and matching, roses crept along the white painted picket fencing infront of each house, that had long balustraded veranda’s. The side walks were green with grass and there was a lot of shade. The South Beach coastline was amazing. The waves were crashing in for the miles of shoreline that I could see to the right of the town. I think I have taken 200 shots of waves alone. The salty smell of the sea, the blustery wind and the damp air was exhilarating. People were turning up in cars for 20 minutes of fresh air recharge then driving off. This was a nice setting to have your Town. The harbour was by contrast serene, but the same beautiful houses had their back lawns down to the river. It reminded me of Amity from the Jaws film, with its big boats, boardwalks and in the sunshine everything looked great in bleached white. Even the river was a deep blue to contrast correctly with the boats.

So the Fairy People really had something special.

I looked at the map and from here I would say goodbye to the Coast as I was to head North.

My first fill up with petrol was not without a hiccup. I had noticed the Petrol Flap lever by my feet in the car and had tested it out 200 yards before getting to the Filling Station. At the pump though it did not work. I drove off to call the hire car company who suggest that if I had one person on the lever and a second at the flap this may work. Lone travelling has many downsides. I did hail a local to help me, who was suspicious that I was trying to scam him, but did quickly see that I had an issue. It worked with a bit of wiggling.

So, fully fuelled I was off, to The Grampians.

Melbourne

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My flight down from Brisbane was on Tiger Airways a cheap airline with no frills unless you want to pay for them. One ‘nice to have’ thing to pay for in advance is your luggage. I took heed of a warning on this from the Flight Centre agent back in Perth, so was adequately covered. As we lined up to check in, a ‘student’ type traveller had only opted for a small weight on the online ticket and had a bag of similar weight to mine. He had to pay 190 dollars more for his luggage and on an airfare ticket that probably cost him 50 dollars. However, if you expect these foibles then you live with them.

A pleasant flight with an upgraded seat to the emergency row for free (I should have paid 29 dollars for this privilege if I had requested it) but as they needed volunteers to assist in an emergency row they moved me for there for free. All the techniques that Innkeeper Monsieur Thenardier in Les Miserables would do, or Ryannair, take your pick.

We were soon down in Melbourne and as we walked from the plane it felt like the UK back in February. It was wet, cold and dark, even though it was just after 5.30pm. We were directed by cattle sheds at Terminal 4 into a caged open air area where there was one belt. It was more like a detention centre for prisoners, than a baggage welcome area. They finally came through and I called to the hotel again to see how the buses worked and with one more call I was heading across the bus lanes in search of a vehicle of a certain name. It came pretty quickly and left pretty slowly even though there were only 10 guests on board. The Chinese driver checked and re-checked all the locations for Hotels. One lady had tested his logic by saying a Hotel was on Queen Street not Queen Road. I guess he dropped her off somewhere.

All done, to Melbourne and I am in a Radisson. Quite trusted for services even though I had no idea where I was located in relationship to things, but the hotel welcome was a nice one.

I have quite a bit of travel planning to do while I am here for the Raratonga and USA legs of the trips, so all I wanted to do in Melbourne was to explore a few of the things which make it Australian and for what they are famed for. So think Aussie for a second and a quick top 10 in my head would include:

Cold Beer, Penal Colony, Cricket, Australian Rules Football, Prisons, Rivers/Marina and Coast Line, Local Indigenous Stuff, History Museum, Kangeroos, Crocodiles. Add to this my timely chore of finding a Laundry facility and topping up on some hygiene shopping, then this should give me a few things to aim at in Melbourne.

As for weather. Sunny on my first day but cold and gradually getting worse, with an odd early dusk time. I guess everyone starts early and finishes early, but a waitress the other day commented that the dark evenings are pain.

So I headed out on the first couple of days to see where I was and to see what I could do to top up my ‘think Australian, think Melbourne’ and to see what I could find.

Melbourne is a pretty big city that has spread around the coastline and with all the facilities that you would find in a modern western metro area. Yes, they have the River and Marina, although I have been up there twice and it was blowing a gail, freezing and all they restaurants had battened up their hatches. I jumped on the City Circle Tram which does a complete loop of the city with audio commentary to help tourists and it was free. Melbourne has lots of old trams, but fit in really well with the new and old buildings. Down by the river there are lots of late 1800’s early 1900 buildings with the metal artistry on the first and second floor landings. They also have some very state of the art office and apartment buildings.

Melbourne is a very wealthy area from its gold mining heritage. From ‘Docklands’ where the Marina is, a wide bridge spans the river. The bridge reminded me of one in Newport, South Wales, which I regarded as unfinished and an eyesore (two concrete pillars, that do not support anything). I would later see a more spectacular bridge heading out of town.

I head up to the Melbourne Museum to see if there was any local history that I can see. A bright modern building, but I only had an hour before it was closing so had to speed around. You do get the sense of link between Australia and Britain from all the pictures. Lots of migrant workers making the the sail ship journeys to make something new for themselves. I didn’t realise that Melbourne made its name from Gold Mining and a rush of migrants wanted to come to have their share in it (plus a few penal reformed inmates). A sort of latter day social security tourism but with more zero’s on the cheque if you struck gold. The museum had a replica of the first big single nugget of gold that was found, a massive 2200 ounces, it looked the size of two footballs and by todays value would be about £2 Million. I guess one Premier League footballer would put that into the shade quite quickly and the miners would have to work harder for their bounty.

One absence I have noticed down here compared to the other places I have visited is the Aboriginal People. Not sure why that is ?

So back to my Aussie bucket list. Penal reform! you can’t go to Australia and not visit a Gaol, it is a tradition. I made my way up to the Old Melbourne Gaol to see what it was like for some of our former countrymen, as they continued their trades in this land of plenty. The tour started with being ‘booked in’ as a criminal by an assertive officer and led to the overnight lock up. The men were separated from the women, the door was slammed shut and locked, before ‘click’ the light was turned out. The prisons were in use to as recently as 1994. It is good to see that their bed and breakfast was as grim as the crimes that they committed. Although looking at the facilities, I think a couple of my Hotel’s could be likened to the Gaol.

The Prison was the final lock up for the infamous Ned Kelly, the ranger outlaw who plundered travellers making their way across the country. When you see the Gaol itself and their tiny rooms, and a regime of lock-up in solitary for 23 hours a day with 1 hour in the yard in solitary walk you have to wonder why they would commit again. Some of them like Ned Kelly meeting the hang man at the end of their stay whose choice was made for them. As I looked along the stone walkway of the dark dank levels of the Gaol you did get a historic feeling, however righteous their stay was. I have not mentioned anything about open air prisons so far, so let me next turn to a great afternoon and baptism on the Saturday to ‘Australian Rules’ football.

I looked up on the Internet who was playing, so at least I could blend in with the local side. I know from our own football, that being in the wrong place and saying the wrong thing is at your peril. Today I would be supporting Essendon, a local Melbourne side, playing a team from Sydney, GWS Giants. As I approach the ground the local colours were obvious as there was a sea of Red and Black. I queued for a ticket with the locals and was then guided to a pretty good seat in the 3rd tier over the halfway line. The game had already kicked off while I was waiting in the queue, but it must happen a lot as there were huge screens on the outside of the ground to keep everyone informed. Luckily, I was on the end of a row, so didn’t have to ask 15 burly Aussies swigging beer to move to let a late Englishmen into his seat.

And the rules of the game? I hadn’t a clue. It really looked like a prison yard riot, with pushing, shoving and the occasional elbow. But I learned quick. I could sense that even some of the locals had to have the rules explained as the referee made the usual wrong decision against the local side. So let me paint a picture. The stadium was huge and had a roof, the pitch was Oval and about 180 metres long by about 150 Metres. The roof was about 100 metres off the ground so no chance of anyone hitting it. Each team has 18 players and there are 9 Umpires. At each end there are 4 Goal posts. If you kick through the middle two posts you get 6 points and if you kick through the outer posts you get 1 point. If you catch the ball cleanly in two hands which has been kicked to you, you can have a free kick to continue the game or have a shot at goal. The ball could be hit with the fist to pass or kicked and it didn’t matter if you dropped it. Then add the fact that everyone is trying to get to the ball or muscle you off it. 4 quarters of somewhere between 25 and 40 minutes. I didn’t understand this as I was sure the first quarter was 39 minutes on the clock ??

As for catching and kicking, I was surprise at how poor they were at this. I wondered what the Aussies were thinking ? I soon found out. The abuse that the Home side got in the first 2 quarters by the fans confirmed my observation. They couldn’t catch or kick and had very few tactics. Half time they were trailing by 18 points. These are high scoring games, so 36 to 54 at half time was not unusual. One by one the fans started shouting ever increasingly witty insults at the players to the amusement of the other fans.

By the second half I was starting to get into the rules and know when to clap and when to sigh. But a total change around in the second half saw Essendon take a 20 point lead before GWS scored again. The locals ending up winners comfortably by 40 points. Yes, there was the expected bruising and bust ups, but surprisingly enjoyable.

My next thing of things Australian was a visit and tour of the home of Aussie cricket at the Melbourne Cricket Ground, the home of Melbourne Cricket Club and the Boxing Day venue for test matches between Australia and England when played down under. Aussies are very proud of their Cricket and its heritage. The MCG is a mecca for Australians and the tours are run by members of the MCC who, donned in their Club Striped Jackets and Ties, pay their dues by volunteering to take tourists around the ground. We had a nice old boy ‘Peter’ who must have been 85 years old but shuffled extremely quickly around the ground, stopping every now and then to give facts and figures.

Kangaroo’s have been sorely missing on my trip to Australia, so I decided to see if an arranged trip could give me a better chance. Although the trip to Phillip Island was principally about seeing Penguin’s there was a write up about seeing Roo’s and Kaola’s. Turns out that the handful of Roo’s were Wallabies that are a slightly different and smaller species. The Kaola’s were in a park but I did get a photo or two.

Th Penguin march was a daily home coming at dusk of Little Penguins, the worlds smallest at just 12 inches high, who on an agreed confidence, leave the water in their thousands to go home to their holes in the sand dunes. Sadly no photo’s of this one, but to see them making their waddle over the rocks and up an embankment and knowing exactly where to go was fun to watch. They were really pint sized. A worthwhile trip.

Note added when I got to back to the UK. A letter had arrived at home from the Melbourne Police to say that I had not paid a Toll Road Charge. It sort of turns the tables on a convict leaving Melbourne and returning to the UK!

Brisbane

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I hadn’t planned for being in Brisbane, it came as a consequence of lacking options for getting out of Alice Springs and the plane was at least going East which I felt was going to hold the last three weeks of my Australia tour.

Anna from Italy joined me on the flight to Brisbane. It amazes me the confidence of kids, even when travelling alone. Anna has 2 weeks left then flies home to Mama and Papa in Northern Italy after being away for 9 months, before starting University in September. She has backpacked her way around New Zealand and Australia with half of the baggage weight that I have.

Into Brisbane on a flight which I couldn’t finish the Movie ‘Les Miserable’, which as usual was leaving me with a lump in my throat. A beautiful story of love, hope and passion. Anyway, I am not Claudia Winkelmann and I am not here to give you movie critiques. Brisbane! A small domestic airport, which means not far to walk. Anna and I walked passed the baggage area, so with a bit of help we were re-directed down an escalator, but despite the intelligence of a 19 year old and the wisdom of a 52 year old, we couldn’t see the natural way out. We could see the belt. We had a quick laugh and then looked for obvious exit signs, which were there but not fitting our logic. Automatic doors opened up at the base of where the escalators had dropped us. I guess you had to be there…

With bags in hands we said our farewells and I headed for a Taxi. My Taxi driver was wearing a turban, so I thought I would go for the friendly conversation. “Forgive me for asking but are you a Sikh?”, he smiled but didnt know what to say as I think he was expecting a shallow follow up comment about his turban. But as I explained that I had been to Amritsar and the Golden Temple, it turned out to be his home town, so his smile got bigger. The Temple was one of my big memories of India and he could see that I was being respectful to his religion, so when I brought up the Wagah Border closing he could see I wasn’t playing with him. $50 lighter after the taxi fare (he smiled when he told me the price too) I was at the Hotel.

The afternoon and evening blended into one, as I hadn’t really got the energy to get out and do any reconnaissance. It can wait for tomorrow. I started playing with the Hotel wifi, which I could see was a bit slow, but the staff were friendly and helpful so I didn’t say anything. I got on with rendering down the hundreds of photos and tried to remember the detail of Uluru which was there, but not necessarily in the right order.

In the morning, I was fairly alert so continued with my Blog and then tried to upload the photos…oops. Remember the line from Jaws “I think we’re going to need a bigger boat!” I was going to need more power in my WiFi. My family and friends had been waiting patiently for the next instalment. I did get some advice from Reception but they advised that their service was only 256k, which in Internet terms is the ‘Turtoise’, I needed the ‘Hare’ on this occasion. They pointed me to the Tourist Office a couple of blocks down and I thought I would plug them for options.

A light breakfast behind me I headed out. I seem to be staying in a business district next to the river, quite pleasant. When you are booking on the fly it is sometimes hard to guage what type of location you will be in. A couple of short blocks down and there it was. Tourist Offices are under played. I think I could count on one hand the number of times I have used one in the UK. They do have a lot of info at their finger tips. For wifi I was guided to try the Brisbane Library. Bang on first time, home run, touchdown, goal. A great service for free. I had 140 photos to upload. While it was doing that I finished my blog and checked for all of the auto corrections that bring up stupid words out of context. Thank you Brisbane Library. It took a while to get everything finalised and ‘published’ and I am away. So now what? The guide says that the South Bank is supposed to be a nice promenade.

As soon as I stepped onto the bridge crossing the river, I got a sense of London Bridge and its crossing of the Thames to our South Bank. A nice promenade, cafes, arts centre and of course a Big Wheel. Their Southbank had been put together for the 1988 Brisbane Expo. Lots of cafe’s, park areas, shade and sun terraces and a huge swimming pool surrounded by a white sandy beach. And really importantly it was being put to good use in the lovely sunshine.

As I write this part of the blog I am at a Bar overlooking the large man made beach and pool with Bars and Cafes all around, right next to river and it dawns on me. To be a great city, you need a great river and a good south bank! My feedback to my birth town Birmingham is to cut a trench that follows the original River Rea about 200 metres wide and link it to the canal network. Sorry for all the neighbourhoods that would disappear and the thousands of homeless but there is nothing like a good beer with a nice view. A bit shallow? OK, make it a deep trench! Brisbane that afternoon was growing on me. I wasn’t expecting it to be this relaxing. Instead of the usual pigeons pecking on the sidewalk there were Curlews strutting around and Black and White birds like large Wagtails.

At that point I realised that I was finally having time to stop and stare, the opposite of the famous poem by William Henry Davies. I urge you to look it up and think what the opposite might feel like. This afternoon in this Bar in Brisbane I am feeling engaged with stuff. The breeze and the noise that it is making, the children splashing in the pool, the colour of the creeping rhododendrums making their way up the curled arches over the walkway of the promenade, the high palm trees saying ‘hi’ to the blue sky, with a city skyscraper background. Friends meeting in the bar and having a few laughs over the most basic of conversations. It is always around us, but we just need time to absorb it and enjoy it. French, German, English, Australian…You have to have time to listen and enjoy everything and everybody.

I spent about 4 hours on this side of the Brisbane River, just watching and walking.

The next day was the same, but I walked off in the opposite direction to see more of city around the bend of the vast river. I was feeling a bit tired as I awoke at 5am to see Aston Villa thrash Sunderland 6-1 but at same time the result gave me a lift for the morning.

The City is a modern one. To think that this was one of the original penal colonies and there are signs of old Victorian buildings, but quickly being hidden by the new Brisbane. A statue of Victoria stands in the centre, but this city is about the new Australia. Towering shiny high rise office blocks that fit well with the river, freeways on stilts that hug the north bank, surrounded to the South by Mountains and the North by Sea. I would say in a snap judgement that this is a nice place to work and live, not to have a vacation.

I make a criss-cross route across their purpose built Pedestrian and Cycle bridge, circle the Beach area and then take the River Catamaran back to my original starting point give or take a half mile. Wherever you look everything seems to fit with each other.

My route also took in the Library again to get my WiFi fix before heading back to the hotel. Back in the Hotel I stopped off in the lounge to check for one further bit of info of the internet, but then had my first run in with the Receptionist over getting access. I could have it for Free in my room, but it isn’t complimentary in public areas. She quite clearly didn’t get that wifi is like water. She was thinking that it was like a fine Malt and something I would pay a premium for. Don’t moan I thought. I just shook me head at her comments. Her colleague offered me the access code that I had been given freely for the last 2 nights. It was poor anyway, so made me pleased that I was moving on. Finally I went up to my room and found that my bedroom had not been tidied by housekeeping that day. Back down to reception, not to complain, just to say I could live with it, if I had my soda’s topped up in the mini bar and fresh towels. Duly arranged. I went back up to find water coming out of a ceiling and a pool on the floor. Back down…I shouldn’t have moaned about the wifi. The wifi man was probably also the plumber and the soda man. I moved room for the last night into a slightly better chambre with a marginally better view. The only issue was that every 20 minutes a buzzer went off in an ajoining wall which woke me about 10 times in the night.

On the morning of my departure I had the invite to respond to a customer survey that everyone gets in rooms but doesn’t fill out. I ended my one with…if you need any more information on running a better wifi you can email me at…

Going downstairs, I was greeted by the same awkward Assistant that played hardball on the wifi. But this was a new day, the Goldfish had obviously circled her bowl and it was all smiles for me this time around. I played along and checked out.

My memory of Brisbane are caught in the photo’s.

I am pleased I stopped off in Brisbane, not for any great tourist reason, but to note that I have visited The City and found it to be quite…well, nice. And as Forrest Gump said “That’s all I have to say about that”.

Dead Centre in the Red Centre

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After the mellow introduction to Australia through Perth, I headed out to Alice Springs on a Qantas Flight to the centre of the Country, The Red Centre. It gets its name after the colour of the rock which in the sunshine turns the iron oxide deposits bright red.

After a short flight of about 3 hours we touched down in Alice Springs Airport, a very sleepy backwater compared to the Airports that I had visited so far. The plane turned right off the runway and was immediately at the terminal. Thinking about it, it was a bit like Kochi airport in India, but set in a desert. We piled off the plane onto the tarmac and walked 100 yards into the Arrivals Terminal. One thing I noticed as we landed was that there were no perimeter fences to the Airport. It sort of went, Desert, Desert, Airport! No major greetings of security and a single luggage belt soon brought in my bag. I phoned the Hotel and had one of those nice simple intimate discussions. “Hi I am stopping with you, do you have a Curtesy Bus to the Hotel or should I get a Taxi?”. Response, “where are you standing?”. “By the luggage belt”. “Turn around and face the Exit. You see the bus outside with a band around it?, that’s it! And see the guy standing in the corner to your right ? (20 yards away) buy a ticket from him and then get on the bus”. It was Oh so easy and you sensed a small provincial approach. I was expecting her to say ‘tell Dad I’ll be late home for tea’. If Skippy the Bush Kangaroo had to to be re-launched, Old Man McGregor would fall down his Well in this sort of place.

The Airport Bus made a quick meander around a few hotels and then dropped me at the Chifly Alice Springs Resort. Alice is a little Oasis of just 25,000 people. 1500 Kilometres from Darwin at the top of Oz and 1500 Kilometres from Adelaide at the bottom to the south. And unlike Dorothy’s route to see the Wizard, you would need to ‘Follow the Red Brick Road’ in any direction out of Alice Springs. I read a note to guests in the introduction to the hotel that said, “make sure you fill up your car before leaving Alice Springs!” Over the next 2 days I would understand why they say that.

The Resort itself reminded me of an American holiday resort from the 50’s that you might see in a movie. Not sure if people come here for the same experience, but there were many groups of people who were on some kind of tour, mostly locals (i.e. within 1000 Kilometres). The rooms reminded me of a US Motel. The sort of place that you would have seen in the movie ‘No Country for Old Men”. But very unlike its upmarket Hotel cousins on the Coast it had good WiFi. I had an easy evening and tried out the Hotel’s restaurant where I had a T bone steak that was the most beautifully cooked piece of meat that I have had for many years. I was tempted by the Fish dishes, Barramundi Fillet, Barramundi with Buerre Blanc, Spicy Barramundi…but guessed that it was unlikely that Barry the Fish could be caught locally without the presence of a lot of water, so gave it a miss. I also hopped over the Kangaroo option for another day. It was to be an early night tonight as the tour bus was to pick me up at 6am and I also needed to decant my large travel bag into something smaller as the tour had a weight limit which was well under half that I have been travelling with.

My tour guide appeared on cue and I joined our mini coach and trailer that was going to be like a second home for the next 3 days, under the mentoring of Mel and Jerry of ‘Adventure Tours’. The bus made its stops to top up the Tourists to a total of 14. Mel doing here fourth ‘maiden’ tour to Uluru was being herself mentored by Jerry as the seasoned guide, but as we would find out it was a continuous relay of inputs that made the trip memorable and enjoyable. With all people accounted for we were off and we soon got a sense of Jerry’s infectious personality which she stamps on a road trip. If we thought we were still snoozing at 6.00am, by 6.10am Jerry’s whooping introduction meant that you were clearly and firmly awake.

Let me introduce the rest of the group, so you get a feel for our make up. It is easier to remember them in seat order from left to right and from back to front. This was made very easy for me by Jerry having everyone do a quick introduction on a headset speaker as we were travelling along. I think the questions were, Name, Age, A bit about yourself, What is your favourite colour, your favourite food, the colour of the underwear that you were wearing and a funny story. This was a great icebreaker and killed a bit of the time of the very long drive out to the ‘Rocks’.

So we had Aki from Japan, who was working in a Sandwich Shop in Sydney but by trade was a Nurse back in Tokyo. Maximillian, “Max for short” who was German. Erme and Martin from Innsbruck in Austria (who were a little bit younger than myself), Lenka and her Mum Dana (who was my age) from the Czech Republic. I put the age thing in so you get a feel for the split of ages which were very young to healthily mature like myself.

Next there were a lovey-dovey couple in Alex and Melanie (a second one) from Germany who I think were in their 30’s. Hannah a young student from Kiel in Germany who had a cold for the complete trip. Samia a young French-Algerian student from Lille in France. Anna a young student from Italy, but so close to the Austrian border that she spoke German and last but not least Gemma and her partner Scott in their mid and late twenties who were from South Manchester but both have been working in Sydney.

As the trip went on we would see these great personalities come through and the group gelled well with each other and with Mel and Jerry.

My introduction included the Red Boss briefs and the being left at the Great Wall of China which I was looking not to repeat. It was a fun exercise.

Now my order of events in each day may not be chronologically correct as I didn’t take a single note on the trip, so bare with me on the facts. The photo’s help to piece together events, but one Red Rock photo tends to blend into another, but looking at them I think I know how I was feeling and whether I was hot, cold, thirsty, hungry, inquisitive, tired, completely knackered or awe inspired. Put this together with a hundred moments of laughter as a group and the story is complete.

One of the regular parts of the tour was the Pits stop which didn’t really need a ‘T’, but allowed the occasional topping up of water or the opposite.

So first there was the Camel Farm. This was a Pit stop and an opportunity to jump onto a Camel for a ride. Yes I tried it and can now understand what childbirth is about. I have the highest respect for Lawrence of Arabia. 4 and half hours of film was long enough but riding one of these for weeks across a desert would be a real @£$% ache! (Arse, Ball or Calf, you choose). The stop also had a small Wallaby enclosure, so at least I have seen a Kangaroo in Australia. This was my reserve experience as I still want to see one in the wild.

Jerry had a habit of shouting, rather enthusiastically, without notice when something of interest was about, so when the ‘Eagles’ Eagles, Eagles’ call was made, it shocked everyone to look, if like me, in the wrong direction. The Eagles were feeding on my first in the wild sighting of a large Kangeroo. Well that’s nature I guess. The following shout of ‘Dingo’s’ was a really good one, but I think the Dingo’s heard her, as we come to a quick stop and the pack high heeled and run off.

We pulled up for firewood foraging at the side of the road. Looking at the spindly trees that all looked as though they had been through a bush fire (more frequent and arranged than you would think, for the good), but we got on with finding some small and some rather large branches that were placed on the top of the trailer. I must admit that I had my eyes on every footstep to ensure something ‘snake-like’, ‘insect-like’, ‘poisonous-like’ didn’t forage on me. The exercise was very cathartic and you felt better for doing something yourself that would be used later in the day.

Another drive on and then “CAMEL!!” shouted Jerry, as there were 4 Feral Camels walking through to our right. Everyone got off the bus to go find them, but they were very quick footed. We would get another taste of Camel tomorrow.

We carried on to our campsite at Canyon Creek, for our jointly prepared sandwich stop for lunch. All well orchestrated and even the most basic of sandwiches tasted great. Not having seen the full itinerary, I didn’t know what to expect on the tour.

Next we were back on the bus for the ride off to Canyon Creek itself. The rocks were impressive, a bit like a Wild Western desert scene where John Wayne is in a shoot out with the bad guys. Well, no bad guys other than the heat, but two Sheriffs to guide us and coax us up to the top of the Canyon and the walk around. Walkings easy isn’t it? From the car park and after our safety talk of the do’s and don’ts we had an immediate climb of about 400 rock steps to the summit. I was feeling the effects of the heat after just 100 steps and quickly slipped back through the group. You need lots if water and lots of air into your body and I should have worn a lighter T shirt to get air round my body and had a lighter backpack. Other than those factors I was having a great time. The views were good and I didn’t waste any opportunity to capture them. The brightness of the rock in the sunshine and the back drop of blue sky and foreground of green trees and bushes made for some nice angles, so apologies for the number of photo’s. I culled at least 4 times this amount for the cut. When I got to the top, my second breath kicked in so I was fine for the rest of the walk. Going around it was so nice to have short conversations with most of the group and to have a laugh along the way. From their experiences which in some cases put my 3 and half months of trip into the shade, mostly backpackers, I gained more insight of Australia. I have found that people like different things and Australian towns can be revered or hated from one person to another. The short stories also brought out the personalities of the people and you would slowly see what made them tick or just converse. If they didn’t want to talk, I tried to respect that too.

We made a circular route down into the Canyon and then back up again to the opposite side before making a final descent to the car park. It wasn’t in the same scale as the Grand Canyon, but the sense of it being isolated from the vantage points was apparent.

I guess we got back to the Campsite and our pitch in the hills by about 6pm just as the sun was dipping. Chance for a shower to clean the orifices of the dust. The light was going down, but it should have been no excuse for walking into the ‘Female’ Door rather than the ‘Male’ door. I quickly corrected myself when I bumped into Hannah. My door was 10 feet away. As I entered what was like a small portacabin with a few sinks, 2 loos and 2 showers with soft curtains, both of the curtains came back at the top and two Monks (from Thailand) in tandem showed theirs faces and in unison, said hello! It was so funny to hear them but I remained respectful that they were monks in orange robes and needed me not to laugh. Returning to the campsite, the fire was well under way and the kitchen area was active with Mel preparing some hearty food. Spaghetti Bolognese, a Vegetable something a bit like a Ratatouille and Jerry prepared some campfire bread, which someone will have to remind me of what it was called. It was sweet, herby, garlicy and quite delicious. After this all I could think of was bed, but not before ‘The Box Game’. The one where you pick up an every decreasing cereal box in your teeth but you could not bend your legs or touch the ground. I declined on the basis that I didn’t think I could bend without passing out, but some excellent efforts from Alex, Anna, Erme and the final champion Aki, who had a very organised Japanese technique akin to bowing or as I commented, from years of practice of picking up chopsticks from the floor. Aki went on to demonstrate the art of Japanese courtesy bowing and her rendition of ‘Very Sorry’ which was the lowest right angled bow was hilarious. Aki understood western humour and the way that Japanese customs appear to the west. Put together with a very sharp wit and great use of the English language, Aki was a bundle of fun to be around.

It was time for the Swags to come out. Swags are all weather sleeping mats, which are thick tarpaulin covers that zip both sides but hold a 2 inch mattress. Together with a sleeping bag this was it. Sleeping under the stars around the camp fire. I think I was one of the first to drop off (I guess 2 minutes after my initial spin which is a common bed habit for me). I continued to wake up through the night and must have spun until our wake up call of 5.45am (it came too quickly). Breakfast cereals were out on the table and we had 30 minutes to eat, wash and get packed up.

We were on the road at first light with a very long drive ahead of us to Uluru.

