There is an interesting and stark difference between my stay in Kyoto and the stay in Beijing. The Beijing Prime Hotel is a large building with nice furnishings, a big open style reception with marble flooring and a sweeping staircase that goes up to the first floor mezzanine. It is by far the most glamorous of the Hotels that I have stayed in on my trip to Asia, so far. The bedroom is large and well kept with the study desk and armchair that I would find in some of the better hotels in the USA. My feeling after two days is that it isn’t really catering for the non-Chinese tourist even though they have every facility and a good concierge that I should want. The issue I have today is that although they, like the Japanese, revere (yes, I have swallowed a dictionary for breakfast) Koi, the staff are very ‘goldfish’ like in their customer service. No one has been rude and no one has been discourteous but there is something missing in the way they look after you. Let me explain. From what I have noticed I am one of a few English speaking people in the Hotel. Each day I have either had a Coffee or a Beer in the open cafe. Yesterday I ventured in 3 times. I have been served by the same staff. When I arrive to the soft lounge seats, they don’t wait for me to sit down, they look me in the eye and have their order pads ready and stand very close until I make a decision. Goldfish? You know what they say that Goldfish lose their memory every 4 seconds. I seem to be a brand new stranger each time I arrive into their bowl. When I ask for the Bill and put it to my room, each time it is double checked and I am asked to wait for its approval before I leave. Smiles as they do it, but a mistrust that makes you feel uneasy. In the restaurant last night, I was asked to confirm my first name on the bill before I left. It is though they have had a number of running customers. And for service, they don’t watch you they watch the chinaware. Yesterday’s buffet breakfast, I gathered some cereal from the large food area which has a great selection of hot and cold foods and a glass of orange juice. A waiter came with a tray of Coffee, Cup and Saucer and poured a cup. There were about 30 tables of 4 settings in the non smoking area and I was one of about 10 people in for breakfast. I finished the cereal and went off for the main event. When I arrived back, my table had been cleaned of everything! I had signed for my breakfast in a nano second and was expecting someone to come again for another signature. The same waiter came up to me again, “Coffee?” as if I had just arrived. Now do I go back for an Orange Juice ?…hmm.
Before I venture out, I look out of my big window and take a bird’s eye view of the main crossroad. I was trying figure out the purpose of the Pedestrain Red and Green lights. At some there is even a count down on Green of about 50 seconds. Looking down, the vast majority of pedestrians are skipping the crossing on ‘red’ pausing every now and then to cross 6 lanes of traffic. After the day out today I can see why they do this. When the lights turn to ‘green’ for pedestrians, the cars just keep coming and do not stop if you walking on the black and white foot markings.
I decide that I am not up for my walk out just yet and go for a swim instead.
The pool on the fourth floor was freezing, although the sign said it would be 26C and an outside of 28C. I wrinkled quickly and got under a hot shower as soon as I could.
Eventually I head out and aim for a small hill and park just to the north of the Forbideen City, Jingshan Park. I could just about see it to the far left from my bedroom. Beijing is a very flat city. You could liken it to Bournemouth. Jingshan was created about 600 years ago when the Forbidden City’s moats and canals were being dug out. They piled it up and created a number of places of worship. Even though it is only about 100 metres high, it is a great vantage point to get 360 degree views of Beijing, especially a roof tops view of the Forbidden City. It was easy going and a pleasing start to the day. The sun was up and the sky was blue.
As the roads are basically a grid system, I kept my bearings based on the Forbidden Cities northern gate and continued to the next local Palace. This was the Emperors Winter Palace which was also linked to a big Park and Boating lake called Beihai. The Palace rooms are filled with Buddhist statues linked to the Tibetan Order, which when you consider their age are in amazing condition. The lakes and parkland are a nice stroll too.
I stop off in the Park for a small bite to eat. Not too much to write home about as the picture in the menu shows a self standing pile of Chicken, but I had something which tasted like Duck and was obviously having a swimming lesson in some soup.
Half replenished I got my bearings. As all my electronic equipment has been locked away in my Hotel Room, I was using my trusted walkers compass. I bought it about 15 years for a trip to the Lake District and had never used it. It proved to be a god send. Although talking to a Chinese-Canadian couple later on and he pressed a button on his watch and it showed him ‘North’. I actually knew where I was and the route I would take to my next stop off, Tian’an men Square.
Working a route at the rear of the Forbidden City, there was a procession of hundreds of people walking for the same purpose. Still littered by people wanting to sell you things, and with the added pain of call girls who try to talk to you to ‘learn English!’ One actually swore at me when I wouldn’t speak to her, and I could tell by the diction that she did actually need a lesson or two.
As you pass through the final gate of the ‘City, you hit your first glimpse of Tian’an men Square. It really is massive. You can easily believe that Mao did a military dress for 1 Million Soldiers in the square. Before moving through an underpass to get to the main square across a busy multi lane road, you look back over your shoulder at large portrait of Mao Zedong. He was the creator of the New China and he has left an amazing starting point for China. It is different out here but to control and set direction for 1.3 Billion people you do need to have someone with clear principles and charisma. To put into context this many people, hand in hand, they would be able to wrap around the world 45 times.
It is a general meeting place for thousands of people, but with such a huge space it always looks empty. The flags were flying high with the wind and it was a very patriotic occasion. At the North end of the Square, a large flag pole was chained off and had sentries guarding it. At Sundown, they have a ceremony of taking down the flag. The Crowds gathered including the call-girls who had less walking to do to spot the Europeans. It was a fairly long wait. I approached one on the soldiers to see what time it was expected. He understood, but just couldn’t find the words. I think it finally arrived at about 6.15pm. Just 45 minutes prior to this a woman broke from the crowds and crouched in a bow toward the flag pole, all the guards ran to protect the square and she was led off to a Police Truck. They got back to their starting positions in a very dignified manner, with military precision.
When the time came and the sun was giving the buildings to the West a clear silhouette, the traffic of the Main Road was stopped and a squad of about 30 soldiers marched in military dress outfits across from the building with Mao’s portrait, straight to the flag courtyard and the Flag started lowering. It wasn’t as lavish and arousing as the India-Pakistan border opening and closing but it was equally passionate in its own way.
Well that was Tian’an men Square, tick. I got my general bearings and headed in an L shape down the main road and then left back up to the Hotel. I could have got a Taxi but it would have been an extra bit of hassle. I’m certainly losing a bit of weight with my walking and probably, you might be surprised, by eating less and I am now 2 pounds above my ideal weight.
In the Hotel and a quick Buffet meal which was extremely disappointing. Not sure if its a timing of meals thing or time to move on thing, but the food isn’t exciting me like I had expected.
Dave's Sabbatical 