The first contact of a red rock sticking out the sands was affectionately known as Buluru, as most people mistook it for Uluru. My head was filled with Close Encounters of the Third Kind, where Richard Dreyfuss was ‘losing it’ over a shape in his head that he has trying to recreate. The sky was blue and it was Hot, very Hot with an amazingly low humidity that drained you of water. You needed a hat, you need sunglasses, you needed a fly net around your face as the flies wanted your body water and you needed water if out for 15 minutes …oh and lots of suncream. This was a holiday and we were enjoying ourselves, honestly.

Mel guided us to a vantage point at Buluru across the main road which was void of traffic and you could look in either direction at the straight white lines for a very long way. Reminds me of Aki’s introduction story of walking in a remote area and lying down in the road to look at the stars with her friend. Unfortunately she fell asleep until an oncoming vehicle woke her up. To one side of the Red sand dune was Buluru away into the distance and the other direction was a Salt Lake. This would not be the place to get lost. To think that the area was once an inland sea is incredible.

We made our way to the second camp site at Uluru. It used to be called Ayres Rock but as the land has been given back to the Aboriginal People it has reverted to its time honoured name and now it is politically incorrect to use the settlers name for it. Time for a few snacks at the store before we head into the campsite, but Chicken Burgers on the barbie for lunch, which went down very well. The afternoon was dedicated to Uluru. The walk around Uluru was 10 kilometres in 2 hours of blistering heat and dry humidity or 2 hours to do half of it. I went for the shorter option as I favoured a stroll with photo opportunities rather than the extra endurance test. I was surprised I was the only one doing the half, but I was dropped at the far side of Uluru rock and had a very peaceful walk at my own pace and on my own.

This is the land of the Anangu People.

The flies were a real nuisance and the hat netting blocked your view. I don’t know how many I ate. Every camera shot was a bind (net up, flies in, brush flies away, sunglasses off, flies in, brush flies away, click, sunglasses on, flies in, brush flies off, net down, fly inside net, net off, flies in, brush off, net down…simple really), but I did take lots of photographs. It was surprisingly green around the rock, so there must be underground water to supply the roots. When you come across one of the many Gum Trees, they have a beautiful smooth silver bark and with the drooping leaves against the blue sky and red rock, made you want to take lots of photo’s. I promise the people back home that they will not be subjected to evenings of the same photo’s. I did subject the family to 200 slides of Austrian Mountains and Waterfalls back in the late 80’s. My belated apologies.

One very strange bit of the walk was when I arrived to a small waterhole which had the mythical story attached to the rocks formation and as I was reading some low height information boards about the story, a soft aboriginal chanting started in the background. It really felt like it was in my head and not coming out of a speaker. Made me look around and then laugh to myself.

As I was reaching the final stretch of my half walk, Max and Anna passed me in true youthful spirit, having completed 5 Kms more.

The final bit of the Uluru tour was an explanation and short walk back to parts of the Rock where the Aborginal people had made their markings on the walls. Although feint against the red and white rocks, it was something that I had wanted to see. In addition to this the Aboriginal ‘countries’ around Australia are also famous for their dot paintings. The paintings each tell a story or part of a story about their life and culture. From those of you that follow my Tweets and some of my earlier posts, I have an interest in how we learn, we behave and how we bring values into our culture. The paintings on walls of caves and on canvas are the Aboriginal way of getting their culture across. Where do you get water?, how do people get on together?, what is the right way to behave? Each painting is unique to their way of life and although we as non-Aboriginal backgrounds will never be able to fully understand their meaning it is fascinating all the same. The local law is the Tjukurpa and it is something that we could try to emulate better in our society. Of course there are indigenous people that operate outside of the rules, but they are not regarded as part of the true Aboriginal people.

Off to a vantage point for the setting of the sun on the rock. We were quite early and took a point close to the front to view the changing colour of the rock and the amazing skylines. Of course there was also the opportunity for the younger ones in the party to ‘jump over the rock’. The photo’s will explain.

The tourists arrived in their masses, some wined and dined with champagne and dressed up to the nines, others like us just savouring with a few nibbles and a beer. The sun went down and we all disappeared.

We raced back to the campsite for showers and then a barbecue meal. The meat for the barbecue was Kangaroo, Camel Sausages and Beef Steak. All the things that you get out here in the land in between Alice Springs and Uluru. Mel was the chef prepared heaps of meat for us and it went down well with a plate of salad and fresh coleslaw. The Kangaroo had been marinating in a sweet sauce and was a cross between beef and pork to taste. The Camel sausages were firm and meaty, akin to a thick cumberland sausage and the beef steak was, well, beef steak. This had been another long day and although we sat around the camp fire for about an hour, everyone was thinking about their swags and getting to bed. With another early wake up of 4.50am and on the road in 30 minutes having had breakfast and cleaned up camp, bed called and everyone answered.

The night was a bit colder, but made for a good nights sleep, however short it was.

Rise, wash, breakfast, clean, on the road. I think the group nailed this, even though there was very little conversation as everyone was still asleep. We headed up to a viewing point at Kata Tjuta, which from a man made walkway through the brush you could see Uluru Rock way out but close to the point of where the sun would rise and to the left of us Kata Tjuta a range of 36 rounded rocks that would be slowly lit up by the sun. Kata Tjuta would be our final walk for the tour.

Click, Click, Click. I must have taken 50 photos of the sunrise alone as the skies changed from a cold sky blue to orange, red and white and then the sun was up and the rocks turned their red lights on too.

Jerry wailed to the group to get back on the bus as it would give us a head start on the walk before all the other tourists. It was a good plan, as the more isolated you are in this region the more beautiful it looks.

This time I voted for the longer circuitous route of the rock, which would make its way up and down before entering an area between two of the highest rocks in Kata Tjuta and climbing steeply to a ‘saddle’ between the stones. The photos will give you a sense of the walk. The rocks do not rise that high compared to the Mountains and Hills that we have in Europe, but in a flat land, they do give a nice panorama.

A highlight was spotting a Euro Kangaroo with its joey. About 75 yards away but a little photo opportunity. At least I got to see it bounce off. There are supposed to be millions of Kangaroo’s but not many of my travelling companions had seen them. Alex had been travelling across Australia since February and had only seen 3. So in 48 hours, I had seen one in captivity, seen a dead one, seen a live bouncing one and eaten one. A good compromise I think.

We had the group photograph at the top which I will find a way of posting on an update to the blog and then made our way down. One last vantage point to capture the Kata Tjuta and we were back on the bus. Everyone was tired and looked for anyway possible to rest their heads for a journey back to Alice Springs. A first pit stop for supplies brought a welcomed ice cream and a cold lemon drink as we refuelled for the massive drive back. The sun was already heating up the bus, so getting back on the road with the air conditioning was the best bet. A further food stop to eat the sandwiches that we had prepared at 5am this morning, but most people were finding it harder to eat. When you are tired you just want to have a slurp of drink then sleep.

So the final leg and the music requests were made. I wasn’t shy in offering my anthem, you’ve got it, Ellis Paul’s “The World Ain’t Slowin’ Down”, duly played, which was a nice end to my trip and I hope I didn’t bore everyone else. Jerry and Mel joined in with my sabbatical with arm waving fashion as I took a video clip of the bus as the song was being played. Thanks to everyone for that moment. I am not sure they would know what it meant to me.

The Kilometres just flew by and we were in Alice around 5pm.

This was an excellent few days that was brilliantly executed by Jerry and Mel of Adventure Tours. I met some lovely people on the bus. My lasting memories are with Aki who was one of the funniest and genuine people I have met, Erme and Martin who although did not speak much English joined in with everything with a smile and when we pit stopped, with a Coffee (very Austrian), Max who was the ‘go do it man’ with German enthusiasm (I will remember his poor execution at breaking a fire log on day one and breaking his big toe), delightful Lenka and Mum Dana. Lenka was translating all the time for her mother (my boys back home to note how to look after dad when he doesn’t hear something!), Alex and Melanie who I think noticed we were there but had eyes for each other. Alex had a very quick wit. Young Red Headed Hannah, who coughed and blew for 3 days and complained of everyone snoring! Samia, our cute little French girl with a husky voice, and the bouncy and irrepressible Anna from Italy. If someone had to be out at the front it was Anna, who smiled from start to finish of the trip. And last but not least ‘Young’ Scott who looked as though he was just out of high school and charming Gemma, a delightful couple from South Manchester. They acted exactly as a married couple should (even though they aren’t) which was great fun for the rest of us and a pleasure to be around.

And I can’t end without a final comment for Mel and Jerry. Mel was so polite and didn’t whip us as much as she should, which was nice for us. And Jerry. You need something or someone on a trip to forget that you have travelled 1500 Kilometres. The button was on full volume for 3 days and her humour was spot on. I’ll echo my thoughts again, a really enjoyable trip to the Outback with lots of memories.

From Rat Race to Rottnest

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As I opened the curtains this morning to take an early peek at the weather, I was met with a pure blue sky. It immediately picks you up. As you guessed from my last blog, I have been peddling at half pace for a number of days so needed to get out and get my camera as well as my pedometer going. I put the ‘World Ain’t Slowing Down’ song on and get myself ready. A healthy breakfast and up to the Perth Train Station, curtesy of the Hyatt bus, with Ross the driver, who I have to admit was a mine of information. A little old man with an honest warmth to his welcome, even though he was only taking me a mile across the City. He was an encyclopaedia of everything ‘Perth’ and it is a shame that I am leaving as he obviously loves his City and wants me to see as much of it as possible. Well done Ross!

The tourist office gave me some quick advice for the ticket up to Fremantle which was idiot proof and inside 15 minutes I was on the Rail, a metro type service, up to Fremantle. I am learning short cuts to failure avoidance, by working out what I need to know in advance. The China Wall excepted, it is starting to work. So when I get off at the Railway Station, which way do I turn, is the River behind me or to my right? what colour is the building I need, what’s it called?????? …but it is working.

I plan to get a Ferry for Rottnest, my main destination for the day, but as I turn up the 10.30am boat has just departed, so gives me lots of time to buy a ticket and view what I have to do. All very ‘queue here’ and get on. With the next one at 11.30am I take the opportunity to go into Fremantle for a camera battery (thinking about 3 days outback for Uluru) and also to take a few more snaps of Fremantle to help me remember the place. It is bathed in sunshine today, which makes the white sandstone buildings look even more colonial. Fremantle reminds me of a cross between Leamington Spa and New Orleans. The Regency period buildings are typically British and some have first floor veranda’s with iron artistry fresco’s that line the walkways. I have plenty of time to get my supplies and to be on time for the ferry, with a few more photo’s too.

As we pull away you get a sense of the harbour and docks for what its main purpose has been for almost 200 years. This has been about shipping raw materials out and human traffic in. The Sheds that we alight from are the same that all of the migrant would have seen coming to Fremantle on the ships over the last 100 year and some sheds as huge barns used to store lambs wool ready to be shipped to the mills. Fremantle got its name on the world map when it hosted the America’s Cup yachting race in 1987 the first time it had not been in America. You can see that this is a boating place with the large Marina and the huge boats that dock. A bit of history helps I think.

The fast ferry takes about 35 minutes to get to Rottnest Island. Rottnest named by the Dutch who thought that the Island was infested by large Rats. These Rats are actually Quokka’s, a large marsupial like a small Kangaroo, but with all the features of a large Rat that stand on its hind legs with a big tail. There are lots of them here, but I only saw 2 and by the time my camera was out and I said ‘smile’ they had either turned around or hid.

As you approach the Island, which is free of traffic, you get a feeling of holiday village. The Island is quite beautiful and I now realise that I should have found a way to do a whole day here. Maybe next time. As I walk down the pier, a Pelican was sitting on a lamp post above my head. It was huge. On an Island like this there isn’t much to threaten it, so it just sat there and preened while tourists clicked away. I hired a bike for a couple of hours which was ample in the heat, humidity and the direct sunlight. The bike hire man was handing out safety helmets to everyone, but not to me. I guess he though that if I fell off it would be a case of low speed and I would probably bash one of my shoulders instead. The roads were fairly flat and I just went across to a couple of local bays to get views of the sea. I’m holding off my snorkelling unto the Cook Islands, so not in a rush to jump into the sea. It was very hot and you could feel your water reserves being drained.

After my bike ride, I had to replenish the liquids and then laze around watching the water, boats, birds and people doing similar. I rolled out my jacket on the sand, used my bag for a pillow and tilted my cowboy hat over my face. It was delightful and after my backbone had sunk a little into the hard sand, fairly comfortable. I watche the Pelican cross from side to side, occasionally stopping by boat owners fishing off the backs of their boats and the gulls and sea birds squeaking and squawking at each other. My mind just drifted.

It was soon time to get back onboard the Ferry to head back to Fremantle. A lovely journey shared with the delightful company of Gemma from Sydney who is an Art Director with a medical magazine. Gemma had visited a lot of the places that I have just left in Asia, so we compared notes on everything from the lack of English, to litter and the crazy driving. These are the times that make my journey so rewarding when you can have a good old natter with lovely people, thanks Gemma!

As the ferry was making its way back, I could see the reflection in a glass window over Gemma’s shoulder that the sun was again starting to drop and giving the same shimmer that I had seen a few days ago with Beverley when we stopped off at Cottisloe. My camera wasn’t at hand again so another opportunity missed.

Just to digress a second, I received an email yesterday that was meant for another Dave Dugdale, but was sent to my btinternet.com address. The girl also name Gemma was trying to get something from her father back in the UK. The next coincidence was where Gemma Dugdale lived…she lives in Subiaco which is just outside Perth here in Australia. Strange how these things happen.

Back up to the hotel and a relaxing evening in the Hyatt with some Antipasto and a Gin and Tonic and to write up the blog while its fresh in my mind. Out the corner of my eye there is a Prom assembling for the event rooms to my right, with seventeen year olds dressed to the nines for their special night. Proud Mum’s and Dads hanging around a bit longer than they should to witness the special evening. You felt excited for them.

So that is about it. I’m heading out to Alice Springs tomorrow and expecting to be out of wifi range for 4 days, so will post you towards the end of the week if I am lucky. Catch you soon.

I’m off to see the Wizard…of Oz

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The part of the colonies trip I have been looking forward to is now with me as I get out of Singapore, with the help of Heavenly bodies (although less heavenly than my first flight, not through looks but more that they cared less) and down to Perth. A happy driver in the airport taxi ‘F’d and blinded’ his stories for the next 30 minutes before I got to a tired looking Crowne Plaza Hotel. The Hotel would be more at home in Bournemouth than Perth, but I will reserve judgement for a couple of days.

But before I reserve, let me say that the Hotel is fairly pricey and I wasn’t expecting a lounge and reception to be of B&B size. It must be the right hotel and sizeable as a Virgin Atlantic crew walked in which at least brightens the place with a bit of Blonde and Red. I haven’t savoured my room fully, but it does have a view of the Swan River, which must be what I am paying for in the rate. WiFi is a bit poor too. I remember my trip to New York with the boys in 2011 where we stayed in the Crown Plaza on Times Square and they had similar crappy wifi for a high premium. I can get a limited free service in The Lobby but it gets 2 staff to make it work and its has a download/upload threshold which I think my Blogs will blow.

As a safeguard I tap into the ipad to see where the local Starbucks are located. “Starbucks doesn’t make it in Australia!” says the headline. Oh. Must be other answers to the problem so I will venture out for breakfast tomorrow to see whats what and get an on the ground estimate of my options. WiFi has become my drinking water. It really upsets my day if I struggle to get online, ping the boys and update the blog. I now understand my Shaolin Monk of yesterday with his Blackberry. We really are adicted, we need it fast, we need it now and we need it for free. Of course there is no such thing as a free lunch, but if my Hotel wants to charge a premium lets have at least a good facility. This afternoon, I was asked by Hotels.com to give my verdict on the Prime Hotel in Beijing. A score rating and a comment box. It took me 5 minutes, ping submit, and..”I am sorry you can only have a maximum of 1500 characters in your response”. Aargh!.. Do you want guidance in 2000 characters or do you just want to hear in 64 characters some drivel that ‘it was a lovely hotel and they had a complimentary bottle of water in the room’. Is this moaning? I just want hotels to say what they will do and then do it. The Pan Pacific in Singapore did just that and I didn’t choose its Perth sister as it had a lesser write up than the Crowne. Hmm, if I had dished out another 100 pounds and gone with my inner feeling? Hey, this isn’t about Perth! The next few paragraphs will tell you what I think as I walk around.

I tap into google ‘Top 10 things to do in Perth, for ideas…This has been my standard approach to everywhere that I have landed so at least I get the right perspective and see the main things.

After a nice Irish Breakfast in a nice Irish Bar, surrounded by nice Irish staff, I was set for the day. Perth is a young and modern city compared to the other places and you immediately feel that it is a little corner of Britain. Perth is tucked into the bottom left hand corner of Australia and although it sprawls from town to town down the coast, the next main bit of land you would hit if you went out into the Indian Ocean would be South Africa or South America. I read up on the second breath of prosperity that the mining and raw materials is giving. China is buying in heaps, which is making Perth really expensive. The main ‘City’ part of the City is placed by the side of the Swan River which divides Perth into two, but it’s flat, so you always get a sense for where you are in relationship to the water. One of the first tasks was to get my hair cut and groomed so I made my way up a couple of blocks to Turner’s, which turns out to be owned by a lady who emigrated out here from Oxford. It is about 2 hours after the leaving the hotel that I bump into someone who spoke like an Aussie. Perth is very cosmopolitan.

In the afternoon my Sister-in-law Elaine’s cousin, Beverley, who came out to Perth in the late 60’s kindly picked me up for an official welcome to Perth to help me get my bearings. We drove up to Kings Park, which is a vantage point over the River where you get a good view of the City and the suburbs before heading out to the coast to get a glimpse of the Indian Ocean. Although there was a lot of cloud around the sky was the most prolific blue. It made me realise that I hadn’t seen really ‘blue’ sky in over 4 weeks. I had had clear skies but it was always hazy or smoggy. It was late afternoon and the sun was beginning to head downwards, so the shimmer across the deep blue made for a good photo. Unfortunately I didn’t have the camera to hand so it is in my head and you will just need to believe me. It was like one of the photo I had in a late evening from the Maldives when I was out with Sue for our 25th anniversary. I had a funny feeling of cornwall in my head, when looking at the bars and restaurants facing out to sea. Very beautiful. After a quick coffee, we headed up the coast road and within a couple of miles we could see a Paraglider hovering over the route. The closer we got the more incredible it looked. I have seen these guys hugging the cliffs before, but this one was so close to the road and so low, passing up and down, that cars stopped to watch. I didn’t see the news that night so hope he was alright.

After a further circular route of the area Bev took me back to her house and the wider family was coming across to welcome me. It was lovely to be at the centre of things, although I do struggle with people going out of their way to do things for me, but it was so nice. My thanks go out to Beverley and Husband Corrado (his home grown and prepared olives were excellent), Debbie and Husband Mark and Deb’s older twin brother Stuart (Stewy) and wife Liz. And not forgetting the kids that were around Anna, Emily, Andrew, Emma, Maddy, Ally and Emma’s gorgeous little girl Indiana (Indi). Indi obviously has everyone’s attention and why not.

The House view was spectacular, from the Dining table we could see the Perth City skyline and River, like a mini Hong Kong. Lovely, really lovely and great company, so thank you to all.

The next day I had to kick off with some preparation. I feel I have a couple of ‘operational’ days ahead as I try to plan my route across Australia. I had to get an Australian Mobile sim card and I wanted to get my bearings to the tourist office and a few practical things like toiletries again. Irish Breakfast start, creatures of habit aren’t we, but it was quicker than the usual herding that you get in Hotels. My sim card didn’t work, so I had to locate my other ‘as important as water’ place, the Apple Store. They pinpointed the problem and we would be able to fix tomorrow.

Elaine’s other cousin Deb, then picked me up for the second tour of the area with additional historical and local commentary as we headed out to Fremantle. Fascinating and interesting. Deb picked me up at noon and on the way she had said we would aim first for the Round House, a Customs and Prison Holding point from the early settler days that has a timing Cannon that is ignited at 1pm. Amazingly and without looking at the clock, as we walked up the steps, the Curator was just giving the final words and then a countdown to the cannon. We couldn’t have timed it better. In the next couple of days I will get some photos up when the Wifi is restored and I start clicking my camera.

We had a nice leisurely walk through the Marina, Local Brewery (free taster tray was a nice surprise to both of us!) and we had Fish and Chips in the main seafood restaurant for the Marina. This was very British with a bit of something unusual for us, sunshine.

After a guided tour through the streets of Fremantle, the fresh air had got to me and by 6pm I was almost ready for bed. Deb had been a great tour guide and an ambassador for the Perth Tourist Office. Well done Deb!

Since being in Perth, I have caught up on lots of sleep, but I have decided to give myself a kick up the backside to get my trip more defined and to get my camera clicking again, which I haven’t been doing for a few days.

Sunday was fairly peaceful in Perth, but I am determined to get the trip to Ayre’s Rock sorted. To be PC it is Uluru, as it is indigenous people land. Anyway, with a pointer from the Tourist Office that Uluru was not in their territory (I am in Western Australia and it’s in Northern Territories), they did point me to the Flight Centre about 100 yards away. What I find from time to time on my travels is that I get to logistical overload which ironically brings on frustration, which complicates your thinking. What I had in mind was, Flight from Perth to Alice Springs (‘Alice’ is bang in the middle of Australia), overnight stay there, a 3 day tour of the area and overnight camping, another night stay in Alice and then catch the Ghan Railway down to Adelaide. Thursday is also ANZAC day so is a public holiday, so a few things to work out. I was given some brochures to have a look at and I took the idea away to work out what I could do. This is where is all starts to unravel. The Ghan Railway stops at Alice Springs (Southbound) once a week on a Wednesday only. The 3 day tour starts on a Wednesday, Thursday or Friday and there are limited flights from Alice to Adelaide. Whatever combination I tried, it keep giving me the wrong answer. I had thoughts in my head of being stranded at the Great China Wall and could it happen again, but delayed in days not hours. So after my short FaceTime call on sunday to Jon, which was more like him giving Dad a pep talk, I started Monday with more determination and I booked myself into the Hyatt Hotel in Perth for a couple of nights, much to the surprise of the Crowne Plaza. As I had a final beer of the evening on Sunday, the rain started to hammer down and it felt like I was in a Blackpool B&B on a wet bank holiday weekend. My motivation to ‘plan’ would have to wait until tomorrow.

Waking to a much brighter day and with the prospect of packing up and transferring to another Hotel, I had to be up and at it. I am still later than all the other guests as I saunter into the restaurant for a light breakfast. Although I have been eating well, my appetite isn’t as big as it was which may be good in the long run, so I was into Cereal, Fruit and Yoghurt. I checked out of the Crowne after a lengthy discussion with the Manager over Wifi and what he needed to feedback into his management teams if they are interested. They were shocked that I was moving and that I had a better rate for a better hotel with better wifi. They were pleasant though so I cannot fault them for personality.

I turned down a Taxi offer on the basis that the Hotel was Right out of the Hotel, Right at the next Road (up a Hill) and Right again at the first road leaving me 200 yards to walk to the Hyatt. They could have said to me ‘Turn Left out the Hotel and walk 100 yards and you are at the back entrance to the Hyatt!, but they didn’t’. I felt at Home as soon as I entered the Hotel. Large lobby, Large reception desk, everything that you would want and a large fountain in the middle. “I’m early by 3 hours, do you mind looking after my luggage?”. “That’s OK sir, we have your room ready you can go right up!”. You just get that feeling don’t you.

I headed back to my Travel company with a determination to get things fixed and within an hour it was. Great service the only issue being that my flight now ends up in Brisbane which is on the opposite coast so I will have to find a way to double back to Melbourne. But it is done and I leave on Wednesday midday, which is very sociable for breakfast, packing and check-in. My only issue now is that I know that I have 33Kgs of Luggage, the Tour allows me to take a maximum of 15Kgs, so I have to negotiate with the Hotel in Alice Springs to hold my luggage for 3 days. If it doesn’t then I am going to have to have a balloon debate with myself and lose half of the weight. Let’s hope it doesn’t come to that. I have bought myself a small folding rucksack to fill up with the necessities, which will supplement my North Face rucksack. It will be interesting.

With the logistic done, I head up to Kings Park to get a better view of Perth and my promised photos. The sun came out in force, I tested my new suede cowboy hat (for outback purposes!, just to make sure we are in the same page) and I had time to relax and wander.

I could hear the Kookaburra’s laughing in the trees, but came across one that was in a great pose for me. The colourful Parrots were a bonus. So after 4 days I give you a posting. Apologies.

Wet, wet, wet

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My eyes opened this morning at about 5am to the flashes that were going off outside my window. The rain was so fierce that I couldn’t see the Hotel next door through the mist. It was really tropical and made good watching.

I guess my decision of two nights ago to take the Harbour skyline photo was well made, so I was feeling a little smug with myself. I couldn’t see much happening early this morning so I turned over and went back to sleep. The room is so cool with the air conditioning that you don’t want to leave it to go outside. I met a Japanese businessman in the lift yesterday and I said how humid the weather was. He replied “It is said that Singapore has two sorts of climate, ‘Outdoor’ climate and ‘Indoor’ climate!”. It makes for an interesting conundrum. Why do people want to do business here. Yes, it is lush and green everywhere, but they are living in a greenhouse and it does rain in buckets when it comes, but people avoid going outside if they can. It is also really expensive here too. Hmm?

After I had let my breakfast go down and also booked the first few days of my Australia trip, I headed down to the pool. The humidity of just going from the fourth floor lobby to the poolside was painful, until I had changed and jumped into the water. It really zaps the energy from you and a good excuse to just lie back and relax, which I did. I caught up on the BBC news and a couple of Tweets and also the sad news of Boston. It does make you stop and think about those unfortunate people who have had their lives turned upside down in seconds. My thoughts and prayers go out to them.

I managed to get to about 3.30pm before venturing out. The sun starts to drop around that time and the temperature drops to about 35C, but with the same wet, wet, wetness. I got into the Taxi at the Hotel and for the first time in 3 days, the driver spoke very little English and I had to resort to pointing at a map. Irony really as I was going to China Town and he was Chinese. We got there OK, but I was trying to memorise what would be the last 2 roads so I could get my bearings. We were close, but he didn’t know exactly where we were on my map. Across the road there were side streets with lanterns, so I guess that was a clue. China Town gets going around 3pm and then goes to late at night. It is best for food when it is late, but you also then have to put up with everyone trying to sell you something. Camera’s, suits, food, drink, services… I didn’t want that I just wanted to get a small bite to eat and have time to browse. The Hotel had circled a particular main road to try and the day before 2 separate staff specifiied streets to try.

I stopped off at two temples. A Buddhist temple that drew me in through it bright gold that glittered from a prayer hall and the burning incense from the sticks in the courtyard. A Hindu Temple caught my eye simple because of its building and individual statues. Have a look at the picture. I think it highlights the life of Krishna, surrounded by women.

Walking around China Town, the good thing was that it is not a huge area, so going off piste doesn’t take long to correct. It did take me a while to work out that most of the restaurants and stalls were not what I was looking for. I circled right back to where the taxi dropped me and then looked at the map again and 50 yards down there was a Food Court. There are a few big ones in Singapore. This place had 2 alleyways with competing food on both sides, maybe 50 or 60 stalls. I wander down both and then picked up on one shop with some Duck being displayed. Duck and Rice it was, with a Bowl of Dumplings in a vegetable broth. Not bad for 8 Singapore Dollars, but I will give you my final verdict after 24 hours have passed. My confidence was that a Monk in an Orange Robe was eating at the table next to me. I watched him as he finished the meal, which I think was gifted to him. He went to one member of staff and offered her a piece of string, which she first of all looked puzzled by, but then he must have added a story, as she then placed it between her hands and made a blessing gesture. I have heard of this before that they expect to be fed by donations. The odd thing was that he had a Blackberry phone. Times change I guess??

I finish up and head up to Clark Quay which was a real hard slog in the humidity (about half a mile walk). Over a couple of beers I just stared at the river, it was too hard to think too much.

As I looked through the buildings the old quarter of the Quay and China Town are so close and inter-mingled with the modern buildings that are corporate Singapore. The office workers are coming out and heading for a swift drink before heading home, or as I have found in my Hotel, they are here for a week on company business and are making the most of it!

Well a last couple of Gin and Tonics to help me sleep as I have a morning flight to Australia. I am glad that I stopped off here, it has been different again, by weather, by people, by quality, by variety. I couldn’t have done a week, but a few days has given me a little insight to yet another country.

I am now looking forward to my flight with Singapore Airlines and of course the heavenly bodies…

Singapore Heaven

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Early start up to Singapore from Beijing and as the Taxi tears it way up to the airport, Beijing is silent and different. It really does feel like a sunday morning, with the low sun just appearing but perfect blue skies.

Through the Airport to the International departures and as I am passing through security the guy behind me is wearing an old Aston Villa T-shirt. I picked this up from just seeing the ‘on V’ through his jacket, so had to ask him. Made me smile that we are a long way from home and my local team is being represented.

On to the flight and my first experience of Singapore Airlines. Oh…Heavenly Bodies! This is going to be a nice flight. The Stewardesses were so beautiful and their uniforms, colourful sarongs, just raised them up my Airline league table. I had to give them a compliment. They all have gorgeous smiles and have lovely colour skin. I don’t think 6 hours was long enough, but I am flying to Australia with them in 4 days time.

I catch up on my blog and get some Country and a few uplifting songs in my earphones.

Yet again I have a nice positioned seat but the flight isn’t too full. Looking out the window and I think we are passing over Vietnam, I get a another heavenly view of the Clouds below, but set against a background of Green. Well what can I say, this is heaven. I can’t get the word out my head, it’s a noun and an adjective. Everywhere I look blissfully brings me back to the same word. Outside and Inside the plane. Heavenly…

Gin and Tonic in my hand, I am in my comfort zone.

Singapore airport was inviting and efficient. You immediately get a feeling that you are back in the Empire and although there are lots of Chinese people around they are speaking English.

The short ride from the Airport, was like passing through someones back garden and well manicured. In a short while the city comes into sight and you get a sense of this being a world centre of commerce with tall skyscrapers and hotels, some more exceptional than others.

My Hotel lobby is wide and inviting. It was if I had arrived at a relatives home and everyone knew I was coming. The reception assistant checked me in around a low oval table wished me a belated birthday for yesterday and was really interested in what I had to say about where I had come from and the stay that I had chosen at their hotel. He called through to the bar across the wide and modern lobby to arrange for a beer for me and inside 10 minutes I was relaxing and taking in the hotels decor. You will get a feel for the Hotel from the pictures, but I am up on the 27th Floor. I eventually get up to my room which is via an external glass elevator which does feel a bit weird first time, as well as the walk to the room, which is an open walkway in the atrium which is a pyramid type shape. The room has wall to wall windows and similarly a glass walled bathroom, so I will need to take note of closing the blinds.

In the lift I get a view of the outdoor large circular pool on the 4th Floor which looked inviting. This was going to be a nice stay I could tell.

I got my bearings on the first night and as it had been a long day all I wanted was a shower and bed, but it was also Sunday and I had the ‘3 rings’ video call with the boys back home at a sociable time for all of us.

The next day I got up a bit later than expected as I had put down the electronic sunblinds to the room and it was in pitch black darkness, but after a coffee and a pastry I was off to find one of the Hotels that I spied on the route in. The Marina Bay Sands hotel. A hotel that would be at home in Dubai with its Cricket Stumps-shaped building with a massive open pool and complex on its 57th top floor. One thing you notice straightaway is the Heat and the Humidity of Singapore. It hits your lungs immediately as you walk out of the hotel. I don’t think I will be walking a lot in the next 3 days, but the cleanliness of Singapore and its organisation helps you forget it a little.

The top floor viewing deck gives a great view of Singapore, the river, Quays and tall buildings. There is something about these buildings that make them attractive. It’s not in the beauty league as you would the Taj Mahal, but there is a sense of coolness in the buildings contrasting with each other. Like a mini Hong Kong. I clicked away like the typical tourist, but although I could have stayed as long as I liked, the humidity clings to you, so I head back down. The Hotel sits on a large affluent shopping centre with all the big world brands on show, but I need to seek out a small shop for some basic toiletries.

I think about taking a long walk around the Harbour, but make a quick decision that the pool could give me what I need, and it did. Singapore will not be a sight seeing extravaganza, it will be a do what I want to do at a leisurely pace and take in a couple of things along the way, if I want to.

The pool quenched every part of the body and I sat out for about 2 hours under an umbrella and towel, but rehydating every 15 minutes, listening to some music in between.

In the evening I had a cab out to Clark Quay for a small bite to eat. The sticky weather was relentless in the evening and was also holding back my appetite. However, I did have a mission. One of the local delicacies is Chilli Crab, so I scout the area with a couple of beers along the way to find somewhere that could supply the goods. The area is packed with different restaurants of all the cuisines you can think of, from USA steaks and Burgers to Italian Pizzas to a range of Asian foods. I browsed through a number of menus at a number of doorways. I settled on an Indonesia restaurant, but served the Chilli Crab.

I only wanted a small bite so as a guide I was looking at the picture menu and the price. ‘Chilli Crab’ 7 SGD. Hmm low price so could be a sample portion. I called over the waiter who was very helpful. I told him I was after something small and pointed to the Crab, but as I did I also noted that it was ‘per 100g’. He guided me that the smallest he thought he could do would be 700g if that was OK?. I wasn’t sure if that was small or not but agreed and thought that it was in my budget range as well. “OK, I will get it” he said. I sat back and took in the ambiance of the restaurant which was filled with a range of nationalities.

About 15 minutes later the waiter came back, I thought to qualify my order, but then said 900g was the smallest he could get and pushed a plastic bag to me. “Be careful” he said, but encouraged me to open the bag to look at the live green-blue crab that he had pulled out of a tank somewhere which was looking up at me. I don’t know why I did it, but with one hand holding the bottom, I reached inside to touch the crab and yes it did move and so did I. Was I going to count his legs, stroke it or what?, but with that done and seeing that it was very alive, albeit for 10 minutes I nodded and said thank you.

20 minutes later the Crab was prepared and with a constant look this time was on my plate in a pool of sauce staring up at me again. I wasn’t shy with my next question as I wanted to know how I needed to eat it and what I should not eat. I have had lots of dressed crab in the UK, but never a hot dish. I was guided to the Claw Crackers to get into the Claws first and then move to the body. Did I need an apron?, No, I would be OK.

The Crab was a beautiful red-orange colour and the sauce which had been prepared with some of the loose meat from the main body, was rich of tomatoes, chillies and other spices. I had the usual crab delving fork and a spoon for the sauce. Well what can I say, this was amazing. The Crab meat, especially the claws, was juicy and had that nice saltiness to it and the sauce was, well yes, heavenly! A thick bisque consistency and completely delicious. Sorry for repeating myself but this was all the things that I loved. Seafood, Tomatoes and Chillies.

When it came to cracking the claws I looked down at my right thumb which bears the scar of a crabs claw that I was eating in the street when I was courting Sue, back when I was 19. The crab won on that occasion. This time I was gingerly squeezing the pre-cracked shell to find the best and tidiest point to get to the meat. I looked down after 10 minutes and I am covered in sauce. Another laundry request for tomorrow I thought. But well worth it.

I waddled back to the Taxi and was soon back in the Hotel.

As we made the way back I saw the Singapore skyline with its lights on and knew that I should take the opportunity to get a photo just in case we had rain and I ended up with another Hong Kong. I quickly got changed so that I could respectably walk through the lobby and make my walk over to the Marina. Great picture, I hope I caught it how it felt to me. Within 30 minutes I was back in the Hotel and sipping a Gin and Tonic in the bar, chatting through ‘travelling’ with the staff. Nice evening and a dish that I will add to my long list of ‘must do again’.

Happy Birthday…I need some Pandering

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With the rearrangement of my flight I was having my last day in Beijing and it was my birthday. It is funny when you are surrounded by so many people and they don’t know or care that it is your day today.

After yesterday’s ”Great Wall day’, everything was going to be at a stroll pace today as I was in a wind down mood. There were more Temples and a few ‘National’ This, That and the Other to see, but I was in need of some pandering, so where best than Beijing Zoo. Well that’s were they keep Panda’s don’t they? When you were a kid that was what was special about China, wasn’t it?, and I have never seen a live one. I’m not a fan of Zoo’s, but I thought a relaxing walk in some parkland would be nice. The rest of Beijing thought it was a good idea too.

From my conversation with my Mexican friend yesterday, (and guys if you are reading this can you reply with your first names as I forgot them and I would like to personalise the blog for everyone) the subway system was supposed to be very easy to use. After a relay breakfast where I almost lost my main course as I ventured in search of a spoon, I headed to the Hotel Cafe for a nice Latte and a comfortable seat. I pulled out the two tourist maps of Beijing that I had. One of the problems is that Beijing is so vast that the typeface is always in fine print on any map or subway map. I tapped into the Internet which allowed me get other tourists experiences and what to expect of the subway. It is nice to see the pictures before you arrive. Looks straightforward. The other little issue for foreign travellers is that although the Subway has an English version of the station name, the way we may see it is not the way the Chinese say it, so get lost at your peril.

To seek a little help I asked the staff in the Cafe some simple mimed questions. I am getting like Marcel Marceau with my mime act. I haven’t had to open a clear window yet, but everything else has been tried. Now I didn’t Mime ‘Zoo’ as I had read that the zoo had 20,000 animals, so I pointed to the map. So…

1. Where is the local subway station? 1st answer, “yes”, 2nd answer “take Bus” and 3rd one a point and a finger mime for walking “10 minutes”

2. Route to the Beijing Zoo by Subway ? (Pointing at map)… Hmmm, this was a bit harder, they took the maps and had a conference been four of them and then Phoned a Friend. Got it! They circled the map at 4 stations, my Local Station, 2 Transfer stations and then the Final one which was nicely titled ‘Beijing Zoo’.

I read it back to them and tried to pronounce the 3 other Stations. Oooh?, the local one I though was easiest, Dongsi (Dong Si, right?, wrong!) Dong Souuuu, I tried but it just made them laugh, the more I chewed on the word the more they laughed. They were starting to mellow with me. Maybe I should have opened my visit with a stand up comedy act. I think they were also laughing that a man travelling alone in a city like Beijing wanted to spend the afternoon at the zoo. The song of “We’re all going to the Zoo tomorrow” came into my head. I changed the final line to ….’We’re going to stay until I get bored’ (was it Peter, Paul and Mary?). Well I had to do it, so with just a camera in hand, but also with iPhone and sufficient funds to get a plane ticket back to London if I got lost, I headed off. The station was the 10 minute walk, but I was noting landmarks along the route. ‘Dongsi!’ tick, I am there, nice underground and you sense organisation and quality. Luckily the automated machines were all faulty so I did not have to stand and watch people, I headed to the ticket office. One ticket for 2 Yuan (20 UK pence) gets you to anywhere in Beijing. London take note, 20 pence!, not 4 Pounds with limitations. The signs were really good and to my surprise the Platform announcments were in English as well. The Olympics must have given Beijing a good legacy for tourists. I think some stations in London had a few air conditioning units from London 2012. Queuing was Chinese style. You queue inside lines and when the doors open you push in, even if the passengers trying to exit can’t get off because Incomers are in the way. A little bit of logic training wouldn’t go amiss. Excellent information board and announcments on the train. Some of my blogs may sound like I have had 30 years in solitary confinement, but what interests me is how some of these ‘super’ economies are doing some of the basics. Trains, Sign posts and helping people, culture and behaviours. Kyoto is still top of my list of ‘having it sorted’. I’m playing around with some fun statistics that I will share with you in June, when I know that deporting me won’t matter.

So the trains, and to the Zoo, it was fine. I had my trusted compass but my maps are less trusted as they are very brittle and each time I pick it out my back pocket it is getting smaller.

I head straight for the Panda’s and in the first pen two were posing just as I had expected, chewing on some bamboo. Click, click, I’m done…Not really I did have a good walk around and even went into their large Aquarium. I think I have seen some of these fish on the menu. Cute Rainforest type layout taking you around the fish. Interesting all the signs..Don’t Climb, Don’t Feed, Don’t put hands in the Water, No Flash photography, do not enter xyz. Yeh right, so you want subtle things like this?

Later I was back in the Hotel as I fancied a few pints and a lot of Face Time with family and friends back home, which was lovely and a chance to share some of forthcoming blogs on special previews. A really enjoyable afternoon and the technology worked well. This world is a lot smaller than we think.

In the evening I returned to the al a carte restaurant and browsed the heavy menus again. Tonight a starter of a Pork Platter followed by Duck in Flower Tea with some Sticky Rice.

A plate of complimentary exotic fruits was placed in front to kick me off.

The Pork arrived and it was 3 slabs of different ways of cooking Belly I think.

One was Yellow and seemed to have been poached, one was very crispy and its skin, fat and meat was perfectly layered and the third was more soft and crunchy skin with similar layers. Each was perfectly cut into small bite sites pieces and easy for Chopsticks. A sweet almost marmalade sauce with a teryaki type brown sauce and sugar were the dips. Absolutely delicious. I don’t know how they get the skin so thin and crispy.

The Duck then arrived which was bite sized too in a red brown glaze with slices of mushrooms and I think braised water chestnuts. Very filling and went well with the pork. The rice had not arrived but I wasn’t that bothered as I was filling up very quickly. As a breath stop, I waved to the waitress to come back over and with the help of my passport explained that it was my birthday. I got a smile and a wish of Happy Birthday. I then asked her for a piece of paper and a pen, which she did and I wrote ’13 April’ and nodded to her so she understood. I then wrote 13 04 by the side of the date, nodded, so did she. I then arranged the numbers as an addition 1 + 3 + 0 + 4 and gave the answer of 8. The Chinese hold the number 8 with great reverence and superstition. She got it straight away, smiled and went off.

I returned to my meal and ate as much as I could. Leaving good food is not polite. I had a last gasp and put the Chopsticks down. As I did the restaurant Manager came over and wished me a Happy Birthday, news had travelled to the Kitchen, but then presented me with a Huge bowl of Udon Noodles, Cabbage and an Egg floating on the top and about a Litre of Broth. I thanked them and loosen my belt. I did manage most of the Noodles and Cabbage and Egg and had a celebration slurp on the broth. I really was done. I don’t want to be in someone else airline story…I was sitting next to this enormous Englishman!…The Hotel staff were warming to me. Less Goldfish today, more Elephants (in the politest memory sense). I signed my bill and it wasn’t questioned.

I headed down to do my Check Out as I had an early flight in the morning. It was the same guy who had turned down my Travellers Cheques. I knew it and he knew it too. We have an interesting dilemma, I have to put my PIN into the device and SIGN the paper. So if he doesn’t like my signature, then what? If he does like my signature, then does he apologise for yesterdays fiasco. I had had a good day and the Staff had tried harder today, so I broke the ice. I just advised him of my conversation with Amex and what he should have done, but also how the west does things a bit differently. He did apologise and did understand the irony of my check out signature. I also shared the Birthday Math with him and he offered to get the Kitchen to prepare a cake for me. I thank him, but declined.

Well that’s all but the packing which should be easy.

Overall, my impression is that Beijing has a lot of interesting things to see and do which you have to sample. Some of their behaviours and manners are very different to the West and I think I am a bit jaundiced (you could say they are) by the fact that I am a lone traveller which means that simple things are quite hard and one thing affects your view of the next. As a couple or in a group, while one person has their job as map reader, another person can be looking for clues and so on. But you must try these things and as we know some times we need a bit of motivation to make the first step. Onwards and downwards, Singapore!

The Great Wall of China

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I am off today on a tour of the Ming Tombs and The Great Wall of China. I have arranged it through the Hotel’s Tour Desk, so nice and simple and less stressful than arranging my own transport.

Up and ready to fit a breakfast in, I tactically gather all of my breakfast together, before eating anything. Nothing disappeared while I was on the relay for the Pancakes. I could sense that I was on a mission as I was eating too quickly and kept looking at my watch. At 8am I was waiting at the Front Desk at the allotted time. The Tour Operator was to arrive in 10 minutes which he duly did and led me out to a Small Coach, also with two other ladies who were from the Philippines, one of them who now lives in California. We got on the bus and joined 3 other people, a delightful couple from Venezuela (Liliana and Guillermo) and a man from Mexico who spoke exceptional Spanish and English and was our interpreter and the fact man for our group. My Mexican man said that his mother was English and came from Leek in Staffordshire. The sun was shining and we were off. The Guide introduced himself as ‘Wong’ and did his best to position Beijing and what we were going to be doing.

The small coach gave us time to do some introductions and we shared the usual stories of ‘where travelled?, Beijing experiences and Hotels’.

The first drop was the Ming Tombs. These are the Mausoleums of past Emperors. We arrived and we had some early sharing of cameras to get some shots and the group was beginning to gel. Wong arranged the tickets and led us with intermittent commentary through the Gates. The entrance was just like all the buildings of the Forbidden City, even the numbers of dragons and designs. Not surprising that one was where they lived and one was where they were laid to rest. In those days they were not inspired by the latest world wide building designs from Dubai, New York or Seoul, even though the Tomb of Jun who we were visiting was a bit of an explorer.

Inside the Courtyard stood a standalone entrance gate, a castle-like building for the tomb entrance and a hillside just beyond. It was bad luck to walk through the ‘gate’ so we walked around it and the history was told of the ‘rights’ if walking on the central path. The Mausoleum would usually contain the dying Emperor, his wife and his favourite Concubine. Not so good for the Concubine who was sacrificed on his death.

We walked up and around the monument to the Emperor, the castle, and had a few views of the surrounding mountains, but no tombs. These aren’t open to the public as they are buried underground under the hillside. Wong pointed out that as the air quality was good today we could see 2 other Tombs, one to our left up in the Mountains and one way in the distance down a valley. I couldn’t help thinking that as a main Beijing tourist sight, that the absence of ‘a Tomb’ sort of weakened its attraction. A bit like going to an art gallery without paintings ??

The Filipino Lady wanted a Hat from a small shop in the Courtyard, as the Great Wall is a bit chillier but very sunny at the same time. This is the best low key haggling I have seen. A Fur Hat. “How Much?” asked her American friend, “800 Yuan!”, “I don’t have that much”. “600 Yuan!”, “I only have 120 Yuan” and was looking at other Hats too, but by this stage the Hat is sitting on her friends Head. “400 Yuan!”. “But I only have this much”, showing the notes and starts to walk away. Deal struck at 120 Yuan.

We wait to leave at the free standing Gate, where we have to chant in Chinese “I’ll be back” as you step over the ledge of the doorway. The ledge also prevents ghosts from passing through, so Wong says.

We are led back to the coach and given the introduction to our stop off shopping point, a Jade Factory, which is also the lunch venue. How convenient.

Remember, my Indian position, “I hate shopping!” Well that hadn’t changed. Nice to see all the Jade stuff, but…bring my lunch.

The Restaurant had two massive dining halls, all with circular tables and a party susi in the middle of each which was served with a number of dishes. It gave us all some more time to chat, which was good. A beer as well.

Then off to the Great Wall, this really is the main event, a Seven Wonders of the World thing. Now there are a few lists for Seven Wonders, The Original and mythical ones, the new ones, the new new ones etc etc. Whatever lists that are out there, the Great Wall of China has to be among them. Built over a 1400 years period and stretching 8,800 Kilometres it is really impressive. With an estimated 10 Million people who lost their lives building it.

We were directed to a Cable Car which would take us to a section of the wall from which we could walk for a couple of hours and the guide arranged for 6 tickets to get us up. After the usual ‘awe’ photos at the top, I thought we had agreed to meet at the same place at 2pm, so we went off in the same direction, amongst the hoards of Chinese people. The Walls are immense with steep inclines that hug the contours of the hills and mountains and go way out into the distance in a range of zig zag lines with staging turrets every couple of hundred metres or so. Lots of photos as a group with lots of sharing of photo opportunities etc. About an hour in, I lost sight of my party, but we had a rendezvous point and I aimed for that.

The Walls are amazing and to think this is all prepared by hand. It certainly was a defence line and also quite intimidating. It pushed back the Mongolians for centuries with a suggested Military Force of 1 Million soldiers manning the walls.

The walkways were polished stone from the centuries of users and probably massive amounts of tourists in the last 50 years. It was painful on the calf muscles on the way up and painful on your knees on the way down. But still old people and small children were making the pilgrimage.

Lots of photo’s. The air quality isn’t as clear and there is a general haze, but still spectacular.

I get back to the meeting point and find myself first, so take in more of the views. 2.10pm, 2.20pm, 2.30pm and no one has joined me…Let me check the point about 25 metres back?..no one. 2.40pm, 2.50pm, I was starting to contemplate going down and pinning a note on a metal pole, but at 3pm I made the decision to go just as about 100 Chinese tourist made the same decision too. We shuffled up an L shaped tunnel. The Cars held 6 people, unless you are Chinese and you just want to go only with your immediate family, so less efficiency. I have seen the same practice in European Ski resorts, but at least there the cable operators cuss at not making the most of the space. Interesting that in Delhi I saw 6 big men squeeze into the back of a Tuk Tuk built for 2.

At the bottom of the Cable Car I turn Left as I was told, but could not see the Guide our Mini Coach? I walk into the car park and I knocked on the windows of 2 similar looking cars. They just shook their heads. I walked back but there was nobody who could speak English. Luckily I had the Tour leaflet in my pocket and a telephone number scribbled on it for the tour operator. I hadn’t got my phone with me, lesson learned, so went to the Cable Ticket office and mimed to the girl if she could dial the number, and she did. She passed the phone and as I said “Hi, I am at the Great Wall” they knew exactly who I was. “Hold on I will call you back”, I tried to give her the feedback that it wasn’t my phone, but she hung up. I handed the phone back to the assistant through the glass window and tried to explain that they would return the call. In 2 minutes Wong was on the phone asking where I was and why I was late. I had a vision in my head of the true story of 2 scuba divers left out at sea.

“We waited, now we are gone, you have to get a bus”. At this point a Taxi driver who had been watching me came over and sensed what was going on and an opportunity. Wong continued, “you get the 919 bus as far as it goes then get a Subway train”. “How do I do that?”, He would call me back. We are about 80Km outside of Beijing. The Taxi driver says he will do it for 600 Yuan, I reach into my pocket and I have 500 available. He reluctantly says yes. Wong calls back and I tell him that a driver will take me back, I handed the phone to the Taxi driver. They argue over the price, but I think that the Taxi driver was complaining about Wong leaving a tourist behind. The phone is handed back to me, “he will take you to a Toll Gate and charge you 300 Yuan and I will meet you there”. Back on track I thought. We run across to his Taxi and he speeds off beeping all the way to get people out the way. He takes a series of back roads at high speed and I do not say a word to him as you need to focus when overtaking 2 large Coaches on a blind bend. It was break neck speed, but 20 minutes later he pulls up to the side of a Toll Road. He doesn’t want to go on it as he will be going off towards Beijing and that is not the plan. I gave him the leaflet with the office number and he transacts with them to get Wong’s mobile number. An exchange of ‘where are you?’ and a very heated discussion takes place. He quickly gets out the car and opens the back door for me and says, “he will be coming up there!” and points at a fence at the Toll Booth. Then in the next second I see Wong, running up the Toll Road. After his one way debrief that I was late he said “The car is 300 Metres down the toll road” and we start to walk. As we pass the toll cashier, she shouts to him that we can’t go down the toll road without a car. I know what’s going to happen.

We wait for the next toll user and beg a lift. The first turned Wong down. A second hesitantly agrees and we squeeze in for the 20 second ride. Onto the bus and apologies from me all around. They had waited for an hour and had been further delayed by the re-rendezvous. I explained the waiting at the top and they were waiting at the bottom. My Mexican friend was translating my conversation with Liliana and Guillermo. When I said that I was sorry to delay their shopping trip to the Silk Factory, they said that they didn’t go. I apologies again. “No, they said, we didn’t want to go shopping anyway” and Guillermo gave me a ‘High Five’ in celebration. They joked that I owed them dinner.

What an afternoon.

We made our way back and I was dropped off at the Hotel. I said I would try to make it to the Novotel Hotel that evening to do dinner at their superior buffet. After our farewells, I thought I need my iPad, NOW. And, I need a pint.

Earlier in the day I had sent an emailnto my Travel Agent back in the UK to request an earlier flight on Monday as I was due to get to the Hotel in Singapore at 2.00am which was a bit silly. I ordered the Pint of Beer and tried to locate her reply. “Postmaster Fail”. I am fairly technical, but this means that one or both of the emails that I had sent to my agent ‘Mary’ or the central office number had not worked. I was running out of time. I contacted Tom back in the UK by Instant Message to see if he could help, but at that point Mary’s email arrived and confirmed that there were earlier flights, but only one sensible one. Beijing was starting to become a challenge for me rather than a trip, so I asked Mary to look at cutting a day off Beijing and I will take the extra day in Singapore. Success! I downed my beer and asked for the Bill. Now remember what I had said of the Goldfish. The same girl asks for me to complete the same simple printed charge sheet, with Name, Room and Signature. So I give my First name Initial and Family Name. She goes off and returns and with the use of an iPhone type device types in a request in Chinese which translates to English and shows me the translation. I open my iPad application to get ready with a reply.

Waitress “Enter your registration name!”

Dave “This is my name!”

Waitress “Enter your registration name!”

Dave (writing ‘David’ after the name) and pointing “This is my name!”

She goes back to the cashier who has also been serving me for 4 days.

Automation out again. And not forgetting we are talking about One Pint of Local Beer. Waitress “Enter your registration name!”

This goes on for another 2 rounds and I am starting to use a few polite expressions about the Hotels ability to do business which is wasted as I didn’t type them into my translator. She wanders back to the Cashier then turns to me and say, “OK now”. OK now?, I hadn’t changed anything!

I had planned to go to the Novotel tonight with the hope of catching up with the Spanish speaking contingent so thought I should translate my apologetic excuses to read for them. As it was we didn’t catch up (I will tell you in a moment), but they will be able to see what I would have said and for the sake of my Anglo saxon friends and family the translation…

Mis sinceras disculpas por el retraso de su viaje a la fábrica de seda. (My sincere apologies for delaying your trip to the Silk Factory)

Yo echarle la culpa a la ignorancia de Inglaterra de la línea de fecha internacional (I blame it on England’s ignorance of the International Date Line)

Un perro chino se comió el pedazo de papel con mi tiempo de encuentro (A Chinese dog ate the piece of paper with my rendezvous time)

Tengo insolación (I have sun stroke)

Me encanta América del Sur (I love South America)

Pues más de lo (Well most of it)

Well to buy a few drinks tonight I need a bit of extra Yuan. I’ll change some Travellers Cheques at the Hotels Front Door Cashier. £200 is plenty so I have 4 x £50 cheques. I ask the question and I am led to the end of the desk which is the Hotel’s Cashiers area. I am told where to sign, really easy, as I have used £900 already in India, Hong Kong and Japan. I sign and I have my UK passport and also noting that I am a guest of 4 days, he checks it and smiles to himself and then says, No! He can’t speak much English so goes down to a more senior person for a double check. He utters something and the Clerk comes back. “No, can you try another one?”, Yes, no problem, I signed a second and he is joined by his colleague. This one isn’t acceptable either. I show them my passport which also has the Chinese Visa built in. My signature is not close enough. I said that the Hotel was making it very difficult for guests to do business with them. I signed a 3rd with a second signature on the back and even with my passport shown clearly they said they couldn’t accept it. The main man apologised, but said American Express have rules and we have management guidelines. I am getting to a stage where I think that I should have bought a goat and a few chickens with me to barter. “So do you have an ATM machine?”, he pointed to a corner behind me.

I went back to my room safe for my cards, but also called American Express for advice. They were really helpful. They told me that they expect signatures to vary and a resemblance is what they need and, where necessary, the Cashier can call Amex for an authorisation code, which in my case the Hotel didn’t do. I went back to the ATM machine and both my Visa Card and Master Card came back with an error of ‘No Overseas Cards Accepted’. My thought of leaving for Singapore was holding back a real rant.

The desk pointed me to another machine, which worked, but I thought, take less out as I will probably have difficulty exchanging any surplus back. I did go back to the Cashier to complain about the ATM as the two Filipino ladies were trying to change a 100 US dollar bill. Again the same cashier was doubting the validity of that as well.

With that said I headed out for the Novotel. After endless approaches by Call Girls who are everywhere irrespective of the Police being around and it being a highly populated street I gave up hope of finding the Novotel. My dining experience for the night was KFC. I headed back for the Hotel to put a cap on today and also to get my Singapore Hotel arranged.

Singapore all in hand, I have one last pint and a coffee and amazingly charged to my room at the first attempt. The Fish Bowl is empty now and it is approaching midnight so I decided to call it a day. From absolute Greatness and Awe, to awful all in one day. Night!

Tian’an men Square

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There is an interesting and stark difference between my stay in Kyoto and the stay in Beijing. The Beijing Prime Hotel is a large building with nice furnishings, a big open style reception with marble flooring and a sweeping staircase that goes up to the first floor mezzanine. It is by far the most glamorous of the Hotels that I have stayed in on my trip to Asia, so far. The bedroom is large and well kept with the study desk and armchair that I would find in some of the better hotels in the USA. My feeling after two days is that it isn’t really catering for the non-Chinese tourist even though they have every facility and a good concierge that I should want. The issue I have today is that although they, like the Japanese, revere (yes, I have swallowed a dictionary for breakfast) Koi, the staff are very ‘goldfish’ like in their customer service. No one has been rude and no one has been discourteous but there is something missing in the way they look after you. Let me explain. From what I have noticed I am one of a few English speaking people in the Hotel. Each day I have either had a Coffee or a Beer in the open cafe. Yesterday I ventured in 3 times. I have been served by the same staff. When I arrive to the soft lounge seats, they don’t wait for me to sit down, they look me in the eye and have their order pads ready and stand very close until I make a decision. Goldfish? You know what they say that Goldfish lose their memory every 4 seconds. I seem to be a brand new stranger each time I arrive into their bowl. When I ask for the Bill and put it to my room, each time it is double checked and I am asked to wait for its approval before I leave. Smiles as they do it, but a mistrust that makes you feel uneasy. In the restaurant last night, I was asked to confirm my first name on the bill before I left. It is though they have had a number of running customers. And for service, they don’t watch you they watch the chinaware. Yesterday’s buffet breakfast, I gathered some cereal from the large food area which has a great selection of hot and cold foods and a glass of orange juice. A waiter came with a tray of Coffee, Cup and Saucer and poured a cup. There were about 30 tables of 4 settings in the non smoking area and I was one of about 10 people in for breakfast. I finished the cereal and went off for the main event. When I arrived back, my table had been cleaned of everything! I had signed for my breakfast in a nano second and was expecting someone to come again for another signature. The same waiter came up to me again, “Coffee?” as if I had just arrived. Now do I go back for an Orange Juice ?…hmm.

Before I venture out, I look out of my big window and take a bird’s eye view of the main crossroad. I was trying figure out the purpose of the Pedestrain Red and Green lights. At some there is even a count down on Green of about 50 seconds. Looking down, the vast majority of pedestrians are skipping the crossing on ‘red’ pausing every now and then to cross 6 lanes of traffic. After the day out today I can see why they do this. When the lights turn to ‘green’ for pedestrians, the cars just keep coming and do not stop if you walking on the black and white foot markings.

I decide that I am not up for my walk out just yet and go for a swim instead.

The pool on the fourth floor was freezing, although the sign said it would be 26C and an outside of 28C. I wrinkled quickly and got under a hot shower as soon as I could.

Eventually I head out and aim for a small hill and park just to the north of the Forbideen City, Jingshan Park. I could just about see it to the far left from my bedroom. Beijing is a very flat city. You could liken it to Bournemouth. Jingshan was created about 600 years ago when the Forbidden City’s moats and canals were being dug out. They piled it up and created a number of places of worship. Even though it is only about 100 metres high, it is a great vantage point to get 360 degree views of Beijing, especially a roof tops view of the Forbidden City. It was easy going and a pleasing start to the day. The sun was up and the sky was blue.

As the roads are basically a grid system, I kept my bearings based on the Forbidden Cities northern gate and continued to the next local Palace. This was the Emperors Winter Palace which was also linked to a big Park and Boating lake called Beihai. The Palace rooms are filled with Buddhist statues linked to the Tibetan Order, which when you consider their age are in amazing condition. The lakes and parkland are a nice stroll too.

I stop off in the Park for a small bite to eat. Not too much to write home about as the picture in the menu shows a self standing pile of Chicken, but I had something which tasted like Duck and was obviously having a swimming lesson in some soup.

Half replenished I got my bearings. As all my electronic equipment has been locked away in my Hotel Room, I was using my trusted walkers compass. I bought it about 15 years for a trip to the Lake District and had never used it. It proved to be a god send. Although talking to a Chinese-Canadian couple later on and he pressed a button on his watch and it showed him ‘North’. I actually knew where I was and the route I would take to my next stop off, Tian’an men Square.

Working a route at the rear of the Forbidden City, there was a procession of hundreds of people walking for the same purpose. Still littered by people wanting to sell you things, and with the added pain of call girls who try to talk to you to ‘learn English!’ One actually swore at me when I wouldn’t speak to her, and I could tell by the diction that she did actually need a lesson or two.

As you pass through the final gate of the ‘City, you hit your first glimpse of Tian’an men Square. It really is massive. You can easily believe that Mao did a military dress for 1 Million Soldiers in the square. Before moving through an underpass to get to the main square across a busy multi lane road, you look back over your shoulder at large portrait of Mao Zedong. He was the creator of the New China and he has left an amazing starting point for China. It is different out here but to control and set direction for 1.3 Billion people you do need to have someone with clear principles and charisma. To put into context this many people, hand in hand, they would be able to wrap around the world 45 times.

It is a general meeting place for thousands of people, but with such a huge space it always looks empty. The flags were flying high with the wind and it was a very patriotic occasion. At the North end of the Square, a large flag pole was chained off and had sentries guarding it. At Sundown, they have a ceremony of taking down the flag. The Crowds gathered including the call-girls who had less walking to do to spot the Europeans. It was a fairly long wait. I approached one on the soldiers to see what time it was expected. He understood, but just couldn’t find the words. I think it finally arrived at about 6.15pm. Just 45 minutes prior to this a woman broke from the crowds and crouched in a bow toward the flag pole, all the guards ran to protect the square and she was led off to a Police Truck. They got back to their starting positions in a very dignified manner, with military precision.

When the time came and the sun was giving the buildings to the West a clear silhouette, the traffic of the Main Road was stopped and a squad of about 30 soldiers marched in military dress outfits across from the building with Mao’s portrait, straight to the flag courtyard and the Flag started lowering. It wasn’t as lavish and arousing as the India-Pakistan border opening and closing but it was equally passionate in its own way.

Well that was Tian’an men Square, tick. I got my general bearings and headed in an L shape down the main road and then left back up to the Hotel. I could have got a Taxi but it would have been an extra bit of hassle. I’m certainly losing a bit of weight with my walking and probably, you might be surprised, by eating less and I am now 2 pounds above my ideal weight.

In the Hotel and a quick Buffet meal which was extremely disappointing. Not sure if its a timing of meals thing or time to move on thing, but the food isn’t exciting me like I had expected.

Forbidden City

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After a basic breakfast at the Hotel, I got my bearings to go out to the Forbidden City. I am only about a kilometre from the front gate and it was very easy to find. As I left the main road and went down a couple of side roads, you get a sense of basic street life. As a woman was stocking up her shops vegetables from a small rickshaw, she saw me coming but then spat on the pavement just in front of me. Note sure with all the hype on Bird Flu that people really get the hygiene thing. It was a conversation that Major Tom and I shared about India that was one of his hates.

As I approach the High Walls of the Forbidden City which is also known as the Palace Museum, I had the usual ‘Guides, Beggars and Rickshaws’. They really are a pain. Everyone is an ‘official guide’. That aside, the Forbidden City is an awesome complex which was built some 500 years ago. It is surrounded by walls that must be 50 feet high and a wide moat of about 120 feet. For the youngster among my followers and the Europeans, that would be about a 12 Metres Wall and 35 Metres moat width. While we are talking about Imperial Standards, just for interest, I have found that Japanese and Hong Kong drivers drive on the Left, Chinese drivers on the right and Indian drivers drive wherever there is a gap or a bit of space.

Back to the Forbidden City. Through the main gate and I must have been approached by 50 ‘guides’, who wanted to be my personal tutor for the trip. It is helped by the Palace office that gives a fast track line to allow these ‘guides’ to get quick tickets for their clients. This type of stuff really bugs me as it would be easy to remove the unofficial guides if you really wanted to and send them out to the paddy fields by the North Korean border, where they could sell you tour tickets into South Korea. Argh, I slipped a bit then. ‘Dunmoanin?’. Apologies.

I queued up and got a ticket for 40 RMB, which is 40 Yuan. Really cheap when you see the grounds. Even with the pound being very low against the Yuan it is still a good price.

As you enter the main gate, and I assume there must be another gate as people were walking up from the south as well, you are in a massive courtyard. And the courtyard is full of Chinese tourists. So picture this, you have just arrived by coach from another Chinese city, you are advised by your official guide to stay close as a group so they can keep you all inform and to assist this you should wear a unique Baseball Cap. To be really outstanding, wear a Red or a White one. As I tussle for a place in the queue and then in through the main gate, not forgetting that I have now an Automatic Guide around my neck that works by GPS, you enter another huge courtyard where you get a real feel for this enclosed City. For centuries it was off-grounds for everyone except the Emperors people and with a death penalty for anyone caught without permission. You would have to say that these people would be easy to spot, as they would either have to slip the main gate man a bag of rice or scale the walls and jump down the other side, breaking their legs in the process. Anyway, I am in this courtyard and their hat colour was a brilliant choice. There are red and white caps everywhere, interleved with black ones with a big red star, which are sold to the tourists by the main gate. I’m sure they don’t lose too may people and nobody gets on the wong bus.

So we are in. The grounds are amazing. A few of the buildings are closed due to refurb this month but it still leaves heaps to see. It goes on and on and on. From the photos you will eventually see when I find a way to load them or when I am in Singapore in 6 days time, the scale of the place was hard to capture. As a completely walled environment, I do not think I have ever seen anything of this size. When it was just the Emperor and his entourage, this would have been a very quiet place, very regal.

It was crowded today, but I did manage to get elbow room to get my pictures. It was a bit of a scrum at the main throne rooms, as every Chinese person pushed to get to the front. I was a bit lucky that I was taller than most and have longer arms than most, so with my camera way up in the air and caught most things without going into the ruck.

I was caught out once off my guard, when I stopped for a drink and a ‘volunteer’ said that I could see the private painting exhibition through a guarded wooden door way. We chatted about English accents and specifically the Geordie accent that she brought up, before I downed my drink and went through. It was a University art group selling their work. They were good though and I did buy a couple of small pieces. Even for a ‘student’ she had the haggle built in. She showed me a 4 piece set and they cost 300 Yuan, 30 pounds each. I did like it and for something that gave a hint of China and small enough to replace a pair of underpants in my suit case I agreed. “What about one to balance it?” She said. No, just one, that’s all I want. “I would make it 500 for two”. No I only want the one. “I could do it for 400?” OK, I said. And we struck a deal. They were rolled up and placed into a box. Maybe 2 pairs of underpants I thought!

I spent 4 hours at the Forbidden City before calling it a day. I’m here for 5 days and I will be taking it easy as the last 3 weeks I found that a crammed day knocks you back by two days and you do not enjoy it so much. I also don’t enjoy the constant pitching for business or as I found on the walk back to the hotel the commercial beggars.

The palace was certainly a place to go to again as I missed out so much, so maybe tomorrow afternoon.

My plan for the afternoon is to chill a bit. I believe there is a pool in the hotel somewhere.

There is a large lounge bar in the Hotel, with very attentive staff who speak very little English. I have been trying out my Translation Application and it doesn’t quite work perfectly. I ordered a sandwich and asked if I could have some Potato Chips (Crisps) with it. A toothe pick arrived. Having WiFi and the App, I typed my question and showed them the translation. Eureka! 69 pence investment vindicated. They hadn’t got any Crisps so I ended up with French Fries!

The evening was rounded in the A la Carte Restaurant as I want to be more choosy. Very extensive Chinese menu with a few things cooked that I wouldn’t do on eco grounds, like Shark Fin soup and dishes, but I finally went for the Pan Fried Goose Liver with a Pepper Sauce, delicious and soft, and a main course of Bull Frog with Chilli Peppers and Sticky rice. My question to you all is…Have you ever caught a Bull Frog? No ?, well I chased the pieces around a simmering serving dish for 30 minutes with Chop Sticks. It tasted like Chicken but with more bones and less meat. Well you have to try these things.

I had a small bottle of beer which was difficult to order, even thought I pointed to the next table and said ‘Tsingtao’. What they had difficulty in translation was whether I wanted a cold beer or a warm beer? Well let me think about that one.

First day done and undecided about my feelings on Beijing…hmm?

“Toto, I’ve a feeling that we’re not in Kansas anymore”

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Packing and travelling day Monday and Tuesday. I wake up early on Monday morning and it is obvious that last nights dinner is still lying heavy on my stomach, so I decide to skip breakfast completely. I know there is a lot of preparation for the staff to get my Japanese breakfast laid out so I give them notice of my intention.

I have got to a level with my packing that at capacity, if something new has to be loaded, then something old has to go. Today’s casualty was my pink striped shirt. I did find it a bit heavy in the humid heat, so it didn’t take long to sentence it to its fate. I am also practicing with what packing method works best? fold or roll? Today I tried the ‘roll’ method. There was one other candidate to go on my list, which was a bag of smalls and socks laundry. My better nature held true. “These people have been really pleasant, why should I wish my laundry even if I put it in the waste to these lovely people?” The Ryokan was so simple to pack from. I had a small built-in wardrobe, the rest of the room was empty apart from the low table and the bedding. You always fear that you will leave a shoe of a cable under the bed. With the futon, I just lifted it in the air. Easy.

After check-out, I wandered into the glorious sunshine to catch a cab. It is a really beautiful day. How hard would it be to get a taxi on a side street. I raised my hand and chose one of 3 that were willing to stop immediately. The back door and boot automatically opened and I am in and off. The Taxi drivers take immense pride in their taxi’s. The decorative cotton covers are in mint condition. They want you to have a good experience even for the shortest of journeys.

Up through Kyoto Station a ticket for the Shinkansen and navigation to the platform, car and seat. Perfectly on time.

I get to the edge of Kyoto and the scenes all around showed Mountains in the distance with snow capped peaks. It is a little chilly, so any rain would have topped them up yesterday. I throw on my anthem, ‘The World Ain’t Slowin’ Down’. Movement of the train is at the same pace as the song and it uplifts me immediately. I am travelling on the other side of the train for the way back and the scenary and buildings hold the same appeal. As I write this I am passing fields of Tea, that are organised in neat low curved hedgerows, field after field, hillside after hillside. I can wallow in its beauty, I just have trouble swallowing it.

You get a sense that you are in a beast of a train as it hurtles through tunnels and across its elevated tracks. And inside it’s really comfortable. I did go for First Class again as I wanted to finish off Kyoto as it deserved, relaxed.

Well let me enjoy the final bits of the journey with a bit more Country Music in my headphones.

From the hotel up at Tokyo’s Narita Airport I set out on Tuesday for Beijing and it is another blue skied day. I wasn’t expecting any issues until we got to the airport in Beijing. The flight took me through Shanghai and we were directed through transfers and immigration to catch the same plane that we had just got off. I think this is the fastest immigration check of any airport I have been to ever. There were 10 passengers going to Beijing, the rest moved off into Shanghai. We were directed as a group to a solitary area of the airport with no one but this small crew and passed the paperwork in 5 minutes. We were ushered across another empty area of the airport and then up into the Domestic Terminal. Now the flight was ‘Shanghai to Beijing’ an internal flight.

We headed like sheep as a group to the Gate which was filled with hundreds of Chinese people waiting for two flights, Ours and one other to another City. Nobody’s moving so I suspected something was up. Announcement…phew the other Flight has a delay and they don’t know when it will be taking off. Then, another Announcement…Technical fault on the flight to Beijing. I was thinking, I had guided my Beijing Hotel to arrange a car for me and I hadn’t thought through a ‘plan B’…hmm.

The terminal was floor to ceiling glass fronted so I walked down a little way to see if they had the bonnet up on the plane. No bonnet but 6 guys were standing with wrenches around one of the Wheels. We had come in a bit heavy, but however, we had a delay until it fixed. Use the time wisely I thought and started to wander in search of a Currency Exchange. A shop assistant stopped me and asked what I wanted, then explained that there is no Currency Exchange in the Domestic Terminal. And ATMs?, yes there are, but not on the Gate side. darn it! I always like to have some local cash in my pocket.

About 45 minutes late, the plane was called for boarding. Now reflect back to my Delhi to Hong Kong flight with the large Indian man. I don’t know if I have upset the booking gods?, or maybe I should have bought a good luck token from one of the many temples I have visited, however a Chinese man literally squeezed into his seat and it was the metal sided ones again. “Bing! Fasten Seats please!”.. Not a chance. He stood up again to find the seat belt he was sitting on and I did help him, by holding one side as he levered himself back in. He got the buckles to within a foot from each other. Still holding the one buckle I said, “Not today Sunshine”. He had been here before and asked for the extension belt. It’s the one that the Stewardesses do the demo with.

The change inside 24 hours from Japanese to Chinese was striking. Everyone on the plane was now Chinese and they have a more ‘can’t wait’ approach to things. If they have a window seat, they just step over whoever is there rather than waiting the person to get up. I noticed at the Gate the ‘Flight ready for boarding call’ was more like a Grand National Start and after landing and the usual announcement “We will be taxiing to the gate so remain seated with your seat belts fastened…” All you could hear was “Click, Click, Click, Click, Click” as all the belts unlatched one after another.

The Tokyo travellers were led onto a separate bus and into another quiet part of another quiet airport and straight to the Belt. I was thinking, I am now 90 minutes late for my car, fat chance. I was first of the Tokyo 10 to be out through Customs and I peered down the line of waiting Chinamen…but, there he was! with a board with the correct spelling of my name and he was dressed in his Red Bell Boy outfit. The driver was next to him. I was so pleased to see him that I shook his hand.

Within an hour I was in the Hotel with a Pint in my hand and the iPad open ready to Blog. My little issue is that China doesn’t like western blogging, so I am blog-blocked unless I send it by email to the boys and then get them to post. For an amazing city in a country that holds 19% of the worlds population there are still a lot of issues to resolve before it takes part in the big new world, unless of course it can do without us. I’ll reserve judgement as I the aim is to get to know a bit of China’s real past which should be exciting.

I am supposed to be very central to things here, but when I have risen at a leisurely hour tomorrow I will go exploring.

The Old Bamboo

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Well, I got through the night. The futon was OK, but I was in two minds as to whether to sleep on top of the thick quilt. At home my feet hang over the bed end. Last night they seemed to be in the way every time I want to turnover. And I left myself open for a mosquito that was hiding somewhere.

The alarm went off at 7.30am and I had to get up as I had a breakfast appointment with the hotel. Japanese people work on a principle of courtesy that, if you say a time, that is the time they will be ready. I got to the Dining Floor and my table for one was laid out ready for me. I should have taken a photo as it would be easier to explain, maybe tomorrow.

First of all, there was lots of it. The obligatory Tea, which I couldn’t stomach today, was poured for me and a glass of Iced Water.

The tray had a 3×3 compartment box, each held a small china bowl, each with its own pattern or shape. In each bowl there was a contribution to the meal. Here is my memory test. Seaweed, A wedge of Orange, A piece of Smoked Fish, Shredded Swede and Desiccated seaweed, Cabbage, Pickled Red Beans, a white vegetable (might have been shiitake mushroom) and pickled sliced onion. There was a plate with an Omelette with ginger and onion garnish, a bowl of Miso Soup, A cauldron for one which was steaming away when I arrived. This contained A block of Tofu, Ceps, White Cabbage, Spring Onions and a flat square disc of brown which was either a flavouring or maybe a label that had slipped off the inside of the steamer lid ? To accompany this there was a bowl of Salad, Sticky Rice and Layers of dried seaweed and a further small plate with 3 pickles. And some shredded cooked beef.

I made my way through most of it. Although I ate it I don’t really get tofu and I am not a fan of spongey omelettes. It was different.

So for today. The rain continues! I’m going to leave my computing in the hotel as well as my main camera and go in search of something to view with my little Canon Powershot.

I centre myself on Kyoto station and it is heaving with Japanese tourists enjoying Sunday and another day to catch the final Cherry Blossom. I look at the maps and decide on a train journey out to a place call Arashiyama is worth a go. The Tourist Information Office helped me with the best route and I was quickly on my way. The train was held up for 10 minutes at the start as a girl had dropped her bracelet down a crack in the seat. The guard with a screwdriver played the white knight.

Arashiyama is about 20 minutes by train and I had a simple map to get onto the route for the main Temple and the Bamboo Grove walk.

Arashiyama was charming. It reminded me of a cornish town in the summer, with people streaming down the roads. It’s buzzing with souvenir shops and small eateries, but all of them in place with the surroundings. A 10 minute walk and I am there. The Tenryuji Temple. With this one it was not so much the temple but its Gardens. The trees and shrubs were in bloom and you will see from the photos that it was very colourful. As I arrived the sun came out and it was starting to become a lovely day. Overall it was the coldest I have been while out in Asia and I was regretting not wearing another layer, but the sunshine masked that a bit.

Right next to the Temple is the famous Bamboo Groves. The bamboo shoots up 40 to 50 feet in the air and creaks as it sways in the wind. It is definitely from a scene of Crouching Tigers. It is no surprise that they use bamboo as scaffolding, when you see cane this big and thick. The wind was up so the bamboo swayed 20 to 30 feet from side to side. Deep green in colour it was remarkably calming.

I headed back into Kyoto with the intention of walking through the Nishiki Market again. On the way I stop for a caffeine top up at Starbucks. I got talking to a Fashion Designer, Ash, who was from Nottingham, but has family who live on the Warwick Road in Solihull and in Knowle. We shared our experiences of work life balance and it was a good break in the day to have a simple chat. He had a few hours to kill so I pointed him at the Nijojo Castle.

I made it across on the subway again to the Nishiki Market to see if the Australian lady had made it back to her friends, see my blog of yesterday, but as there were no flowers laid anywhere I guess it all ended up well. The Market was still alive with food merchants making their final push of the day. Halfway down there was a very strong smell of marijuana and I could see behind that there was a seller scraping what looked like long leaved tea leaves into paper bags. I could have got it all wrong but a bit of a coincidence.

Back to the Hotel and time for a shared Bath in the Ryokan. They had two hot baths in the basement to separate men and women. Shame. My Bath was empty so I wallowed for half an hour. I did feel a bit like this morning’s Tofu in the cauldron, so didn’t wait for it to cook completely. Very relaxing with piped japanese music. And I was thinking about what I will do when I get back home. Work no less! It was quite therapeutic being naked in a warm bath so nothing to do but think. I donned myself in my Kimono, so looked and felt the part.

Dinner was at 8pm and I had arranged for a traditional Japanese meal. I was in a small enclosed area of the Dining Room in the Ryokan by myself, being assisted by 3 Kimono dressed assistants. The youngest was about 70. Only one spoke a few words of English, but we managed to get through it. You will see from the photo’s the ingredients were all laid out and a pan was simmering away which had been prepared for my arrival. Finely slice beef, Light Cabbage and Large Spring onions were quickly blanched before dousing them into a couple of sauces. A tray of other things covered the table that had to be used as well. It was different and the textures were challenging. I wasn’t so sure about the Eel (well I think it was a type of Eel) as it has the crunch of a bit of gristle and was shaped like a large sliced olive, but the colour of raw lambs liver. I made my way through the the Beef and Cabbage, then through a plate of Sushi (Tuna, Prawns and Squid) and finally rice arrived to slop up the juices. A small prepared fruit salad gave me a great feeling that I was close to the end as I was very full.

So that’s me done with Kyoto. I have another DIY breakfast in the morning before checking out and then by Midday I will be heading back to Tokyo Airport to stay overnight before heading off to China.

My reflection of Kyoto is that I made a great choice and the cultural side of Japan has come through in bundles. I have no regrets for missing Tokyo’s bright lights as the two days in a Ryokan have give me more of an insight to the people and the way they live. For weeks now I have been tweeting about Values, Knowledge and Behaviours. The way these people live is very honest and endearing. Around Kyoto, your average city to look at it, they have found a way to live with their beliefs and have kept simple but important monuments and natural events central to the way of life.

I will come back again, some day.

Ryokan

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Good morning everyone from Kyoto. Konichiwa! Congratulations to Niece Isla on her Christening! I hope you have a lovely day today. Love to everyone of the Luxford’s, Dugdale’s, Smith’s and Friends who are celebrating the day.

I have a transit day today which means that I check out of my Railway Station Hotel and head a few miles across town to the Sanjo District, just by Gion, to a Ryokan. In the countryside Ryokan’s are little B&B’s that have ornate gardens and sometimes the options of Hot springs. In Town they are guesthouses that offer a bit more of a family attention. I’ll give you an insight later after I have check-in which isn’t until 3pm.

With my luggage in the hands of the Hotel concierge I have about 4 hours to kill in the town and as it is pouring down with rain I am not venturing to a temple today, but easing up to have a look at the shops and to hunt out the Nishiki Food Market which also has a number of boutique shops in the same area. Before getting on the subway, and it is still saturday morning, I head for Starbucks for a traditional Coffee and a Breakfast sandwich. There seems to be a lot of Americans conducting their constitutional rights to a Vente of Coffee and one Brit with a ‘Bacon Butty’. Suitably substained, I head up the line towards Shijo station. The rain is persistent but it is really humid. With my Coat hood up, it’s dry but it’s hot too. My bag is also getting rather wet and I am in fear of my Laptop and iPad getting drenched. Everyone has umberellas. Young, Old, Male, Female. Common sense prevails, but I can also see their logic. Why wrap up when it is warm. I went in search of a brollie and found a clear one with a white handle for about 3 pounds and it’s automatic. I wouldn’t have gone for such a challenging design in the UK, but here it’s really functional. It goes up quickly, it comes down easily. It is very lightweight and I can see all the crossing signs which I now obey 100%, even if the road is 10 feet wide and has no traffic.

After a couple of browses and purchases, I go up the side roads from the main shopping Street and find a traditional coffee house. A coffee bean seller at the front and at the back a large circular polished wooden bar with swivel seats around a coffee preparation stove and 4 baristas. A nice welcome, they guide me to where to put my bag and instantly a glass of Iced Water is placed in front of me. As I look around people are reading the local papers. A man and woman across the way, who must be in their 70s both remind me of the eiry character that played alongside Bogart in ‘Casablanca’. Amazing resemblence.

A reprise of white coffee and a piece of very sweet Lemon Merengue Pie and I am ready for another stroll.

I make my way through some of the back streets which are full of small restaurants and Ryokans and eventually I get to the Nishiri Food Market. The travel books are right, they sell things that you will not have seen in your life before. It seems that a lot of Japanese people had not seen them before either. Everyone was clicking. This is where you could do with a guide. As you don’t know if something is cooked or can be eaten raw, I thought best not to try, although I was tempted. Some of the different seafood was really an eye opener. From dried everything, to the most bizarre fish and shell fish you could think of. Even the vegetables were different. Have a look at some of the photos and you will see what I mean. Another funny moment. Think of the Market Street being about 200 yards long and packed with small shops side by side. I would say that there was about 50-60 Fish one alone. Over the tannoy a very pronounced Australian woman who has obvious got control of the situation talked in a loud voice…”this is a message for Marie Turnbull. Please return to the Fish Shop where you walked from, that is Marie Turnbull, come straightaway to the Fish Shop!”. Everyone was laughing at the sad prospect of Marie being able to find a shop that sells fish. The Japanese were laughing too, they definitively got the irony of the situation.

Not sure if it opens again tomorrow, but if it is still raining and I decide to stay local then this will be on my walking route.

I made one stop off along the way when I saw groups of Kids dancing in some sort of show at the front of one of the larger government building’s. The one group I snapped created a dance routine based on martial arts and was entertaining.

I made my way back to the Hotel by the station to pick up my bags. I had to get a ticket at Shijo Station to return. As I put my first coin in, the whole machine’s lights went out. I just looked at it, to more or less imply that it wasn’t me. Then the most funniest thing happened. A square of the instrument panel, a size of about 8 inchs by 8 inches, opened and a head popped through…”solly, so solly”. A ticket assistant with a hat and specticles appeared through this advent calendar sized door to keep me informed of his error. The coin was returned and I bowed and moved to the next machine. Did every machine have its own man? That would be customer service.

Before I left the Hotel, I paid a visit to the little boys room. Have a look at the photo. All the loo’s have a similar design out here. Heated seats, a gentle pre-flush as you sit down and then if you are up for it a Shower or a Bidet option, enough said. The one I though was hilarious was the ‘Flushing Noise’. If you want to be discreet then you can press a button which plays the sound of flushing water to mask any other deed that might be going on!

Then I’m off in a taxi to the Ryokan. A nice little entrance into a small reception and I am invited to sit to register. An aged assistant is in the background to tend to me. I thought, there is no way she is going to be able to wheel my 20 Kg bag let alone lift it. As my bag was wheeled by the fitter Manager to the elevator he invited me to sit at a table in a small reception area and a welcome drink would be served. Not again, it was Green Tea! And it tasted of Tea this time. I am too polite. Served on a small tray in a china bowl and lid, it was accompanied by a sweet biscuit in the shape of a boat with a sheaf of wheat inside. She waited out of eyesight until I had finished. Duly done I was led upstairs to my room. A small entrance hallway led into the Room and I had to take off my shoes and step up to a landing which had a door for the loo and one for the bathroom and then a sliding door into the main room. The room had a low table with two chairs without legs facing each other. On the table was plentiful supply of Green Tea. One wall was paper framed that was opaque to let through the light. On the floor there was straw matting. This was where I would sleep when the Futon appears.

The old lady slides the door behind me and I settle in. I was thinking, now what? In the cupboard there is a Kimono for my use. Quite fetching, with a green over jacket. Very Shogun.

I switch the TV on and flick through the channels.

As I don’t have a meal in the hotel tonight, that has been saved for tomorrow, I head out into the neighbourhood which is packed with places to eat. I don’t travel that far as the rain is now a deluge. My expensive umbrella didn’t like one of the gusts of wind, so I am at its mercy.

I pass a window which has has some nice looking plates of food. It is usual over here to have artificial plates of food in the window. This window had meat, lots of it, so I commit myself. Inside it turns out to be a Bavarian restaurant with german type music. German beer and a number of dishes that you would see in the middle of Munich, but definitely aimed at the Japanese consumer. I had some beef, which was sliced in bite sized pieces that could be picked up with Chopsticks. I tried to order the Steak with some Chips and a side of Onion rings. The Beef didn’t naturally have Chips, but the Pork above it on the menu did. I tried in vain to ask for Beef with chips. One of the offers was that I had Chicken and Chips instead. Could I have Onion Rings…yes! The Beef arrived and then the onion rings 15 minutes later. I think it was all a bit lost in translation, but they smiled all the way through it and with a few glasses of Dry Asahi beer I was content. I made a long circuit on the way back to the Ryokan to walk off the dinner. The rain was getting heavier and the crowds dispersing.

In my room, the TV which was still on from earlier, as I can’t find the off button, was showing pictures across the country of the bad weather, so maybe it is here to stay.

On my return to the room the table has been moved to one side and the Futon and bedding rolled out onto the straw floor. I’ll let you know how comfortable it is tomorrow.

I have my Kimono on. I think it is causing an issue with my lip synchronisation. Good night!

Beautiful blossom

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Well another day in Kyoto and the sun is shining and we have a blue sky.

I wander down to make the most of the Kyoto breakfast and tackle it with more gusto.  There was more structure to my meal this time.  Pork and Fish with my rice, Miso, and a few other vegetable bits.  Fills me up and I’m ready for a couple more tasks.

The hotel have given me some guidance on using the Kyoto buses.  The routes are pretty clear and the starting point is just across the road from me.  I had been told that the 101 or the 205 was going to take me to Kinkaku ji Temple.  The organised bus queues work well, it’s just the volume of the travellers.  There are a huge number of Japanese tourists in town.  Cherry Blossom seeks all the attention and it is supposed to be happening right now (or 2 weeks ago).  I start queuing for the 205 and a bus arrives and quickly fills up.  Then a 101 comes, so I leave the 205 queue and the 101 fills up.  No rush I thought, it’s a nice day for chatting, as long as someone can speak English.  Two girls behind me were doing just that.  A Japanese local and her University friend from France.  Both have excellent English as they studied together in Los Angeles.  We soon struck up the usual, “where are you from and are you travelling alone etc?”  My pitch is becoming well rehearsed.  It was good to have the Japanese girl there who gave the commentaries on the buses coming and going.  Even the bus with no number, which apparently was a 205 put on as an ‘extra’ by the bus company as they saw the queues were a bit too long.

We finally got on and they sat in from of me.  A Turkish couple sat to my left side as I had the normal back seat of the bus bench seat.  We introduced each other and shared stories of what they had seen.  It’s great to get real time Lonely Planet stuff and tips.  They had had similar problems to getting a room as I did, but they had to settle for staying in Osaka and commuting each day.

None of the foreign tourists knew where the buses stopped or how to get the return bus, but most had bought a simple day pass that allowed you to travel on anything inside the Kyoto area.  The general objective was that as Kinkaku ji was a major attraction, when the bus emptied, you get off, so I did.  It worked, again.

The temple in gold, appropriately named the ‘Golden Pavillion’ was another treasure.  With a lot of these temples they don’t have the pomp and ceremonies that I saw in India but amazing to see.  The gardens are well manicured with pure green trees adding context to the cherry blossom and the water.  The Koi Carp glide across the top of the water in the most safest of waters for them.

At the end of the looped pathway, there is a need to cool down and I have my second Green Tea whipped ice cream.  Note for the family back home, I thought “Dave, you’ve changed!”

Coming out of the gate I knew there were other shrines and gardens around but my following crowd had dispersed, so I may try that one another day.  I headed back to bus stop on the other side of the road.  A 204 appeared, the buses are really frequent, and I hopped on.  I assumed that 205 out maybe 204 in.  Wrong, 204 was a circular bus.  At least I wasn’t going to get lost, in an hour I will be back at the same stop.  My tourist maps were out straightaway to do some orienteering.  So I could get to a castle called Nijo-jo.  The map pointed that when we made a left turn, as it was an anti-clockwise service, I just got off and walked through the side streets to it.  I did this but asked the Driver as I was stepping off.  He got me to sit back down again and he would give me the nod.  Amazing he communicated all this to me when he didn’t speak a word of English.

He dropped me off, within 1 road of the Castle.  These people want to help you, even if you are an imbecile.

Nijo-jo Castle is a huge walled fort surrounded by a moat and inside there is another fort that is protected by water.  The gardens were in bloom, and yes, it was Cherry Blossom.  They are so proud of the varieties that they give you a separate spotting map.  The fort was a barefoot walk through the halls, but for me the gardens were the thing that set off the place.  I hope I have captured the right angles for the pictures to do them justice.

Time was already getting on towards late afternoon, so I headed back to the Sushi Bar that has been fuelling me.  I was welcomed at the door and the girl waited for me to order the large beer which I had done on the last 2 occasions.

I looked at the menu and saw that I was quickly going through the main ones.  Today there was Argentina Shrimp, which was probably caught off the Falklands coast, Salmon Roe, a couple of peculiar fish ones that I had to qualify, as it had a weird colour and I had the meat of I think it was Sea Urchin, which was as soft as smooth pate.  As they had greet me, the chefs and the staff shouted out as I left.  I had seen them do this for some of the locals, which left me feeling honoured.

Back to the hotel and decisions to be made. Do I or don’t I go to Tokyo? and have about a day to race around.  Whatever Hotel I chose I would have to be at an Airport Hotel for an early start on Tuesday morning.  I was thinking, I am enjoying Kyoto and there is one particular thing that I haven’t done here yet and that is to stay in a Ryokan, which is a guesthouse with more personal attention.  Hmm…Let’s have a look on the web at accommodation.  It has been difficult so far, but let me try.  And I am in luck!  A quick read up and a basic Ryokan is available in the Gion District.  Go for it, decision made.  If I regret not doing Tokyo, I could always double back maybe ??

In the evening I went to the Gion district in search of Geisha sightings.  Just one tonight, but in a busy walkway, but it was a traditional, painted face lady.  Very elegant and perfectly dressed.

I was also looking for somewhere suitable for dinner.  Having missed out on my first night, I found a restaurant that served local dishes.  As I was 15 minutes away from the last orders, I had to make a decision on a combination that looked tasty.   One picture showed a tray of about 11-12 small dishes that were brightly coloured.  I ate all of it, but have to say that I only knew what 4 items were on my tray.  I knew what Miso soup was, Tempura battered prawns, Tuna and rice.  I’ll describe a few and if any well travelled person knows, send me a reply.

A large egg cup of a plain jelly which looked like egg custard, but didnt taste like it.

A retangular block of Sweet jelly a bit like Turkish Delight

3 Lollipops of mixed brown, cream and green jelly, each with a sweet or sour topping

Well it went down, but I think an interpreter would have been useful.  The waiter apologised that he couldn’t tell me what they were in English.  Another first.  The world ain’t slowin’ down.

Kyoto Temples

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I woke this morning with an urge to take the Hotel’s ‘Kyoto’ buffet.  Actually to be factual, I work at 6.30am to take a FaceTime call with Jon, but as he was in Bed and had his light off we just caught up on a quick call, no picture.  I went back to bed for a while and then got up for my breakfast experience.  Well, you look around the restaurant for clues.  Everyone had a Tray (tick), they were using Chopsticks (tick), they had multiple bowls on their trays and there was the occasional Orange Juice…Hmm, how difficult could this be?  I did two circuits around the serving dishes and the labels, which were in Japanese English (Japanese words but using familiar letters)  Miso Soup (was clear, I stirred it, it went light brown).  1 bowl of that with some chopped spring onions.  Sticky Rice or Congee ?  Congee looked like white porridge and I didn’t know how I could eat it with chopsticks.  Sticky Rice it was, with a bit of Soy.  Now the next one I knew, but in its completed form, Beef Udon Noodles.  It was a thin broth, thick Udon Noodles and other larger bits in the bottom, which might have been beef.  Let’s go for that.  Well the serving spoon was a shallow paddle which didn’t grip the noodles and certainly didn’t hold the stock.  I tried very hard to be tidy, but most ended up in the tray.  The thing with wet noodles is that they are a bit like a slinky chain.  If one bit falls off your spoon, the rest follows.  I finished my tray off with a simple one of Yoghurt and Fruit and a Coffee.

I made my way swiftly through the selection.  Miso soup is a taste to be acquired.  I have not yet acquired the necessary sophistication for this drink-come-slurry.  It tasted of Tea.  Eating Udon noodles was again sloppy and subtle in taste and I added to the puddle in my tray and didn’t get much in my mouth.  There is a technique, but I will have to take lessons for it.

So with this completed and my bag packed for the day, I ventured locally to find some Temples.  Kyoto is blessed with many temples.  The Hotel guided me to my first, a 10 minute walk.  After 30 minutes I was sitting in a McDonalds sucking on a ‘Banilla’ milkshake working out where I was.  The sun was already beating down, the sky was blue and it was a nice day.  A kind assistant pointed me back generally in the direction I had come and a bit to the left.

The first Buddhist Temple and a pretty amazing one was the Toji Temple.  You will see a heap of photo’s for the Temple and the grounds.  The complex which goes back to 826 AD, although rebuilt after fire 4 times (the thought of Fools and Horses Trigger’s ‘Broom’ came to mind), it had an impressive 5 tier pagoda and this was the sign I should have been looking for when I got lost.  The grounds with more temples attributed to the founders of the learning were surrounded by Cherry Trees and the blossom was immense.  I took a huge number of photo’s and cut lots out before I posted them.  Apologies for the volume but I though they needed to be shown.

Culinary highlight was a Green Tea Whipped Ice Cream.  For one who hates the taste of tea, this was a triumph.

On the way to my next temple, I stopped by the Hotel to top up on water as it was a little bit draining.  Next I walked north to the Nishi Hongwanji, a temple devoted to another founder of the Buddhist learning.  The Japenese people have so much going for them.  You can see that they have a level of reasoning in their culture and values which I don’t think I have seen in any other country on my trips worldwide.  There link to Buddhism is at the core of how they live their lives and everyone tries to get on.  What a nation!  I’m sure Tokyo will/might be different (I am in two minds as to stay in Kyoto or Oaska and not bother with Tokyo) but even there I am expecting a level of reverence that big cities do not offer.

The scale of the Temples and how they are located is surprising.  Kyoto is a city just like any other with residential housing and shops linked by horizontal and vertical roads, but every now and then you get a break for a world class temple, garden or monument.  Once inside, you don’t notice or feel that the city is moving around you.

The final sister to this temple was about half a mile away.  It holds the worlds largest freestanding wooden structure as its prayer hall and temple.

On the way back I took in some Sushi and tried ones that I hadn’t before.  You will see from the  pictures what I consumed.  And all pretty good.

The evening was pretty slow, but I was running slower, so I called it an early night.  One of the things in my mind is what do I do the day after tomorrow.  Do I go to Tokyo or do I stay around here ?  keep you posted.

Sushi in Kyoto

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Well, it starts as a really wet one today.  I have made my way back to the Airport, where the Express Trains are in the basement of the complex.  The wind is up and the rain is horizontal.  All the airport police are wearing heavy sou’westers.  A policeman enters the bus we are on and checks IDs and Passports.  All highly civilised.  He turns at the front of the bus, thanks everyone and then salutes.  Japanese culture is really growing on me. The airport is empty as I make my way down to the basement to catch the train.  Surprising as this is the main airport for Tokyo.  The Ticket Office help me to get the right tickets to get to Kyoto, which will mean a change at Shinugawa.  It is an easier station than Tokyo to find your platform which I gladly accept.  I’ve chosen First Class for the way out to Kyoto, to top up my ‘comfort blanket’ and it is easier to get your baggage on board and the seat is reserved

All of the required details of train number and time are clearly printed on the reservation ticket.  I will be on the Shinkansen (bullet train) heading towards Hiroshima.  It says what time it departs and what time it arrives.  When I think back to the best of what we have to offer in the UK, we pale into their shadows.  I chuckled to myself watching a number of men standing in the smoking zone of the platform, topping up before going on the train.  Some had pollution masks which they lowered to have a cigarette!, ???

Onboard, my seat was a really comfortable armchair, a sort of upper class airline seat.  Welcomed with a face towel we are quickly and speedily on our way.

Any staff who head through the carriage bow on entry and exit.  They must think I am David Cameron or maybe it’s for the guy behind me?

I had just over 2 hours on the train, which was enjoyable as you would a disney ride.  The outer suburbs of Tokyo pass by and you do know you are in Japan just by looking at the roof tiles of even the most basic of houses.  I have always thought of them being Green or Red ridged tiles and my perception hasn’t been let down yet.  There is a lot of industry en route and the train intermittently hugs the coast line on my left hand side.  And of course Mountains, lots of them.  Godzilla has to live somewhere.  After about 45 minutes I catch my first glimpse of blue sky, the first I have seen in 4 days.  For me, blue sky is a motivator and a real pick me up.  My boys know that I take lots of photos of clouds and blue skies.  Maybe the weather will pick up?  We enter a tunnel and then as we come out the band of blue has got bigger.  The hills in the forefront are lush green and rippled.  A bit like the fur on those weird looking dogs that everyone wants to own, Shitsu I think ?  Not sure if that is spelt right or if I have just offended any Japanese readers.  Blue skies last until we are 15 minutes from Kyoto and then it turns deep grey again, but the rain stays off.

I remember one of the tripadvisor comments that my hotel is easy to find as you just take the West exit from the station.  But its all in Japanese.  I resorted to finding my hotel address and asking a policemen.  I am standing by the right exit as it happens, which also happens to be the left exit if you know what I mean.

As I turn, I look through the window on the first floor of the station and my Hotel is right across the street.  First thing to enter into my head was, not another Kings Cross hotel as I had found in India?  However, you don’t get that with Kyoto, it has a really friendly feel to the place and everything has order.  People are waiting to cross the road only when the Walking sign appears, taxis queue in order, no hawkers, no cattle, no home made carts.

I settle into the hotel which is a tiny room, but to be expected, with a bathroom which is like an airline toilet with a dinky bath and shower and typically a Japanese jacuzzi toilet.  We will see how that plays out in the next couple of days.

I venture back over to the Railway station for some very late lunch.  The Railway building is a massive complex.  I see a queue of locals waiting to get into a small Sushi bar, so I join and only have to wait a couple of minutes before I am seated.  They help me with an English menu, but it is quite simple.  Roughly £1 a plate for any plate, whether it be a weird fishy things or tempura.

This was the best Sushi that I have ever tasted.  I managed 8 plates before I had reached my limit.  Let me see if I can remember them and see if any of these appeal to you.  Mostly Sushi which means they rest on a bed of sticky rice…

Cuttlefish and Cod’s Roe with seaweed
Raw Squid
Raw Shrimp
Lobster in a seafood sauce
Pressed Smoked Eel
Dried Eel
Cook Shrimp
Octopus
Crab

Oh that’s 9 isn’t!

A nice mug of Sapporo beer.  Absolutely awesome.

As I had over done it a little, I went back to my room for a little siesta, which worked wonders.

I wanted to get my bearings but do something not too challenging, so I aimed for the Gion District, famous for its traditional Japanese houses and their Geisha.  I was going to say Geisha girls, but that is a different thing and a slightly different more personal art form.   I needed the subway.  I headed into the station and looked for an information point.  I followed the signs which took me back out of the station and I stood in a queue.   Unfortunately it was for Bus transportation, so I went back inside and retraced my steps and signs.  I could see the ticket machines and there was a button on them that said English, but it didn’t say how much to pay etc.  I looked for guidance from the ticket man at the barriers, who kindly guided that it would be 210 Yen to go to the first station, but unlike the London underground, not all the lines link, so I would have to buy another ticket when I got to the next station.  He looked where I was going as I had circled it in a map and he said “10 minute walk”.  I took his advice and thought I would go just one leg by Subway Train and then on foot.  But I was still in front of what looked like Slot Machines.  Resort to logic Dave!  So there are 4 colours of machines, maybe each represent a Line ?  No white line, but there is a white machine…hmm.  I put 300 Yen into one and then pressed the help button. He basically told me that it was for a Pass of some kind, but guided me to press the cancel button.  I was thinking, how far would it be to do it all on foot ??  I move to the Slot Machine number 2, a blue one.  My line was green.  I entered the money, then pressed all the buttons that flashed.  I won a ticket and some money in return, although it could have been my change.  For an extra bit of confidence I went back to my ticket man with my winnings and said “Is this right for Shijo?”  he smiled and nodded and then showed me where to put the ticket into the barrier.  He had more confidence of my small ticket of about 3 x 2 centimetres going into a slot the size of a credit card and working.  A light came on and I was in and the ticket appeared 2 metres away at the end of the gate.  It is an interesting navigation for something so simple as getting and using a ticket, but looking at every sign and poster for direction and all you can liken it to are Mahjong pieces and you will see my challenge.  Confidence for the next one, I thought.  Subway train came, orderly queues to get on and we are off.  I walked up the stairs to the main road and needed to ask for direction in which way to walk.  The two girls thought my pronunciation of Gion was funny, but they both pointed in the same way.  As I crossed a river I knew I was there, the map said the river would be there.  Instantly a number of large Chinese Lanterns lined the road and off the main road dimly lit side roads held traditional houses and restaurants.   I thought I must come back in the day light as well as it had some nice old wooden buildings with traditional bamboo blinds.

I walked without purpose, but keeping my route based on the main road.  I weaved in an out.  I spotted two Geisha up one alley, but it was too dark to get a photo. Eventually I got to the end of the main street at an intersection.

In front there was a large curvy house across the road and people were streaming in and out.  I followed and it led into more traditional buildings with street stalls selling all sorts of convenience foods.  It was a real party atmosphere.  I continued and it seemed to move into a park, with lots of people having picnics in the dark or under temporary lighting under the boughs of Cherry Trees in Blossom.   Apparently the Cherry Blossom came 2 weeks early this year which caught a lot of people out, so although I am expecting to see pink everywhere, it is probably the last week before it starts to fall.  There are girls and ladies in traditional Kimono’s and they look very elegant.  I continue to walk back down the opposite side of the road and into the back streets.  Less traditional on this side and more with an entertainment purpose.  Japanese business men were arriving in their taxis, so I guess there is a drinking house or two close-by.  A Geisha with Clients strolls passed.   She was carrying the main man’s briefcase and he look extremely ‘happy’ and drunk.

I made my way back to the Station and fancied a final bite to eat.  Everywhere seemed to be closing up at 10pm so I ended up in a fast food eatery a couple of hundred yards from my hotel.  It served Noodle and Rice dishes.  Pictures looked good, but I then saw how they ordered.  They went to a vending machine, selected a meal and then entered the money straight into the machine for a ticket.  I was puzzled in what to order as the pictures on the vending machine were not that helpful.  “Do you have an English Menu?” And one appeared.  Sorted ? No.  I went back to the server and said I would like this, pointing to Beef Udon Noodles.  She nodded then pointed back at the Vending machine.  A girl came to my rescue.  I pointed to the English Version of the Noodles and the picture and then to all the buttons on the vending machine and said which one?  She had trouble finding it too, but I ordered something.  It is at this stage that I would like to say that a Subway ticket appeared…But I had a receipt for something, which arrived as a Misu broth, a plate of cold noodles and finely sliced spring onions.  I slowly mixed then and did my best not to slop the juices over my Khaki trousers.  A drink accompanied this, which looked like a light green cordial.  I have no idea what the taste was, but everyone had one.  One for the internet I think.  Tea??

I think I can crack it next time or at least just copy the guy in front.  Well, first night in Kyoto and very content.

Travel day up to Japan

Quite an uneventful day today.  You couldn’t see Hong Kong Harbour at all this morning as the mist was so dense and it was raining. I didn’t care though, I was moving on.

Very few things to report on the way to the airport other than it all looked grim without sunshine. I haven’t opened my camera case today and if I had posted a photo today I think I would have stole someone else’s picture. I was in general people watching mood today. There is a fine line between interest and leering. I guess there is a legal issue somewhere in there too, but son Jon will have to give me guidance on that.

The Cathay Pacific flight to Tokyo was nice and smooth, so I sat back and leered, or took an observational interest in one of the Stewardesses who was a bit like Lucy Liu, maybe a couple of years on top, but stunning nonetheless. I must of leered a bit to much as she came over and asked if there was anything else she could get for me. I sat back with some Country Music in my ears and let the time literally fly by. I was surprised when they said we were coming into land.

Immigration at Tokyo Narita was extremely pleasant. Japanese people have a reputation for manners and even the officials at the airport didn’t let me down. As I went through immigration to Customs I was pulled up for a search of my bags. The guy talked to me politely throughout his examination and then bowed to me with a send off of “thanks for being courteous”.

I went on to the small arrivals hall and headed for the Information Desk. I had two questions, where can I catch the curtesy bus for my Hotel and where can I change some travellers cheques?  She was so specific in her answers, I wanted to go back and ask her a couple more things.

And it’s raining in Tokyo too.

The Hotel Bus arrived on time, the Hotel Check-in was great. And this is just an Airport Hotel that I need a stopover before heading to Kyoto in the morning. The only small issue I had was when I went for the elevators, a group of 150 airline girls finished a seminar at that moment. Life’s a bitch sometimes isn’t it.

The Hotels 3 restaurants all stop serving food at 10pm, which I found out as I asked the question at 9.55pm. I was pointed to a top floor bar, which has a large lounge area and a huge low bar. You can tell you are in Japan, as the seat height is a bit bigger than the Little Tikes set that Jon and Tom had as kids. That’s brought back a memory of Sunday’s when Jon was about 2 years old and he would eat himself to sleep while at the little red table and chair.

Back to the lounge bar, its very smokey up here. It is very unusual in today’s healthy climate to see this still in existence. Ironic that I am moving onto Kyoto tomorrow. I guess Japan and maybe China will be like this. Sapporo beer is cold and crisp and the limited food menu is passable. A seafood pilaff and a flambé of mixed berries with ice cream.

The lounge music is a bit 50s crooning which is fine for a candlelit entente, but tapping away on my iPad it is causing me to mis-type.

Time to get 40 winks. Night all, Kyoto tomorrow sometime.

Peak Viewing

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I awoke to a bit of a brighter day on public holiday Monday.  The mist and cloud had lightened a shade and although not clear across the harbour, the buildings looked sharper than they had since I arrived.  My plan was to get up to the Peak above Honk Kong Island, which is a favourite for tourists and locals alike.

The Ferry took me across to the Island.  It is funny that after just one trip your traveller confidence rises.  You have a comfort blank of ‘order’ that allows you to enjoy the trip a bit more.  My travel guide on the Web said to get the Number 15C bus from the Central Terminal.  That would take me to the start of the tram that steeply rises to the Peak.  As soon as I hit the bus stop, the bus, the number 15, arrived with “The Peak” as it destination.  Spot on, easy stuff.  The bus wove its way through the town and kept rising.  The views were amazing.  You get to the top of one stage and look down on the top of a skyscraper, then 2 minutes later you are looking down on another one.  It’s a bit like a LEGO town.  The buildings are slim and highly concentrated.  About 10 minutes in we have a great view of the Hong Kong racecourse.  This is a city of plenty of everything.  The in-between parts between the levels of road and the next curve in the road and between each of the main buildings are filled with dense greenery like broccoli.  In fact the whole of Hong Kong looks like a large Broccoli with organised toothpicks of buildings that descend down into the harbour.

The bus eventually stops in a station and everyone gets off so I decide to follow.  This should take me to the tram.  As we turn the corner we are in a large visitor area, surrounded by a couple of large buildings that hold shops and restaurants.  No sign of a tram though.  Everyone who was on the double decker bus had shot off in different directions.  I spotted a Tourist Information point, an old tram, that had a couple of girls inside.  “I need to find the tram that will take me to the top of the Peak, can you help?”.  “Oh, you are here, this is it”.  Johnny Tourist was back.  I think she may have been asked the same question a thousand time, so she gave me an answer without laughing.

There are two main buildings at The Peak, on the left a large observation tower and to the right a lower one with shops and restaurants.  I aim for the main viewing tower as it has the best angle to see both sides of the Island.  There are a lot of people around but not too many to cause queues.  I’ve been to the Lake District on a Public Holiday weekend and it isn’t a pleasurable experience.  Up on a host of escalators you finally arrive at the open top viewing gallery.  Although hazy and there is a hint of sunshine, but I wasn’t able to point accurately in which direction, but the Harbour and the view to Kowloon were excellent.  When you see apartment blocks in the UK they look an eyesore.  When you place them at different levels contrast them with the seasonal vegetable green trees in Hong Kong, it looks inviting.  On a clear day this must be one of the best views in the world.  I did the usual help for a couple of friends trying to take a photo in return for my photo.   Everyone is in the same boat.  Dad taking a photo of Mom and the Son, Son taking a photo of Mom and Dad…Never to be in the same photo.

After a quick lunch break, I headed for the Tram to take me down.  As it was full, I stood in the aisle of one of the two carriages.  I certainly got a feel for how steep the rail was by the angle that I had to stand and the pressure that was being exerted on my one leg.  Within a short while we were at the transfer point for the bus and I just followed the people in front of me until I saw a bus stop with ’15C’.  An open top Bus took us through winding roads of HK and back down to the Ferry Terminal.  Very enjoyable and great for photo’s (this is what I was hoping but you never know until you have them on the big screen).

From the Ferry I aimed into Kowloon in search of Temple Street.  This is one of Kowloon’s famous street markets.  They were setting up ready for the night market when I got there, but you got a sense for the masses of stalls in the narrow streets.  The area is bustling with hawkers and sellers, who want to drag you in for ‘Suits, Massages or Noodles’.  After a quick coffee to take a breather, I headed back up Nathan Street Kowloon’s busy main street, a bit like Oxford Street on steroids.  The tour operator hawkers were everywhere.  In India you didn’t know who was to confront you until they spoke.  In Kowloon, it is mostly young men and they are all dressed in smartly fitted black suits, white shirts and a matching tie.  The girls in similar attire.  I think it was mainly aimed at the wealthy Chinese visitors, as they didn’t approach me that often.  Watches and Suits were the main ones.  Even a pitch of “fake watch?” was one of them.

As I get up into the Hotel Room again at about 6pm, the sights of the Harbour lights are still a little disappointing, but I set myself a challenge to go and walk the promenade again, and I am glad I did.

The Promenade was alive with tourists doing the same thing as they did the night before.  Mapping their hands into the imprints of a famous Chinese actor, getting pose photo’s against the Bruce Lee statue or leaning against one of the many props that are along the harbour front.  My first feeling was that the outline of the buildings across the water had improved, then looking towards the Central Terminal it was much brighter than before.  As I passed Starbucks there was an announcement that the Harbour of Lights show would start shortly.  I had obviously missed this for the last two nights or had been facing the other way.  As I continued to walk towards the Ferry terminal, where there is a better vantage point, the numbers of tourists hanging around had increased.  The buildings were brighter and irrespective of the light show, my Hong Kong picture was on the cards!

The show started and although it was on both sides of the Harbour, all eyes were on the tall buildings on HK Island.  For the next 15 minutes the building lights and additional spots and lasers shone out to music.  It was spectacular.  I hope that my photo’s caught it well.

Back to the Hotel via a Harbour Bar.  I thought about staying here for a while as it was a nice place to watch people.  So I did, but I had arranged for a table in my Hotel’s 38th Floor restaurant overlooking the Harbour, so I didn’t stay for too long.  The restaurant was surprisingly empty and I had the best table in a glass corner that gave me a really wide view.  Food was western, but the Blue Crab Bisque, Medallions of Tenderloin (softest steak I have had in years) and a Mango Parfait were all, well, Perfect.  Washed down with a couple of glasses of an Australian Sauvignon Blanc.

My day was complete.  My Hong Kong trip was satisfied.

Hong Hong day

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Good morning and Happy Easter.  For clarity, I ate 10 easter eggs before leaving on my sabbatical, so I am in tune with you on this special day.

It’s Sunday morning here in Hong Kong and my good night sleep is being rewarded by a traditional English Breakfast.  I was tempted by a spicy soup or the noodles, but Easter Sunday is about tradition.  If I was at home today I would be planning a very traditional lunch.  I would be at Aston Villa for the Liverpool game and a ‘roast’ lunch of Balti Pie and Chips with Curry Sauce would be the order of the day.  Come on you Villa!  3 points today would make this a very very good day.  I digress, unreserved apologies for my lack of reverence.

I caught up on the Blog today after my embarrassment last night.  The Chinese are checking-out in their masses this morning, as I assume they will be back on their buses to the mainland shortly.

It is a bit brighter start to the day, but I am expecting it to pour later.  I am off to Hong Kong Island to walk around and get a feel for the place.  The general quietness and lack of building lights is leading me to think that my Hong Kong night skyline photo may not happen on this visit.

I head straight for the Star Ferry which will give me a 10 minute taxi across the harbour.

From the Ferry dock at Central Terminal the long clean ond open walkways take you straight into the of the best Shopping Malls I have every seen.  Hundreds of the top brand shops of the world in a massive 4 level complex.  London eat your heart out.  Worth a stroll just to see who and what is there.  I am not a shopper, more a procurer, but I still thought this was top drawer.

I aimed for the back end of the mall to move through town to the back end of which means that you walk up hill.  This is Hong Kong, it is built on a big hill.

As I left the mall and passed into the next main walkway, I noticed ladies sitting and talking on rolled out cardboard.  Sunday in Hong Kong means serving staff have a day off and they get together with each other and catch up.  It is almost a carnival with the amount of ladies and they are all smiling.  The latest iPhones are out, music is playing and they have picnics.  They are all glad not to be working, all happy and they are doing everything from video phoning to love ones to dancing.  The roads and every crossing point (Hong Kong people are good pedestrian) are packed with gabbling ladies.

Early afternoon, and it is a special day, I am in need of a beer,  I walk towards a Beer icon on my map that I have and it takes me straight to the Hong Kong Hard Rock cafe.   Replenished and good music and videos too.  I caught up with a couple from Cambridge who were going to a wedding out in the Philippines and stopped off for a couple of days in HK.  Nice to talk and share a few things.  I didn’t tell you about the Australian couple that I met at the Golden Temple in Amritsar.  They had been travelling around India for 12 weeks and they looked to be in their early 60’s.  They said their purpose was to see a lot of beautiful things before they died.  A lot of people say things like this but it is often conversational.  I really believed these people as they didn’t try to embellish it.

Anyway for my shallow reason I was in Hong Kong in a Hard Rock Cafe franchise having a good time and nothing more spiritual than that, although Jon Bonjovi’s ‘it’s my life’ made me think a bit about the lyrics.

Back through the shopping mall, I spied a Godiva shop with some small Easter Eggs and Chicks.      Well I did! and they were ace.

I made my way back to the harbour by following the thread that I had laid on the way out and jumped aboard the first ferry.  On the other side I turned left into yet anther enormous shopping mall, not so pretty, but a massive amount of brand names.  I wanted to make my way to an area where there we lots of street market stalls and lights on Shanghai Street.  At the time I got there it was getting dusky, there was a little drizzle and it was quiet.  The side streets and main streets in this part of town like their neon lights.  On the main road back towards the hotel, travel guides touted their wares, mostly to the Chinese visitors, but I did get the odd offer of a Watch.

In the evening I found a place to watch Aston Villa in a live game with Liverpool.  Liverpool FC is popular with the Chinese, even if they do find it hard to say, so I seemed to be the only one in the pub in support of the Claret and Blue.  For the first time ever in my life I put a football shirt on to go out while on holiday.  Luckily this years sponsor is a Chinese casino, so I sort of blended in.  We lost the football so enough said about that.  I did manage to get a half rack of ribs which had so much meat on them that I could only get through half of the portion.

I wandered back to the hotel to check if the skyline had lit up.  Unfortunately not.  Lots of colourful adverts but the building were in total darkness.  Note to the Mayor of Hong Kong…Sir, did you know that I am here.  I am on an old colonial audit tour, checking out if you are looking after the place and it appears that someone has knocked the plug for the lights out of its socket.  Can you please send someone around to correct please.  I need a photo.

Up to Hong Kong

Well my planning day and last day in Delhi wasn’t as productive as I thought.  The WiFi was as slow as a tax rebate and the options I was coming up with for Japan were not giving me what I needed.  It was a pack-up day too.  Interesting how your main Suitcase becomes almost like a room in your home.  You start to know every nook and cranny (that’s every little bit of space, for my friends outside the UK who are following.  My world map on my Blog Stats now shows following in Finland, India, Switzerland and the USA) although I expect the Chinese to be following me anyway), and the only thing that is missing is a light switch.  One thing I know is that it’s full and so is my carry-on bag and it weighs a shade under the 23 Kilo allowance.

When I went through one of the security screenings at the airport last night, they asked that all Electrical, Computing and Metal items were taken out and placed in a separate tray.  After the officer had inspected it, she looked puzzled at me and said “All these are going to go back into that bag?”, but everything now has an order and the chinese puzzle logic kicks in.

Before leaving the hotel, I had one last meal up in the rooftop restaurant. I knew it was going to be a very long and painful night as the flight wasn’t until 2.20am. I went for the Mutton Rogan Josh with my new found accompaniment Pea Puloa and Chapatis. The sauce was rich and just the right consistency for scooping into the Chapati.

Not only was the wind up in my body, but there was a very healthy wind across Delhi.  Kites were being flown from roof tops, that were so way up in the sky that they mixed with the birds.  I was thinking if anyone would do that in central London? other than Mary Poppins.

So off to the airport via the Express Train a straightforward check-in and through to the departures.  After my praises of the Delhi Domestic terminal, my quality check (yes this is what you do when you have 3 and a half hours before the flight) of the International area felt that it was getting a bit jadded, tired. Soft furnishing ripped, power sockets not working and a general dullness to what is a modern airport.

I asked for an extra bit of leg room in my Economy seat and it was perfect, what I should have asked for was a bigger width of seat. Over the years I have got used to a number of airplane types and especially seating. Being able to move your leg to one side under the arm rest is quite empowering when your backside numbs as the flight goes on.  The one I always hated was the seat which had fully enclosed metal dividers, and tonight it was one of those.  I had my usual aisle seat but was not expecting to have a huge Indian man sitting next me who overflowed into my space. You could image he was one of those as a kid that ate his siblings and went to make a sandwich when the adverts were on for the slimming clubs. My head was starting to throb with tireness as we took off, so I just leaned into the aisle and let him spread like Playdough across into my ‘territory’. I thought to warn him (as I have done with other long haul passengers in the past) that if I snore too loudly, to wake me.  I thought again, I thought live with it!  I woke a few of times in the night when crew spoke to me to offer food or when I heard that we needed to prepare for landing.  The fourth time was when we actually bumped down on landing.

Short and pleasant immigration (that’s the ‘process time’ not the ‘people’), baggage was there waiting on the belt and within 15 minutes from leaving the plane I was in the Express Train heading for Kowloon.  Kowloon faces Hong Kong Island and is supposed to be the best place for seeing the HK skyline.

Because it was an early flight I was expecting that the room would not be ready for occupation. I was right, so I put my main bag into conciege and went for a little stroll with the help of a map from the hotel.

It is a grey and murky day here in Hong Kong and the weather forecast says that it is due to stay like that for the next 3 days.  The hotel is about 300 yards from the Harbour and by the Star Ferry terminal, an icon of Hong Kong.  My North Face coat made its official first outing as the rain was falling, but apart from being tired I am happy with that.  What you immediately feel with Kowloon is that its designed with straight roads (very British city), which means that it will be easy to navigate and get home.  I headed straight for the water and the promenade which faces towards the skyscrapers of Hong Kong harbour.  I don’t think I will see it at its best as the cloud is so low that you can’t see some of the top floors.  At about 10.30am I am marking the area, but there is hardly anyone around.  The promenade is really nice and where I am walking has a Movies theme a bit like Broadway. I stop off at Starbucks. I haven’t had a fair cup of coffee since I left home two weeks ago. I added another day to that statistic. The coffee had a very earthy taste to it, which was weird.  I am sure I will have another to compare. A few people have since started promenading too.  Lots of people with Wheelie travel bags so have either just got here or who checked-out and have ‘no place else to go’ (I do like that Richard Gere line).  It is funny to see that the population of Indians has now changed to mostly Chinese, but with more International faces. The view across the dark choppy water is still amazing.  I can’t see the hillsides as they are in the mist but you can see the shape of the Hong Kong skyline.  Fingers crossed that the mist will rise and that the lights will come through in the next days.

Hong Kong celebrates Easter so it is holiday weekend, so not sure how that will affect anything??  it looks mighty dark in the mighty offices.

As the day goes on and turns into evening very early with the rain continuing to pour, the skyline starts to light up.  I have put my camera on a tripod in my bedroom to catch it lighting up.  By 8pm there were about 20 or so neon adverts in the sky, still not office lights. I nipped downstairs to have a Face Time call with Jon which again was a bit hit and miss on quality, but we caught up. Unfortunately it wasn’t the only thing that caught up. I was looking at the fixtures for the Premier League on the iPad and I dosed off to sleep in the Lobby.  A bit embarrassing when the Lobby is small and leads straight onto the open fronted Restaurant. I guess it was time to turn in.  Hopefully the rain will break for at least 15 minutes tomorrow to get the pictures and to satisfy my reason for coming. We’ll see…

By the way if you see any weird words in my Blog, it is probably due to the ‘intelligent’ software on my iPad.  I draft my thoughts on an Application called Notes and then cut and paste it. Sometimes it thinks, he didn’t want to say that he meant this, and corrects it.  I try to review but I tend to miss a bit.  Try going straight to my Blog at dunmoanin.com for the latest instead of the Email summary as it may make more sense in the edited version.  Of course, the writing may also be correct and just point out my failings!

Winding down in India

It’s been a travel day back from Amritsar today and I am starting to get into the mode of preparation for the next couple of countries, namely Hong Kong and Japan.

On waking this morning it was raining and surprisingly I was delighted.  It has been a bit dusty and dry out here so it will make for a change and a drop in the temperature of a few degrees.  My instinct was that if the driving was perilous in the dry it is even worse in the wet.  I was trying to impress to my Taxi driver this morning that I had plenty of time for my flight, but I don’t think he understood.  Yesterday’s drive on the way back from the border we passed a car that had just been involved in an accident.  Its front severely dented there were a heap of onlookers as we went by.  My driver talked to himself then did a little prayer.  I think it was along the lines of “There but for the grace of god go I” as it had clearly moved him that such things shouldn’t happen.  However, within 200 yards he was overtaking two cars on the dual carriageway down the middle of the white lines and blaring his horn for them to move out the way.

Leisurely flight to Delhi and the Express train again.  I am really impressed with this service.  It’s 3 times as good as the Heathrow Express and costs £1.40 each way and you get a running visible and audio commentary of exactly where you are.  The station terminals are also state of the art.

Feeling a bit hungry and in need of some basic food I kept my eyes peeled for the KFC which is prominently advertised and located in the Delhi Metro terminal.  As I wheeled my bag up the levels from the underground platform I noticed it was closed.  I assumed that they must have been closed for lunch.

Out into the infamous ‘back of the railway station’ I pulled my chariot with conviction through the on coming Tuk Tuks and Rickshaws and made my way to the Pre Paid Taxi Office.  I have now learned that you need to be more forthright.  Not as forceful as the Policeman I just passed with a 3 foot heavy bamboo ‘teaching’ stick.  “I need a Taxi for….” Price came back immediately and it was the same as a few days before.  A group of about 15 drivers were closely around me listening for dispatch.  I paid and a receipt was written. “So who is going to take me?, who knows where it is?”  They started discussing it between them and arguing.  A tall man with a white security uniform came to help me.  “So who will it be then?” I said.  He looked back in the office for help.  I started to gesture the route and to show my confidence that I knew where it was and therefore they should know.  One driver took the ticket and before we had left the group he started to light up what look like a spliff.  I pointed directly at him and said “and you can put that out now!” and he duly did, much to the amusement of the others.

And did he know the way.  Not a chance.  He had to keep stopping for directions.  He didn’t even see the hotel when we were parked outside it.

I have to say that India has given me a little perspective on its life.  I haven’t fully avoided all of the challenges that it deals with, but at the same time I am glad I haven’t ignored some of them.  My travelling friends have been a breath of fresh air.  It has been more an experience than a vacation and I am truly looking forward to the next 10 days just to recharge my batteries.  Everyone I have spoken to has said the same.  You go home or move on for a rest.   It has so many wonders to see and the people are on the whole friendly and with big hearts.  I really like the family values that they share.  The challenge I have found is that our western way of living is different to theirs and I am not going to judge, it’s just different.

In closing off on my India trip I have devised a simple game from my blogs over the last 14 days.  It’s a sort of India Bingo, I call it ‘I GO!’, where you need to see if you can remember the story where the word or couple of words came from.

I was going to make it competitive, but we will do it just for fun.  But to show you what you would might have won…

1. A copy of my cancelled Air India tickets to Amritsar

2. My recipe book for returning from ‘Delhi Belly’

3. A signed copy of my forthcoming bestseller ‘An Idiot guiding How to book Online!’

Here are the I GO key words…

Tuk Tuk

Wacky Backy

Pride

Echo

Rub a Dub

Wonders

Flip Flops

Permit Required

Headdress

Queuing

Woody

Grandfather

Tree

Pope

I spy

Stable

God

Eric

Serenity

Spin

Amsterdam

Fight Night

Imodium

Evacuation

Colonial History Test

And food today.  A Chicken Murgh Tikka Masala (Mild), with Pea Pulao and Chapatis.  Absolutely delicious.  And two packets of Skittles.  Appetite is coming back.

And for where next ? click on Where Next

Amritsar and Wagah

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To update my friend Gary Williams who is following my food blog, I did venture into the Restaurant late last night and most of the diners had already left, except for a particular large family of Indian’s, who had some particularly large family members, who were continuing to dig into the buffet. I needed to get something wholesome, but I couldn’t see anything on the a la carte menu that suited. The Head Waiter came over and I explained my general condition and that I would eat Indian food as long as he could recommend something that is low in all things that … enough said. “What I could do is get Chef to do you a little Chicken off the tandoori, with a little gravy and you chose what you would like with it”.  Bang on I thought.  I asked for some sides of Pulao Rice, a bit Pilau but spelt differently, and some plain Naan.

A Kingfisher beer (low alcohol one) arrived to test my inner strength.

The dish came and there was a huge bowl of Chicken in a mild spicy sauce of a rich red colour, the Rice, with Peas, Green Beans and Onions and the Naan which was a bit heavy in ghee.  In fact I think it was all a bit heavy in ghee, but it didn’t put me off.  I tucked in and it was delicious.  The Chicken texture was more like a piece of slow braised beef and very moist and the side dishes were really balanced with the main dish.  I managed just over half of it, but it was large and sat back. One of the junior waiters came over and checked if everything was OK.  He is obviously still learning the art of table service, as I noticed that each piece of cutlery was placed entangled with one another, a bit like pick-me-up sticks but putting them into a mess rather than removing one at a time. I said everything was excellent it is just that I cannot eat anymore.  I asked what it was called. He smiled but looked puzzled. I started to gesture if he had a pen so he could could write it down. Within seconds a Customer Care survey was in front of me and he is pointing to the Excellent box for the food. Then he said “Excellent Service too, yes?”  I nodded and just completed it. I went back to my original question “WHAT, WAS, IN, THE, SAUCE?”  He came back at me politely…”TO, MART, TOE SAUCE”.

Topped up I went off to bed to finish off my Blogs and to take a quick FaceTime with Tom and Jon back home.

The next day I slept in until 9am which did wonders, but I was feeling guilty that I needed to get on and do Amritsar.  I was a bit apprehensive.  Today is Holi Day, the festival of colour.  You’ll have seen people in pictures throwing paint and powders of colours, well it’s today.  Major Tom had warned me, but he wasn’t the only person since I have been here, that Holi can get a bit raucous. Some kids have started throwing real paint or Cow dung and also in some areas throw people into mud. As it was, throughout the day I only saw small number of stained people. I think that is more luck than judgement.

The Car and Driver I arranged arrived at around 11am and the plan was to go through until 6pm.  Pradeep was my driver today.  My plan was to spend 3-4 hours at the Golden Temple as the maps I had seen suggested that this was where the concentration of things that I wanted to see and then move onto the Wagah Border which was about 35Km away. The Temple was only a couple of Kilometres of drive. Pradeep stopped on the side of a roundabout and pointed me to a checkpoint barrier that said ‘no cars’. He was going to park the car up and then I would come back to this point when I have finished. He pointed in the general direction down the street which was heaving with people but I just mingled and followed the masses. The road bent around into an L shape, but all I could see was a bric-a-brac Old Amritsar.

I was looking for clues. As a Sikh temple, a lot of locals wore Turbuns, but a number of visitors mostly Indian had bandanas, orange bandanas.  Street sellers sold them for 10 Rupees.  I bought one and then continued with the masses. At this stage everyone was fighting for space with 3 wheeled bicycle taxis and motor bikes. You are warned about pickpockets, so you have all your senses tingling for the least amount of pulling or pushing.  At the next corner, which was still only about 200 yards from where Pradeep dropped me, I saw a sign saying ‘Shoes’ and the masses were queuing up, well, sort of orderly pushing in. In India, if you snooze you lose. I promptly removed them and took them to the counter in exchange for token. I watched the lady trying to squeeze my size 11 walking shoes into the wooden pigeon hole.  From there the procession continued. I was being looked at, a lot. Not so much my height, as some Punjabi’s are really tall, but that I was obviously a foreigner and unlikely to be a Sikh. There was coconut matting rolled out to save the feet all the way to the Temple, only about another 150 yards on and then as you step into the Temple you paddle your feet in a trough of water. A young guy next to me lent down and scooped a handful into his mouth, hmm, I won’t follow that one I thought. As I turned into the large archway the Golden Temple was there right in front of me.  In the middle of a pool of water and surrounded by the most beautiful white buildings and a walkway all around of inlaid marble. It was both bigger and more elaborate than I had thought.  I’m not going to say too much on this, just see the pictures. The people had a purpose with this temple and were showing their thanks by praying, in some cases prostrate facedown with their hands together pointing towards the Temple in the middle of the pond. The Temple laden in gold shone in the sunshine.

Looking to the massive queue to go into the actual temple itself, this was not going to on my checklist today. The guide books warned that thousands would attend and they did. Going around the edges and sitting crossed legged by the side of the pool, there was plenty of space,  I was stopped a few times to ask my name and what Country I came from.  One old Sikh who proudly had his Daughter and her two children with him saw that I was taking photo’s and invited me to take one of them, with my own camera. I could see he was having a really special time and so was I, so I obliged.  I went into the Akal Takht which is to the one end and sat down for 15 minutes rest. An old man smiled at me but then guided me to swivel a bit. I was obviously pointing the wrong way. Another man assured me I was fine after I had adjusted myself.

There is live prayer called out on loud speakers continually. You do get a sense of good feeling.

So overall summary, this was as awesome as the Taj Mahal but for different reasons.

I held off taking water or food which the Temple provides to visitors of all faiths, as I wanted to make sure I controlled my ‘diet’. The mornings breakfast had been 6 plain digestive biscuits. I hope no one was offended that I didn’t take any food.

I got to about 3 hours and called time. I needed water desperately. You couldn’t take bags into the Temple so I ventured out with only my Camera bag today. I returned on the route that I had taken and recovered my shoes and removed the headscarf and headed for anywhere with a clean looking fridge. Suitably refilled with water, I did a couple of circuits of the side streets. I moved down to the Jallanwala Bagh, which is the scene of the Sikh massacre by the British in 1919. Not our finest hour and I did feel uncomfortable being in there. Irony was that it happen on the 13 April, my birthday. After this I headed to the meeting point for my Taxi. You get used to saying “No” to touts and hawkers, that when Pradeep called to me I pushed him off too. He tried again. I think he found it funny too.

We were soon on the road to the border with Pakistan. When I first booked my Visa there were notes about not travelling to certain areas close to borders, but on the recommendation of Major Tom, I headed for Wagah a live border frontier between the countries. Things do heat up between the countries every now and then so I was thinking, how ‘cold war’ could this be?

The driver took me to within 1 Km of the gate and we parked up in one of the usual bits of waste ground, but in this case everyone was there for the same event and there was almost a carnival atmosphere about it. Hoards of people were walking down the road to queue for the event. Now with the privilege of being ‘Johnny Tourist’ and a Foreign Passport holder I was a ‘VIP’, so what ever happens I get a seat at the event. The crowds start building and Pradeep said that not everyone would get in (except VIPs). There were 3 gates at the ‘off’ and 3 gates at the finish all within an Army controlled piece of land. To the right, Ladies were allowed to stand at a specific gate, then Gents, then to the far left a number of VIP Groups. The gates open around 4pm.  At about 10 mins to the hour the Ladies gate opens and they serenely, if not with a bit of giggle and gabble, stream through and make their way up a partitioned walkway which is on one side of a two-laned avenue. I moved into place on the right side then the gates opened for the final two groups. The masses in the Gents lane start running and pushing. A bit like a spanish bull chase. My gate opens, but the only benefit is the gate itself as within 25 yards the paths merge and we are in the thick of it. You know I have talked about Indian queuing. We are soon in a lane which is getting narrower and narrower as a Soldier on a horse is blocking the road. The heaving means that you lose your feet but are pulled along by the group. I was also afraid of losing my wallet, passport or cash from my pockets.  There are lots of smiley people, but you wouldn’t know if anyone had stolen from you.  They tend not to wear hooped T-shirts and carry bags with loot written on the side.

We made a couple of right turns into a narrow lane and I was close to going over the barriers to the Ladies section. One section of a heavy metal barrier came down on the women’s side and one lady went mad. I could not translate a word, but I understood ever bit of her sentiment. At this stage I thought back to my Rugby coaching. Low centre of gravity and use the legs to lever. It worked, I must have been holding about 6 people from a small ledge of tarmac, before we levelled out. The columns narrowed to a single check point and a security check. The fresh Pop Corn sellers at the car park that do a roaring trade, see their produce tossed to one side as it can’t go any further. They must pop their corn every day knowing that the Army will search and discard it anyway.

We are then through to a mild walk for the last few hundred yards to the final split. Gate 3 for VIPs, thats all I am interested in. As we go into the viewing area, the Indian VIP’s that need to book are shown to tiered seat and Foreigners are show to a narrow band of concrete steps about 4 people wide, but they work well. I find myself sitting next to a Chilean girl.

The setting.  Think of a road that is passing between the two countries and there is an ‘Indian’ side and a ‘Pakistan’ side, with two high metal gates that stop any passage, one for each country. The Security Border Post was on one side of the road and the gallery of viewers on the other. As you go down the road, the people in the ‘cheap’ seats are also behind the ‘Border Post’.  There must be 3000-4000 Indian people who have come along for the event. Less on the Pakistan side. The gate opening ceremony starts at 5pm but as a warm up both sides blast music out. On the Pakistan side a couple of fat men run with Flags towards the border to the cheer of their crowd. The Indians have relays of girls and then women to take part in the flag run doing the same. The Crowd go wild. It is a real fun atmosphere but very patriotic. The music turns to bangra and the girls are dancing in the road and that goes on for 30 minutes.  They sound like the latest hits as the girls are having a great time, very Indian and very enjoyable. As the music comes to a halt, the play off between the opposite Armies starts with a rush to the gate on both sides. The Pakistani’s in Black dress and the Indian’s in Khaki. Very colourful. They compete for bugles and holding a chant note, soldier by soldier, interleaved with a march to the gate and a high kick and turn to present themselves. This goes on in a build up until a soldier on both sides throws open their side of the gate in exact timing and without touching, stamp and high kick at each other to show their ‘feathers’. It ends with a crossing of the national flags and then a closing of the gates. Highly charged and I think Indian supporters edged it for passion. This rounded off an excellent tour day.

And back to the hotel.

‘Up for a Kurry?’  (the Hotel’s spelling note mine) , yep.  I waited a bit too late so couldn’t finish it all but the Lamb Chop Kebab’s (Gary, just like Punjab Paradise) were excellent and a Prawn Kurry which was a bit average.  Well that’s Amritsar in a nutshell.

Heading north to Amritsar

The return train from Agra to Delhi was due in at 7.30am and I had a quick transfer by taxi.  At this early hour the place looks different. The temperature is ambient and people look happy to be about.  The station looked a much more interesting place than when I arrived 2 days ago.  Boys were walking down the tracks collecting plastic bottles, but being fuelled by lazy Indians who just threw them off the platform. I said I wouldn’t moan and I won’t, it was just different.

A man was being escorted by 4 armed police onto my train.  He was leashed with a long chain to one officer with a stick and there were 3 others with rifles that looked liked they had come out of World War 1.  It all seemed quite pleasant between them as they were all in happy conversation together.

It was fascinating to see people running over rail lines to catch a train from the wrong side.  Not sure how long I would survive back home doing that.  The train arrives late and unlike the process dictates, there is no seating chart pasted.  I managed to find my carriage with the help of the Guard, but the painted writing of ‘First Class’ was hardly visible on the dusty shell.

The station was really alive at this time.  The passengers, some of which had been travelling already for 9 hours, were hailed with “Pakora, Pakora, Pakora” then “Omlette, Omlette, Omlette”.  Boys were flying down the train picking up the breakfast business.  I’d been watching the food sellers on the platform before I alighted the train with their deep fried everything.

We were soon off and I was joining two guys that had been using the bunks as beds for the last section of the train.  The train left Agra about 20 mins late but managed to catch up on the lost time by the time we got to Delhi.  I had a long conversation with one of the men who was a Doctor in the field of Cancers.  There was a bit of purpose in my conversation as he said he was also getting off at Delhi too and I thought I could raise my understanding of the layout of the Railway Station. I needed to make my way over to the Airport Express and avoid the hassle of last friday.

In day light it certainly gives you more confidence of the layout of the Delhi Station and what to tactically avoid in advance.  The overhead walkway in the Station traversed all of the platforms.  I arrive at Platform 1 and the rear Exit was after Platform 16.  A couple of grunting hauls of my suitcase up a couple of flights of stairs and then a long walk over an open bridge. As I descended the final steps into the Car Park, it arrived right next to the Pre Paid Taxi office, and I could see the Metro Station, a nice new building, just 100 yards up the road.  To think that I had messed around for over an hour on Friday getting from the Metro to the taxi. I really must have looked like ‘Johnny Tourist’ and fair game for their game of fares. To think of all the travelling I had done through BT without too many hiccups.

The difference between the Street and the inside of the Metro Express Station is very stark.  Securitas guards are throughout this lovely oasis who basically keep the riff-raff out.

I knew I was really early into Delhi International Airport, some 6 hours early, but I couldn’t lug my wheelie bag around Delhi for a couple of hours.  Actually, I am getting a little tired with the constant barrage of the entrepreneurs and touts.  I was also really hungry for a meal.  The Airport at Delhi is really modern, bright and clean.  I approached Security at Departures Terminal as you need to be vetted before you go into the building.  He said that he wouldn’t let me in until 4 hours before the flight, but I should go to the Visitor Lounge at the end of the terminal.  I tried to get some advice inside this centre from Air India’s ‘Assistance’ kiosk.  What a misname that is.  I think ‘Assist’ is a verb so a ‘doing’ word, I had set my expectation a little high.  “I need some food and I need to wait until the 4 hours tolerance was up!”.  “Go to Arrivals downstairs there you will have it”. Down in the nice lifts and met by the Arrivals Security. “Yes, there are restaurants in here but you need to check your baggage first, you can’t come in here with your suitcase”. “Go back to the Visitor Lounge at the end of…”  By this stage I again looked like Johnny Tourist.  I gave in. I approached the Security at the entrance to the Waiting Lounge which was extremely strict and they checked my flight and passport and with nothing wrong let me in.  I was not only hungry I also had a craving for ‘Wine Gums’ or something similar.  I was trying to think of all the things back home that would meet the need.  Anyway, the Lounge did have a Coffee Stall with a number of snacks, mostly spicy. There were some Sandwich Rolls in cling film that I pointed to. “Chicken Burgers” the guy said.  Right answer, let me have one of those.  I did remember when coming from Kochi that they had a KFC in here somewhere.  He put it in the microwave and ‘ping’ it was ready, served with tomato sauce.  Yum, I thought.  Well it was a bun, it was Chicken and it did have salad on it.  The Chicken was a thin slice of processed meat and the lettuce and tomato had wilted with the power of the microwave.  It was the first salad I have had on trip.  Well I couldn’t wait any longer.  It was edible but a travellers nightmare.

I kicked my heels in the Lounge for a couple of hours and then headed to the back of the area, to yet another guard, who secured the entrance to Departures.  I’m in, let me find my flight, get checked-in and track down something chewy and sweet.  I found the flight board and went through first by ‘Time’, then by ‘Air India’.  Hmm, nothing.  Maybe it is one of those that is embedded in another hopper flight?  I went back to the ‘assistance office’ and waited patiently.  They had lots of people, but 5 or 6 were looking after one customer. Finally, I’m up. Within 30 seconds the man had reprinted my out and return flight, he said the return flight had changed by 30 mins but no problem. He scribble the Aisle and Counter for Check-in on the print out.  Off I went thinking about Fruit Pastilles. Straight to the front at Check-In. The smiley girl looked puzzled and turned to her colleague. They kept quoting my flight number and then tapping into their terminals.  The second girl came over and looked at my paperwork and then smiled directly at me. “Sir, you are 3 months too early for the flight!”  What a dipstick!, I thought.  I’ve been let loose on this big old world and had 2 bookings with the wrong date already.  Johnny Tourist should have gone to Skegness for a weeks holiday.

So I am starting to think quickly, can I re-book with Air India for tonight or do I call it a day now and rearrange my flight to Hong Kong?  The thought of the Golden Temple put me straight…and the Anthem.  Air India didn’t fly to Amritsar that evening but I knew Jet Airways did. They were the next window down and very responsive. They laughed when I told them the story. Sorted! and only 15 minutes further delay. Someone is looking down on me.  With eTicket in hand I walked off.

It got me thinking.  Not only did I fool myself, I fooled the Indian Army guards 3 times and the Air India assistance twice.  Well, all is well that ends well.

Check-in was not too bad other than my allowance of 20 Kilo was exceeded by 2.2Kg and there was an excess payment required, unless she said that I take 2 Kilo’s out of my main case and put it in my rucksack. I did just that with a quick juggle, but I should have said that I think I have lost 2Kg in weight through not eating today which would have compensated.

All done, I headed towards the Departure lounge in search of Wine Gums.  I compromise on Skittles. Maybe the Red Cross will pick this blog up ??

Descending into Amritsar now.  Bye y’all.

Taj Mahal

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Unfortunately my fears of some form of Delhi belly came to reality today.  Thankfully I had arranged for my driver Ali to pick me up after 9.30am.

I had been suitably stocked with medical supplies for the occasion, so we will see how it goes.  Ali and his co-driver, I have no idea why there were two people required other than the fact that one spoke pretty good tourist English, arrived at the hotel.   I told him that we will start with the Taj Mahal and see how we go.  He wanted to take me in a different order but I insisted.  He parked up and guided me how to get the ticket and what not to do.  A 10 seater electric golf trolley ferried the High Ticket payers (Foreigners) to within 200 yards of the gate. The Taj Mahal doesn’t allow vehicles to go any further to maintain the serenity of the place.  Once through the security scanners of the Army you immediately bump into ‘Guides’.  They stand there and do an assumptive sales close.  They talk about something and then say that they will be your guide for 100 Rupees.  You get a feel that they all do the Guide then Tour of their brother’s emporium.  There are also lots of touts who want to guide you on taking the best photos or sell you photos.  That aside, the whole site is really quite amazing and despite the volume of people and the pushing.  Yes, Indian’s have a tendency to push you if you are moving slowly in a queue.  Everyone knows that if you all run through a narrow space at the same time that you all get through quicker and safely.

Let’s talk about the Taj Mahal.  The first glimpse you get of the White Mausaleum, the pictures you see of this real wonder, is through a large domed gate.  From about 100 yards away, its like spying through a keyhole.  As you walk through the Gate, you really get a sense of ‘Wow’.  Bleached in the sunlight the marble is the brightest white.   The gardens and shallow ponds that create an aperitif for the main attraction are equally well manicured.  Built by the Shah Jahan as a tribute and resting ground for his wife.  He must have loved her a lot.  You can go off in any direction but lots of people try to see the central perspective that lines everything up and I have to say that is a special photo.  I hope I have done it proud.  In the sunlight it is hard to see the screen on your camera, so I made a double route to make sure.  The Mauseleum itself was a bit disappointing just due to the behaviour of the Indian tourists and the reaction of the security staff.  The sign says “No noise, no photography” and I think that is a bit of respect that the place deserves.  All you could hear was jabba, jabba, jabba as the sounds merged into one and Flash after Flash after Flash.  The security response was to blow a loud whistle and yell when a Flash went off.  Not quite the serenity that this deserved, more fitting a Milan local derby at the San Siro stadium.

But let me not detract from this wonder of architecture that has survived centuries to still be the icon of India.

Around the rest of the complex there are Templates and high walls of Red sandstone in a highly symmetrical layout.  It really is beautiful.  In this case pictures do say a 1000 words so just have a look.

I had about Two and a Half hours at the Taj Mahal and the sun was beginning to bake and my stomach was beginning to brew.  I made my way back to the the Driver in the exact reverse order, but also this time after having to forcefully tell a Bicycle Taxi to go away.  I advised the Driver to take me to the Hotel and he agreed that in this heat it is pointless seeing anything else until 4pm.  I was very hungry by this stage as I hadn’t eaten much in over a day but the only less spicy thing on the menu was some Pasta with Bolognese sauce.  It was fine though, not as in Milano, but…

At 4pm the two cohorts were in the Hotel Car Park waiting for me.  I told them that I would have to cancel my car now, but paid them a full days price to compensate them.  Ali asked if he could have a tip on top, but I just look at him and pointed to the 1000 Rupees I have given his co-pilot.  We had agreed a price of 960 the night before.  “Let me take you to one more location” said Ali.  I refused, but his co-pilot said “OK, but let me take you to see the treasure of Agra”.  This is when I could see that they were not listening and wanted to take me on the shopping trip.  This made me straighten up to my full high and I would say I was a foot taller than both of them.  They got the point, but did mutter between them as they left.  I know it is the way they doing things, but a pain nevertheless.  I really had seen what I had come for and it had beaten my expectation and I needed to fix myself for a long day up to Amritsar via the train and another flight from Delhi tomorrow, so I felt I had made the right decision.

Major Tom

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Not a good nights sleep on sunday night. The air conditioning was not at its best, my stomach was beginning to gurgle and the worry over whether I was to get a train seat to Agra was playing on my mine. The WiFi was playing up and I was behind in my contact with the Boys back home and my travel stories were Blog-jammed. WiFi is as important as water when you are travelling these days just because you get to rely on it being there. The check on the status of the rail ticket needed an online confirmation. Yes, I was starting to fret. My usual laid back and calculated approach was being put to the test. I was walking around the room at 6am holding my iPad in the air to get a better signal. Maybe I should have tipped a ‘WiFi man’ somewhere who would have turned up the volume somehow? Life is one big arbitrage in Delhi, that’s a jazzy word for saying everyone takes their cut. If there is a chance to be involved in the deal or introduce someone then they will do it. Very entrepreneurial from a country which is basically run on communism.

I had a very Indian breakfast this morning of Cornflakes and Fried Egg on toast and I was listening to the radio commentary blaring out across the open roof restaurant for the India v Australia test match.

I checked out and had an hour to waste so thought I would do a bit of sunday morning people watching. The hotel has a large glass frontage that views the street and also a security guard to try to stop the intrusion. A couple of guys are wailing a chant, dressed in what looks like the remnant of christmas tree decorations and their faces were painted dark brown black. They whack the glass door and then hold their hands out for a contribution. It wasn’t aimed at me, it was for the hotel who ignored them at first and then told them more forcefully. I got myself comfortable looking out.

The usual tuk tuk’s and taxis weaved each other in the street. A number of carts passed by selling nuts and seeds and then surprisingly a Bullock dragging a cart with 8 guys on board. Two were playing drums with their hands and the back two boys were dragging a large tree to the rear. The tree was full of leaves and branches must have been 15 feet in length. I was thinking, is this some kind of religious thing ??? Two minutes later another Bullock went by. A cart breaks down right outside. His cart is a 3 wheel bicycle and one of them has fallen off. He piles the large stash of wares to one side, much to the disgust of all others road users In a flash, the Boxes are onto another 3 wheel cart and the broken cart gets placed on top of that.

Oh and I forgot to tell you, my rail ticket was ‘Confirmed’ this morning, within 2 hours before departure. Quite a relief as I really didn’t want any chance of missing the Taj Mahal, one of the main checklist items for India.

Well, I was thinking let’s see how take-two of getting into the railway station would be, the same New Delhi station that caused my heart palpitations on Friday. I took a Taxi to the front of the Station where it was very open with a small concourse. To my delight it had a huge Departures Board, which immediately gave me a comfort feeling. Now when I talked in my Blog a couple of weeks ago about feeling that I was the main character of the Truman Show ?….On the departures board there were about 25 Trains, which flashed between Hindu and English every 20 seconds. All the Departures were in Yellow except for mine which was in White. It had an extra comment saying ‘Reschedule’, which is the India Rail’s term for ‘delayed’. No problem I have loads of time, but I peered through the railing and could see that my platform had lots of people on it that were waiting for the preceding train. I stayed put.

I was fortunate that the platform was the first through the security gate and a train had arrived for the earlier departure which was a similar sort of long distance express type train It arrived about 15 minutes before the Departure time. I saw people get off and thought as soon as it moves I will go through and appreciate a bit less hassle. I knew I might have a wait so I employed a simple ploy to avoid the various Hawkers. I put my iPhone Earplugs in and turned up the volume. I thought if I can’t hear them they don’t exist. Let me go back on a similar thought I had when I was 7 years old and in Primary School. We were in the Assembly Hall with the whole school doing the morning prayers. “Close your eyes and say after me the Lords Prayer…”. My thinking was that if I had my eyes closed I could bob up and down (I was always active) and nobody would see me. That was true for the 200 other children in the Hall but not for the 10 Teachers watching me! I saw the headmaster for that one. Anyway, after the obligatory travel anthem, I put on a Tim McGraw Album. First track ‘Live Like You Were Dying’, although a morbid title, great lyrics. And the Hawker shield ? worked a treat.

The train that had pulled up now over an hour ago, was still there. I moved through Security and walked straight to the platform. It was crowded with Coolies running with luggage and large see-saw type barrows laden with what looked like potatoes or onions. A man was fast asleep in front of me on a rolled out plastic sheet. The Passenger lists were eventually glued to the end of each Carriage and to my Truman amazement, my Berth was right in front of me. The time was ticking close to the delayed departure time and passengers started banging on windows as the doors hadn’t opened. There was about 15-20 carriages so a lot of people to load up. Eventually we were on. Of the 4 bunk beds in my Compartment there were only 2 occupied at this Station. Let me introduce my Travel Companion until Agra ‘Major Tom’ or to be very precise Colonel Tomajeet of the Indian Army. After an exchange over the electric sockets for our iPhones and my Heath Robbins and inaugural use of my Gorilla camera tripod, a 3 legged device that has bendy legs, which was used to hold the plug in place, we started to chat over everything from families to travel and …Strategy. He is a keen Golfer who only took up the sport 2 years ago but plays off 8! we covered India and Politics and I think again yet another person who shared similar values to myself. Great Guy and excellent company. It made the 3 and half hour journey fly by.

And into Agra, I got off the train and to show my confidence as there was not an Exit sign I turned left, after 25 yards I realised that this was contra to the direction that the other 500 passenger who also got off were going. Taxi into the Hotel was pretty straightforward with the customary pitch of how he could look after my itinerary for my day in Agra.

I didn’t have the head for a Beer tonight so stuck with some Tonic Waters as I was feeling a bit off. I ordered some simple Tandoori chicken and Naan bread, but after 10 minutes and the sound of the live music in the restaurant (2 locals with bongos and some kind of squeezebox) I called it a night.

Delhi in a day

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The hotel bed was very comfortable after my week of battling mosquitos. Today was a day to do the highlights of Delhi. I knew there was a lot more, but in the heat I was going to try for 3 or 4 main things. I made up a a list of the Red Fort, the Lotus Temple, the National Museum, India Gate and Qutab Minar.

It was a leisurely start as I knew up to 8 hours with a a driver would be quite tiring.

I arrange a car through the hotel and within 5 minutes he had promptly turned up outside the hotel next door. I had a tourist map supplied by the Hotel with the main sights printed on it and was something I could just point at. My driver today was Mohan, who spoke very little english, but if I said the place name 3 times and said “next” he did get it. We resorted to the map a few times as I was mispronouncing the sites anyway. My translation application on the iPad has thus far proved to be a waste of time as it only works in the hotel. I will know in the next couple of weeks if the 69 pence application has been value for money.

The first sight was the Red Fort. All of these areas have semi ‘official’ parking, which costs somewhere between 20 and 50 rupees. We finally got through the local traffic and pulled onto a bit of waste ground encircled by wooden beds. The area was a main tourist area so also attracts everyone else. It is amazing what they will sell on the streets. In one there was a pile of Flip Flops that could have come straight from the beach in Kochi. Every trader maximises the space to show their wares. Very colourful, if not a bit chaotic. It was good to have Mohan with me as we had another 400 yards to walk to the entrance of the Fort and via the smelliest of underpasses. Hawkers, Sellers and wanna-be Guides were shouting at me as soon as I got in sight. They never really give up. When I write my last blog on India, please someone remind me to pick out the top 10 ‘pitches’. The final words are often ‘my name is…remember me!’

Mohan told me where to meet as he wouldn’t be going inside with me.

The Red Fort was very impressive. Although now abandoned by the Indian Army, and like all of the tourist sights, there was a big armed Army presence at the gates and inside the attraction. As for the Fort, built in the 17th Century by a Shah, this was more like a walled city. I had imagined a place like Warwick Castle but this was a massive compound. The buildings and opulence was still here and although it has been through many hands over the years and despite the plundering the key buildings remain. Looking at the inside you do get a sense of the colonial British Army as well as some very beautiful Indian decor.

I saw an Indian man taking a photo of his wife and son and I did the right thing to offer my help so that he could be in the picture too. Click, I then pointed to my camera, he smiled. I was then very surprised that his family lined up by the side of me. Click. He showed his gratitude by attempting to touch my feet, well that’s what I though he was doing. He may have just dropped his lens cap.

As you entered the fort there was a bazaar type mall of jewellery shops. Fairly laid back being that there must have been 30 to 40 shop keepers vying for the same business. I continued to amble through the complex and one museum caught my eye. It was the Museum of India’s struggle against the British. If I ignored it then it would have been disrespectful. The museum displays were a series of paintings depicting mostly the retaliation by the united India forces against the British and East India Trading Company over our time of roving in India. It really made me feel that I had done something bad and that everyone was looking at me. I think if they had asked me if I was English, I would have said ‘no, I am Dutch’ (but you never now what suffering the Dutch imposed on India as well). You do have a lot of people with Orange hair out here.

We made our way back to the Car but by this time the traffic was at gridlock. At times like this, self delegated traffic policeman guide cars down pavements or any space for that matter. I could not see a Brit driving in Delhi. It is an art. How a car of the size of a Ford Fiesta can stop an oncoming rtruck-like Indian Bus made in the 50’s is just amazing to watch. We eventually get out and then make a hasty U turn and we are up to speed for at least 150 yards. We pass the Cricket Ground where the India-Australian Test was being played and make our way over to ‘India Gate’. The Gate is a bit like the Arc de Triomphe, but not French. Dedicated to those who died during WW1 and 2.

The sun was blazing down and I had a walk around for photo opportunities. Very impressive and clean and highly secured by armed military and police. The avenue of land to both sides of the Gate is a nice open thoroughfare, in stark contrast with the rest of central Delhi. On the one side, from the President’s Residence and the Government buildings looking towards India Gate, it is quite spectacular. A bit like the Queen’s view down The Mall, but longer.

We then headed off to a Sweet Centre for a snack. Yes, fresh Ras Malai! My family know how much I like it and a Donut-type ball filled with a Pistachio centre. There must have been 100 people eating there, so very popular. I wonder what ‘popular’ really means in Delhi with a population of 12.6 Million?

Next the National Museum. You will recall that I called into the Natural History Museum in London a few weeks back. Having time on my hands I wanted to see a bit of India’s heritage. Very interesting. I wish I had a better appreciation of the Gods and their stories. Krishna seemed to be a very popular fellow who was always adorned by women.

Getting close to the final circuit although they were spaced out across the city, ‘Next’, The Lotus Temple, run by a faith which accepts all other faiths and the building is open to visitors for quiet prayer for a long as you like. The building is designed as a Lotus Flower and arches a bit like Sydney Opera House for some parts. It is at the centre of a vast manicured garden. Everyone is barefoot through the temple and it did give me a good feeling and time to reflect on a few things and attempt a prayer. On exiting, and at my meeting point, there were lots of people and lots of cars. After 10 minutes a hand appeared out the crowd. I’m also getting better at crossing the road now!

Finally, the Qutub Minar. I hope I have spelt that right, a Muslim Temple and a victory monument remains with a huge tower. I was told that the tower is now listing so they have stopped tourist from going up. With the lowering sun it lit up bright Red. There were lots of remains in courtyards dating back many centuries.

I was getting really tired and all I wanted now was to stop. On the final way back, Mohan showed me the President’s Residence, the Government Buildings and Parliament and the view down to the India Gate in the distance. Like in all other Countries the cream of governors have the finest of places to work and sleep.

Back to the hotel for a shower, not forgetting to close the curtains before entering my goldfish bowl. I then headed up to the roof top Restaurant. A group of about a dozen Australians were celebrating that they were on the verge of their first Test win in 15 games. They are always so passionate about their cricket.

With the restaurant filling up a Swiss-Italian couple Lucia and Andreas joined my table and we struck up the usual conversation around ‘what are you eating’. Lucia’s philosophy is quite sound. If you don’t know what to eat and can’t read the menu, just look at what everyone else is having and point. Lucia is German Italian (Sicilian) and Andreas is Swiss Italian. They had been travelling for 17 days around India and were going home in the morning. It was an eye opener for them too. They had looked at trying to get a flight home after 7 days but Lufthansa wasn’t playing ball. We shared stories of the litter, begging, entrepreneurs, the driving etc etc as well as their experience of having Malaria tests during the holiday. I think that Lucia was looking forward to a plate of Pasta. Lovely couple and I wish them well. Lucia is also trying out for a Master Chef programme in Italy, but I would doubt that garam masala will be in any of her recipes.

Belly to Delhi

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I seem to have talked a lot about food this week, so I promise to try harder at other cultural things up in North. This is just a day of travel so pretty mundane I was thinking.

From Kochi the taxi made a more circular route at a non rush-hour time to the airport which was mostly free of incident. I did hear the driver wince twice, once when a tuk tuk nearly took took him out and the other when I said that the fine for using a mobile phone while driving in the UK was £1000 (72,000 Rupees). He had just quickly lowered his phone when he saw a traffic policeman. The driver said that he earned 72,000 Rupees a year. Dropped at the airport front door, the nice clean airport was quiet and small. There was a tiny mall of 12-14 shops in the open side of the airport which I tried to see if I could get some sweets for the trip. Talk about hen house. Each shop had a woman sales assistant who called out “Sir, inside!” immediately as I approached. It was funny to watch as I tried not to make eye contact. As it was a closed ended mall, I had the same calls on the way back.

The rest of the airport was again a nice small provincial experience. Moving from Security through to the Departure lounge was really easy. Note to Heathrow, their rows of wooden armchairs were really comfortable, something you would have seen in your Gran’s house as a kid. A coffee and a fresh plump spicy samosa and well, that was about it.

The flight up to Delhi calls into Hyderabad on the way through and the first leg flight was empty. Comfortable with lots of room, a bit of Jana Kramer in my ‘phones and yet another meal. I don’t think I’m putting on weight?

Into Hyderabad we had a false landing at about 200 feet and had to re-ascend quickly. The Pilot apologised. A nice landing when it finally happened. Some people got off the plane and we took on other passengers. The Delhi part was full and added the dreaded businessmen too, I’ve been there. You squeeze everything into your oversize bag then play chinese puzzles with the overhead bins to make it fit.

An Indian Man with his family started up a conversation with me and offered some really useful advice on what to see in Delhi and how to go about doing it. He even typed things straight into my iPad. So just in case anyone bumps into him if you are ever in Delhi, his name is Ravi Gupta.

Into Delhi Airport, really impressed, straight onto the Airport Express, very impressed, impressive express station at New Delhi as well. I read in the Hindustani Times, as you do, that they were looking to invest in a new overhead walkway which would link the Delhi Airport Express Metro, The Metro and the Central Rail Station as they were about 200 yards apart from each other. Not a great deal?, keep reading. All I wanted was a Taxi. Oh My God! It was really dark outside the Express Metro Station with limited street lighting, I thought, if I looked like I knew what I was doing then the many Tuk Tuk drivers and Hawkers wouldn’t bother me. Getting past the first 20 I thought would be the hardest. “No, no tuk tuk, a taxi”, one off, next a square cut into the covers (cricket terms for the unaware), but there were just too many. One Tuk Tuk man knew I wasn’t budging and pointed to another dark area but with hundreds of people going to and fro and just said ‘Gate!’ I am sure in daylight this would not have looked like an evacuation scene, but it was amazingly frenetic. I think ‘Gate’ meant the Station entrance.

I looked up and saw a large building, which was across a road with a flow of moving cars and tuk tuk’s leaving the station. One thing I noticed in Kerala was that despite the hooting at pedestrians no driver actually wanted to hit any of them. So I trusted in my hypothesis and just went for it. Not sure why I felt so pleased with myself to just cross a road. I passed by all the porters, opportunistic taxi drivers and got up into the main Railway Station. Oh My God!, again. I thought, I have to try and catch a train from here on Sunday without a confirmed ticket (still Waitlist No.1). There were people everywhere and the lighting was dreadful. Outside there were taxi’s and Tuk Tuk’s bumper to bumper but I didn’t want to do a tour of Delhi and I knew the Hotel was about only a Kilometre away, so needed the official route. Ravi had told me there was an official taxi rate and it was ‘no problem to get one’. There is a saying in strategy, in that if you don’t know where you are going, any road will lead you there. I definitely did not have a clue which way, so wasn’t going to attempt to walk. Well, not at night.

Inside the station people were rushing in every direction. I spotted an Enquiry window, but as I approached, a guy from the side f me said “for Indians only”. I asked, “are you an Official?”, he said yes. I said I wanted to know how to get a taxi. I showed him the address and then the bullshit started. “You need a permit to get to that Hotel. You need to get a Tuk Tuk to a place call ‘Connaught’ (I had heard of that) but then he said you buy a permit and then and only then you are allowed to go to the area. It costs 150 Rupees. I gave him the look and my Indian spin bowler twisted wrist gesture and walked off. I thought the Prepaid Taxi desk must be somewhere around here. All hawker drivers could see I had luggage which meant a possible ride to the airport which is very lucrative, so one after another they pitched to me. Found it! At the end of the station frontage. It seemed that the hawkers for business had better slots than the ‘official’ taxis. Anyway, at the office there were 2 windows next to each other. ‘Auto’ and ‘Taxi ‘. I was approached for a taxi even while standing talking to the office. “Airport?”. I told them it was all local and they became less interested. The drivers pointed me to the Taxi window, in hindsight that may have been wrong. An old guy the spitting image of Mahatma Gandhi (Ben Kingsley) asked me where I was going, but a second before I had spotted a chart on the wall with range and zones and prices. I told him it was a close one and nodded forcefully and he started writing the ticket. “85 Rupees!”. Not sure how he derived that but fixed and low enough was fine. He handed it to a driver that entered the back of the office. He went ballistic. I could see where he was coming from in that he had waited for his turn and this foreigner…a short journey and then I will be back of the queue. He took it while shaking his head. I followed.

The taxi looked like some kind of hippy camper van you would have seen in the 60’s. He threw my case on the back seat and told me to get in by the side of it. My knees were up by my chin, it was a tiny van. In his rage he then reversed out of the parking area and straight square into a tuk tuk. There was no one in the other vehicle. The drivers around all gabbled and someone picked up a piece from his bumper and handed it to him. Eventually we set off but in heavy traffic within seconds. Horns everywhere and unusual loads of all sorts of descriptions being carted by cycle rickshaw and hand cart. Driving something Small is key in this city to avoid those driving something Big. They drive so close that you could shake hands. We eventually arrive at a side road off the main route which is heavily populated with pedestrian. There was a whole host of shops and businesses mostly operating out onto the street. Neon lights pointed to hotels and the cars beeped their ways through the mayhem. I arrive. A small boutique hotel with a neon light up the side. Checked in and shown to my room the porter sang to me in the glass lift going up to my room. He obviously mistook me for someone important.

Following my blog of a couple of days ago, let me tell you that my room on the fourth floor has the letters G, O and D outside my window. It is the only picture I can show you today as I am a bit technically challenged.

To take the photo, I have just turned out all the lights in the bedroom using the fancy electronic switches and I have just had another OMG moment. My bathroom is next to the bedroom and I have had a shower in there this evening. I have just noticed that it has a clear glass floor to ceiling- wall to wall window as its wall which is right opposite my outside window. I thought it was a mirror, but with the light inside…This is getting more like Amsterdam or Bangkok every second.

Final sustenance of the day in the form of a Chicken Murgh Curry (very hot and spicy) and Naan, washed down…

Heavy day tomorrow as I want to see some of Delhi’s main sights.

Sun down, moving on up

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Well I have reached the end of the opening part of the tour. Fort Kochi and Kerala has given me a little sense of India and I believe prepared me a sample for what I am about to receive in the North.

Breakfast chick pea curry and then an iPad solution session with the French. Papa has this time brought with him english speaking daughter ‘Nicole’. In short I fixed their problem and they were happy. I think I will have a Rue named in my honour. Funny how WiFi is as critical as Water nowadays.

The last day started with a complimentary foot massage at the Hotel’s Spa which had the sensation of basting a couple of chicken wings. It was good, but I did get the feeling that moving into the sun would produce a bit of Kerala Fried Chicken. However as this was the last day of the chill phase I thought I should invest in the whole chicken for a bit of TLC rather than KFC. I returned to get my body and head oiled, slapped and prodded. As the masseur got to my neck and shoulders I knew we would find it hard to ‘relax’ my muscles. I could sense the fingers clenching to knuckles as he tried to soften up my shoulders. He must have been thinking to himself that it may be the first day of spring, but this ain’t no spring chicken, more like a frozen Chicken that has been in the freezer for 2 years. Admit it we all have one of those tucked away somewhere. He did his best, but I did see defeat in his face as I bid him farewell and stepped out of his serene studio. His caution was not to do anything strenuous for a bit…fat chance of that I thought.

It was early afternoon by now and the temperature was up a notch. Time to update my blog and take a few of the final pictures like my room and the door etc. As I started to type I heard a soft thud a bit like someone punching a feather pillow. I knew what it was, the Indian Navy gun next door? The thud rang out half a dozen times. Well at least I had been part of it. A bit wrong. The tiny thud was from a patrol ship miles offshore. The responding salute went back…BOOM!!!! the whole Hotel shook, the floor, the windows, vases moved. I ran out onto the landing to get a better view. Another 5 shells were let off in quick succession. Each producing a plume of thick white smoke. Absolutely deafening. Now I think that would draw more attention to their rickety boundary line on a Saturday instead of the soldier with a whistle and a stick. Downside is it would probably leave more Flip Flops on the beach.

A late snack for lunch, a beer and lounging round the pool finished my afternoon off and I went back to my room to perch myself on the balcony for a last photo of the sun going down.

Dinner entree wasn’t anything special today. I ordered some kind type of whole spicy fish (Karimeen Pollichathu) wrapped in a banana leave and a couple of chapati’s. I thought that it was going to be the same fish steak that Chef had made on the first evening, but that’s not what I ordered. The restaurant was fairly empty tonight as a lot of guests had left, so the bengali waiter Suresh tried in vain to give me an unprompted précis of 300 years of Indian struggle against the British, classroom style. As a Bengali, who is still picking up his english some words didn’t translate, but in my usual politeness I nodded, agreed and sighed showing support. At the end of his story he caught me out a treat…”So what do you think?” Luckily my response was interrupted by some incoming guests just as I was going to talk some bull’ over previous generations and social classes. He didn’t come back except to bring my meal.

As for my fish, no blame here as the same thing has happened at home in our restaurants, but some fish go through ten rounds before they arrive in the kitchen and this one had broken bones all over the place (no pun intended).

Thinking of yesterday’s trip to the Backwater, I couldn’t leave without having another pudding dish called Maduram Chertha Nentharakaya. Which was grilled Banana with a rich sweet coconut, cardamon and syrup gritty topping with Ice Cream. I had room for two puddings but etiquette kicked in.

So I travel up North to Delhi tomorrow and the next chapter.

Serenity in Vaikom

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I played my daily anthem and there was a bit of a spring in my step today, so it was time to do something…well, quite relaxing. I was going to head out to the Kerala Backwaters.

I went local with the breakfast choice on the morning of a steamed rice cake and a spicy vegetable stew. Very warming and I am finding that the spice is helping the digestion. However, my bunker supply of imodium is always at hand in case I step too far off patch.

With my enthusiasm, I was also up nice and early which was a real first and I was the only one taking breakfast. Two birds landed on the fence one after the other and I wanted to just share it with someone. The first I think was a Kingfisher, with a very large head and beak out of proportion with the rest of its body. The striking thing was the colour. It was mostly turquoise and with a dark brown head.

That was replaced by a Woodpecker type bird, that was the spitting image of the old Woody Woodpecker cartoon we used to watch, with a bright red head with a mohecan spike and slender neck. This is the way to drink your coffee each morning. Well that’s all folks..for breakfast.

Back to Backwater.

After the heavy rainfall the previous night, the air had cleared but the sun was even more intense. My taxi came and I asked if it had ‘AC’. A popular phrase out here for air conditioning. “No” so I just wound down the window and added natures answer. I just need the car to keep on moving, which for the first 10 minutes it flew. They are really ace combat drivers. Driving must be an issue in India even for the locals. A sign at one traffic island just said “follow the rules” as my taxi cut up the on coming bus. The buildings along the sides of the roads have a certain charm about them just because they are shabby and all different with them all using the roof and wall space for massive advert hoardings. The Bollywood stars, especially the unbelievably beautiful girls, endorse everything. I thought the currentness of one Ad was outstanding, a big board with a smiling face of Pope Francis promoting a brand of tea with a strap line of ‘Chai for me Argentina’.

We were soon into the heavy traffic of Ernakulam. My driver wasn’t weaving, but everything else was. You must hear horns 10 times a second, but they keep their cool and it is effective. The drivers have one sign for distain and that is a quick twist back and forth of the hand and a simple look. No rants and in seconds ‘it’s been said’ and the disagreement is over. Although it took an age to get to Vaikom just looking out the window at all of the different things made the humid heat bearable and the time flew. There was a constant set of smells in the air of sweet, fish and not so savoury aromas.

At Vaikom we met the Guide outside a number of shacks by the side of the road. The driver and guide exchanged a rendezvous (dropped some french in as it is in my head for something later) and I was then welcomed formally by my Guide, Priam. Well I think that was his name because after the fourth time of telling me I thought it rude not to be getting it. He got my name in one, so I felt like a right charlie. Actually a wrong David.

The Kerala Backwaters are natural inlets of water, rivers, lagoons and alike that have been further carved man-made with meandering shallow canals. “It’s supposed to be like Venice!” said Priam as we got into the boat. The boat was like a large kayak and I was invited to sit in the middle. A note for my Sister’s side of the family (aka The Smith’s) I would like to note that, Yes, the thought of me making a right mess of managing a canoe on the River Wye last year was forefront in my mind. But for the record, I did attempt to catch Deb’s sister Karen.

Anyway, I got in and sat squarely in the middle with Priam facing me on the next cross timber. A boatman was introduced to me, a guy who I would say was in his 60’s. He was going to be punting for us. Most events that start in life, when you say let’s go, begin with some kind of noise. This was as serene a launch as anything I have ever felt and we were off. Straightaway, I was chilled. I promised to improve my vocabulary, but honesty just being on the water and no other boats in a heavenly place was well…

“Kerala stands for Coconut Land” Priam said. And “This is God’s own country. This part is my village”. My link to the last blog was complete. Priam asked me if I was having a good stay and was very inquisitive of the detail behind my answers. He explained that it was very important that we get this right for me, for the Tourist. “We have a saying. Look after the tourists like you would look after your family”. They do the family and tourist bit really fine.

Priam explained how the backwater and the villages had came about and we cut across the main river and into the first backwater canal, a width of say 12 feet. Everyone we saw smiled and waved, as we punted our way through the leafy waterway. He wasn’t pushy but every now and then he’d point at something like a fruit or a tree and say what is was and explain how it was used. He pointed to some Pods in a tree and said “Cocoa…Cadbury’s”. You would think that it would not be interesting, but because it was so peaceful, I was hanging on ever word. He pointed to a Cashew fruit and if as on cue it dropped into the water by the side of the boat. It looked like a gourd, but the big fruit was like a bitter sweet melon and attached to it was the shell of the curly cashew that we all know. He said that children eat these, pointing to the fruit. Simple pleasures eh?

We were approaching an area of the narrow water where there were a hoard of people splashing around in the water, by decorated poles. He guided me that I could take photo’s then a quick exchange with the Boatman he said “sorry it’s a tribute to some who has died”. He didn’t have to say any more my camera was switched off. I could see he was pleased that we shared the same respect. “This is the 14th and the last day of mourning and they are washing off evil. They will have a celebration now”. And so they were within yards there were brightly colour people chatting and smiling and kids running back and forth. It was a bit like an Irish wake, but I couldn’t see anything that resembled alcohol.

The boatman pointed to a snake by the side of the boat. But I was assured it wasn’t poisonous. At this point if Sue had been here we would have been talking about flights home.

A hundred yards on a man in an orange loin cloth was swimming in the water with two bamboo sticks. Fishing in one of the backwater ways. They also use chinese fishing nets too. Priam said that nobody buys fish in his village as they just catch it from the passing waterway.

We pulled into the side and got off by a track leading up to an old grey concrete house. He said he would show me some spices. When I had my tuk tuk tour earlier in the week I knew that meant “I want to sell you something”. This wasn’t. He and the Boatman slowly walked from bush to bush up the track, zig zagging from one to another. Everything was under the shade of Coconut Palms, everywhere you looked. All their tropic gatherings are used. He pointed to two Palms opposite each other. This one is for Oil and this one is for just drinking. He explained the simple process of how they did it.

There was a great range of spices that he would pick off leaves, flowers or berries and hand them to me. He would suggest lesser known ones as used as imitation for something else. All as nature had intended, the lemon leaves gave a zesty smell, the curry leaves were aromatic, red pepper seeds were creeping up a trunk and look exactly as you would see them in a mill. A lot of the leaves looked to me like the privet that used to be so prevalent as a kid, but each smelled exactly as the guide and boatman said. Along the way he had pointed to a large nut a few times. I think it was the Areca nut (I had to search on the internet when I got back) While we were in the village he played out how the nut was used. He picked a large dark green leaf off a tree and said the nut would be mashed into the middle of the leave and then folded into a small package that you could pop into your mouth to chew. “It goes red in your mouth” he said and then tapping his temple “it goes here”. It was a local chew like cannabis or as they prepare it over here something akin to ‘Bhang’.

We moved down the water to the next stopping point, where a lady was spinning coconut strands into rope. It was an art and it wasn’t a side show. This is exactly what she did in the village.

We made a turn in the boat at a small cutting and then started to drift back using the slow current. It was a delightful trip which makes you think how serene and pleasurable life can be. Lots of sensory pleasures.

Off in the taxi we were back to the hotel in half the time, basically as he was driving twice as fast and using his horn even more so.

By this time I was parched and hungry so a cold beer, samosas and pakora hit the spot. Then off to relax by the pool, not forgetting my child training of 60 minutes wait before swimming.

While I was out Chef had been buying the fresh fish for a special meal that night. It turned out to be a nicely presented plate with a steak of King Fish and a whole Pomfret Fish done tandoori style. A pudding creation of Bananas, Tangerines, sweet fried noodles, vanilla ice cream and a butterscotch drizzle finished me off.

A relaxed evening and ended off with a couple of beers with two nice people. Mona and her son Cosmo from Finland.

As I left for bed, Chef who was also manning the night desk, asked for my help with a French guest who was trying to get his wifi to work on his iPad. Impromptu francais est tres difficile et le iPad ne travaille pas (It didn’t work). Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

Chillin’

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It has been an easy day today, just chillin’, watching people and observing all the things you would like to do if the world around you could just stop. But let’s start from the top.

Last night the mosquitoes created havoc with a counter attack which as a strategy man I have to admit was pretty stealthy.

The odds of a Mosquito being able to defeat me weight for weight are 36.2 million to one.  The odds of winning the jackpot of the UK national lottery are 14 million to one.  I was bitten 10 times last night.  My 4 poster netting turned into a UFC cage and I was duly bloodied.  I will have the last laugh.  At least I now have more faith in winning the lottery.  Mike Farrell note, some day your syndicate will win.  (Everyone note; Mike and his colleagues have stayed faithful for almost 20 years without a win).  So I now have faith that you will win someday… or, I will guarantee that you will be bitten by a mosquito.

Lizard… lizard… lizard…yes there was a Gekko in the room, but it kept its head down.  At only 24,000 to one in his favour against a mosquito he bottled it, it seems.

After an easy breakfast I had a stroll on the beach to watch the local fisherman.  They fish for Shrimp and small Catfish in the shallows with large circular nets that they toss like a rotating shot-putter over the shoulder and out about 20 feet in front of them.  A jerk technique for dragging them in pulls the weights together.  The prize stored in a plastic bag hanging over the rickety fence.  Not sure how effective it is, but they do come back day after day.  There are a couple of kayak-type boats dropping larger drag nets which they paddle frantically and then draw together.  It is a pace of life you could get used to watching.

The ferrel dogs trot back and forth into the surf and surprisingly come back with fish.  I am not sure how they do it.  The eagles also circle around and drop into the sea for the same catch.

Cows are wandering across the beach and into the surf.

Looking at the beach after the sunday gathering I couldn’t help noticing the debris that gets left behind, which got me into ‘business’ mode.  Why does this happen and how could you fix this?  You need to explore all the angles and I guess that I had time and an intrigue to have a go.  If anyone knows anybody at the Indian Tourist Office, send them my blog address.

Let me position this.  A small idyllic beach of beautiful sand, that is left with piles of litter and stuff after the weekend socialising.  In the UK there would be letters to the Council, headlines in The Sun and a Greenpeace ship anchored 250 yards off shore.

A bit of an odd make up of the litter.  This is where I become a gifted amateur quantity surveyor or a would be Bin man.  For my lovely colleagues in the USA…Trash Man.

I would say 30% Flip Flops, 30% Water Bottles, 30% Tropical eco waste (coconuts etc) and the rest in general litter.

Flip Flops ? Yes there were hundreds of shoes.  Now if I had forgotten my loved one had gone swimming and met Davy Jones,  I would have at least have taken their shoes home as a memory of them.

Coconuts and stuff, that’s life, so we need to work on the 40%.  We do litter in the UK but have the council police to mope up after the crowds have gone, so I am not suggesting we have a standard to copy.  Is it up to the bottlers and drink manufacturers to do their bit?  The interesting thing is that cultures, values and morality is a strong part of India, but not this bit.   So is it just about educating but is it a priority?  Maybe you get litter on the moral agenda? Or you just have the litter swept up Mayor Guiliano style and then a zero tolerance until you get it right?  Does this sound like a rant?  I promised dunmoanin and will try my best…

Here’s my solution.  When you buy a bottle of water, you have to give your Flip Flops as a deposit on the bottle.  You then offer a full refund on the drink purchased if you find a Coconut.  The Local Authority buys the Cocunuts back and grinds them down in to make eco-chic waste bins that can be placed on the beach.  Oh and for the remaining homeless Flip Flops, teach people to swim.

Well time for lunch.  Fried Tiger Prawns, Chapatis and an Onion sauce, washed down with an Indian Tonic Water.  I was topping up on the fabled quinnine.

Off for a swim and bumped in a couple and their young daughter Leela in the swimming pool and exchanged stories of Devon, as they came from Bideford, and Cornwall.   I have started talking to strangers!  Nice people with similar values.

I had been chatting over the last couple of days with the Hotel Manager, Ray Abernathy, on how Twitter and Blogging works.  I was also telling him of my night time bites.  Shortly after a big bowl of smoking Frankincense was being led through my room to ward off all of the evils of the mosquitoes.

Now, think back two days on my blog when I talked of my ‘Mary and Joseph’ moment in Oslo and recently at Heathrow.  It’s starting to all come together around me.  Sunday I was offered Gold at a shop in Kochi, next Ray introduced me to the Hotel Chef Murgh (bit like Myrrh ??) last night who prepared me a special Keralian dish and now Frankincense.  Together with the 3 cows wandering on the beach and my stomach, despite spicy food, is very Stable!!!  And top this, they call Kerala ‘God’s Country’.  Summary, No room at the Inn, Stable, Frankincense, Gold and Myrrh and 3 Cows ?…

Sorry mind wandered, back to the close of the chillin’ day.  Chef Murgh produced a lovely big platter of Seafood, prepare was  a medium hot Kerala marinade.  Squid, Tiger Prawns, two types of fish and Crab.  The dish was really awesome.

As I turned in the rain started pouring, and as I started to dose there was the most almighty (see there we go again) crash of thunder and a flash of lightning.   They do do tropical storms really well.

Tuk Tuk

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I’m writing this for my first full day here at Fort Kochi, which also happens to be St Patrick’s Day.  A little coincidence that the India and Irish flags have the same colours and that they both start with the letter ‘i’.  It’s sunday today and the bustle of Formula 1 on the roads has tempered to more like a rush hour in a Cotswold village.  Overnight was a great sleep, the mosquitos did not come thanks to my bath in repellant and the 360 degree netting.

Leisurely breakfast and for all purposes a British Sunday morning was with me.  I opened up the iPad Papers and sat back looking out at the beach while sipping my coffee.  The beach was more popular today with the locals using their day of rest to socialise.  It is funny how simple things please people.  A man who I would say was about 50, more slimline than me, is doing handsprings across the sand.  I don’t think I could do that these days, but he had more grey hair than me so I guess that makes us even.  But I had to start experiencing the local stuff soon, so a constitutional walk across the sands sounded good, with or without gymnastics.

The hotel is a secure area, so I headed out through the front gate as I couldn’t see the back gate.  Actually I could see it, but it looked like no one had trodden that way before.  I always think if you can’t see the path grounded by years of trailblazers then avoid being a Livingstone.  How many countless missionaries have met their maker after the short conversation…”Livingstone I presume?”, response “nope!”.

Like passing some kind of mission impossible type sensor, I triggered a hail of “hey Taxi?”  A couple of Tuk Tuk drivers lay waiting in anticipation for something to make their morning worthwhile.  “No I am just walking to the beach”.  He seemed bemused with my argument that I wanted to get to the beach, as I was already there so must have that ticked off my do list.  I kept walking but he continued to give me his tourist offer.  I said maybe later, but he kept talking as he was now looking at me stepping onto the sand. “Hey, I’m Noshad!, what’s your name?”.  Thinking quick I shouted back “Eric”.  His reply, “David?, OK David, you come for tour when you have finished on the beach!”  How did that happen I thought.

Lots of people are just strolling too, but being a six foot white man they do tend to stare at you with an inquisitive look.  I wasn’t even wearing a pith helmet.

I hadn’t walked for 15 minutes when Noshad appeared again to ask if I was ready.  I rebuffed him again and said that I just wanted to walk.  “Ok, I will see you after the fishing nets” he said and pointed across the next large section of beach to the Chinese Fishing Nets.  These  Nets are used as huge scoops on a sort of cantilever to catch fish.  Also used to catch free Tourist labour to do it for them at a fee to the tourist.  Well this is entrepreneurial India.  I carried on and just 100 yards from the Nets up pops…we agreed the price on an hourly rate and he was going to show me a few of the sites and various faith temples.  Oh and a few of the shops that pay him to bring in tourists.  I had time so agreed and what he didn’t know was that I just wanted to ride in a Tuk Tuk.

So we did the various churches and temples, a washing area, I think he called it a ‘Dobby’  which was interesting and real.  Concrete cubicles of people rubbing clothes on stone and then organised washing lines and Ironing.  Some of the irons were huge charcoal filled and others were heavy electrical ones I imagine that Edison would have knocked up in his laboratory.  Noshad said that all of the washing from Hotels, Wealthy People and Hospitals comes into the Dobby.  I had thoughts of my M&S briefs wafting in the breeze.

We moved onto a range of shops, with some ‘historical interest’, not shopping, important areas!  After one he asked whether I like shopping.  “I hate shopping!, no more shops”.  It used to drive Sue mad that I would walk into a shop and select things immediately…”I’m done!”

Noshad asked me for a favour, “could you do one more please, as I need the point”.  At least there was a bit of honesty.  I did it, looked, discussed the finer details of how they could ship to the UK for free and avoid Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs and then Noshad dropped me back at the Hotel.  90 mins of Tuk Tuk for 200 Rupees, 3 pounds.  By now  the midday sun, 30 degrees C and time for a well shopped Beer.

Hot spicy grilled fish for lunch with chapatis.  It is funny that the hotter the weather the appetite for hot things does not wane.

After lunch and a semi-siesta, I watched the beach fill up with more and more locals.  Mostly they were watching nothing but the sea and talking but that’s what friends and families do here.  The kite seller is doing well with his wares and the breeze is pleasantly up.  The large tree by the side of my balcony terrace is a graveyard for kites that he had sold only 100 yards from it.  Some kind of eagles are gliding around competing with their imitators.  The people suddenly lined up across the beach by the wash of the waves as we approached 6pm ish.  The sun was dropping and it was starting to glisten across the water.  Absolutely gorgeous.  I have seen these sunsets before when in the Maldives and I had half a mind to go get my camera, but spoilt I thought, I will be sitting here again watching this tomorrow.

The evening ended with the band playing a mixed medley of old rock classics while I downed another spicy fish dish from Kerala.  A german tourist, a wedding photographer by trade, struck up a conversation and I sensed he had travelled.  When he said that he had just come from Rajasthan and was travelling on to Oman before heading back home I could tell that he was really thoughtful in where he picked.  And for photography he said, I look for a long while then take 2 photo’s not hundreds.  I didn’t have the heart to tell him that I had my setting on 4 frames a second.  We talked Camera’s and thank god, he said I had picked a good one in an Olympus.  That could have really miffed me 1 day into my 3 and a half month trip.

A few more big ships passed in and out of the estuary and that was it for me.  I also had my facetime calls planned for Jon and Tom.  Duly done we caught up.

I spied a Gekko on the wall in my room and thought someone had sent another mosquito catcher to help me through the night.  Let’s hope he has an appetite and good night vision.

All kinds of kinds

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The morning sunshine had already appeared as we descended into Kochi Airport.  The humid heat hit me like a vindaloo as I stepped off the plane, but it was nice to walk just 50 yards from the plane to the arrivals hall.  Heathrow take note, I was in a taxi within 10 minutes of landing after having pulled my luggage from the belt.

Kochi is a big city, but characteristic of a relaxed India that I think I am going to find all around here.  I think I used the word ‘relaxed’ too liberally there, let’s get straight into the taxi ride.

Can I first apologise to the expert drivers of the Stratford Road in Birmingham for my jaundice view of driving standards and can I also pay tribute to the Spitfire pilots of the Battle of Britain who kept the skies clear of evil, especially the ones who made it home.

How long will the journey take I asked the Prepayment Taxi clerk at the airport.  “About 45 minutes” said the clerk, but also rotated their head back and forth like it was on a spring.  Not sure if that was a nod or a shake of the head, but they were smiling which I guess was a positive sign.  The driver was 20 feet away and ready.  Not much English spoken but I showed him the address, packed my bags into the Corsa-sized limo and we were off.  3 things I noted.

  1. He advised me to put my seat belt on,
  2. He had a bonsai like plant growing on his dash board on what looked like a make shift oasis, and
  3. There were two brass shrines gods and a picture of a lady behind the ‘desert island’.  I was tempted by the usual taxi chat, but I think he may have been offended if I had asked if the Old Lady was his mother and it turned out to be his betrothed wife.  I am learning…just keep your mouth shut.

It was number 1 where I would like to focus.  What goes on tour stays on tour?… No, if there is a road to perdition I think the Kochi Airport Road is it.  In the next 2 hours, we had about 50 near-misses and I think I saw about 2000 road violations that would have been straight 10-pointers at home.  Not sure if cows and goats can be indicted, but they weren’t blameless either.  There must have been some kind of order, like, generally they do drive on the left, press your horn when you are coming through, avoid hitting something and importantly don’t look back!  We had gone 50 yards before my Sphincter had closed deep-dive water tight.  My driver on a narrow road beeped and overtook 2 cars and a lorry, while the lorry was moving past a motor cycle.  With a car coming in the other direction my man looked confident, then BEEP BEEP, bandit at 5 o’clock overtook us and all other things.  Phew, I thought, you don’t see many of those events thank god.  Now play that out for 2 hours across the main ways and side roads into Fort Kochi.  My acknowledgement of the WW2 fighter pilots in the way that you need to be able to attack but avoid at all  times.  This taxi cost about £11.50, so I gave him a tip of £4 and wished him good luck on the way back.

Checked-in at the Old Lighthouse Bristow Hotel, a colonial style building backing onto the beach and the Indian Ocean.  A nice welcome from the staff and into my stately room.  It really is an awesome room with a large dining balcony.  The dark wooden polished floors reminded me of the Maldives.  Particularly the part when I slipped on the shiny stairs and almost broke my knee.  How Sue and I laughed about that one.

The room has a large 4 poster bed with mosquito net curtains to all sides, not on top though, so mosquitos cant be that clever.  We’ll see.

I was jet lagged so had an afternoon siesta.  By the time I made lunch, everyone had left the hacienda type restaurant, but the staff just circled to make me feel important.  Chef just asked me what I would like and he would do it, so ended up with a Kerala Fish dish and a curry.  The Fish, I will get a name for it, was in heavy hot spices wrapped in banana leaves and then grilled and he prepared a Fish Curry too, to give me a bit of ‘gravy’.  All served with Lemon rice and washed down with a Kingfisher beer.  There was a nice breeze coming off the sea, which reduced the heat somewhat.  Excellent food and a nice way to see saturday afternoon out.

This bit of Kochi is the west side of the main estuary.  Big ships roll in and out every hour or so.  The small beach stretches from a rocky pier on one side to a rickety fence on the left.  The fence recently put there by the India Navy and with it commandeering the coastline going down towards the tip of India.  This is modern day stuff.  3 naval staff observe the dotted line and nobody is allow to pass that bit of the Defence Land or Sea.  But you know, it isn’t off putting at all.  the waiter said that they tested their guns last week, so if I am lucky…surprisingly the beach is littered with plastic bottles, some from the oceans churn some from the locals, but it doesn’t detract from this being a tropical idyllic place and it is really is relaxing and it’s different.  Fishermen are casting their big nets into the shallows, locals are walking up and down the surf and large Gekko’s are posing on the low perimeter wall of the hotel.  Leafy trees cast a shadow over the terraces of the hotel.

Dinner was another Fish Curry.  Every 5 minutes I glanced at the Villa v QPR score.  I knew Jon and Tom were in the stands and it was a sort of way of being part of it.  A band played 80’s music on the hotel terrace and the night closed in.  Day One in Kerala over.

The former-Colonies tour

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Well here we are. Started on the Virgin flight to Mumbai. After getting set after drinks, takeoff, ping seatbelts off, I played a song that Jon had recommended to me by Ellis Paul “The world ain’t slowin’ down”. 3 times. It brought a tear to my eye. You are also a bit more melancholic when you have had four glasses of champagne. My boys have been very supportive in the whole sabbatical process.

Well it’s not a Harley, but it may well be a bit of a mid-life thing. Not a ‘crisis’ though. I am blessed to have my health and a bit privileged that I can make this choice or at least take my chance at this time of life. Let us see where my direction takes me. Is a beard with beads too adventurous?

So how did it get to this point. Weeks of cogitation with Lonely Planet guides, endless route and accommodation options and flights, weighing up the flexibility, listening to everyone and thinking if this was the right thing to do. Schedule is set, although a bit like cornflour in water, it looks all solid and then you stir it up and it’s all fluid again.

Highly calculated and planned? Not quite. I checked into my cheapy Heathrow hotel thursday night and they were not expecting me until 14 June. Now I could have blamed it on systems, other people, the international date line, but no I take it fully on the chin, it was me. But forgive me for this one as this is the day that I next see Jon and Tom when they join me in Nashville, so it’s the most important date in my head. Thanks to the hotels flexibility to accommodate me. My cheap option was well…wasn’t.

Just remembered another one of my past business travels. The Mary and Joseph thing has happened to me many times before. Once in Oslo where the mathematically likelihood of overbooking happened. I arrived late and with nowhere else to go (remember Richard Gere in Officer and a Gentleman?) they came up with a solution. The Hotel wheeled a makeshift bed into a conference room, but the guidance was that to be sure that I got up and out by 7.30am before the delegates arrived. Upside, a plentiful supply of mints and sparkling water. Downside, I have never had so many panic wake up experiences in one night.

Back to the plane…Looking out the plane window I saw France bathed in snow. I could be tempted to make some of sort of Anglophile comments about the French like Trafalgar, Agincourt etc but I won’t. Today I love everything and everyone ou j’adore la monde (see Mr Cherry, 40 years on and I haven’t forgotten basic franglaise)

My cool headphones worked a treat for noise, but with my polite behaviour it was also a distraction, as you had to keep looking to see if the airline staff were trying to speak with you. I care about being helpful. Years of teaching from Sue. The boys think that I need a hearing aid anyway so it won’t be news to them. I don’t need an aid I just have problems with the sound range from 300 to 3,400 hertz (the human voice, but give me a bat and…).

Nice flight crew today. Richard B please note, my bitterness for losing my 91,286 airmiles is over. You really do do the airline stuff exceptionally well. And the staff were really, well, cute. The glass of Argentinian red was delightful and it was plucked with care from the Upper Class bin even though I was one seat back. Premium was just dandy. The soft foot rest really comfortable too. The flight was empty and you really feel that you were being overly pampered. You know that feeling like it’s your birthday and you think that everyone knows it’s your birthday and say nice things?

Caught up on a bit of BBC News on my iPad. “Samsung launch and demonstrate Galaxy’s ability to take two photo’s simultaneously”. What’s new there ? I have been capturing the photo I want to take and the one I actually got for years! “Rail workers find Black Death pit”. I didn’t know it was lost, as the Eurostar arrives in Brussels every hour. “Parties to deliver on press regulation”. ‘Delivery’ that would be nice from any political party.

Taylor Swift in my ears and time to let my mind wander and mind mapping on a random subject while sipping the rest of the red wine.

Into and out of Mumbai Airport. I thought that at 2am that I would be the guy they named the Lonely Planet guides after. How mistaken I was. Quiet at 2am, terminal full and jostling at 4am. Pleasant little domestic terminal. In my rush to get the Mosquito Deet applied I sampled its taste. It numbs your lips, I will not do that again.

I’ll leave the taxi ride from Kochi Airport to my next posting…I am still trying to find words.